Sloe Gin - Plumb Buttress

[Turboman]

Anyone got the beta on Slow Gin crux, the overhang above the big break? Had a look a look this weekend. From the big break I could get RH on a large slopey pinch on the lip and left hand on crappy sidepull /undercut. The next move seems to be an all out dyno to slot/pocket. Am I missing something? Rest of the route is quality.

 

[kc]

That sounds about right. It's quite tricky to find the correct position on the ledge to plant your feet prior to take off!
Have you sussed out your options for the finish yet?
There is also a link into the spider post crux as an option too.

 

[Neil F]

I seem to remember a heel hook in a weird dish feature in the big break, and a lot of body tension...

....but it was a very long time ago (and I am a lanky git).

Let us know how your rematch goes.

Neil

 

[Turboman]

That's a shame, I was hoping I'd missed something obvious. I was going with RH to pocket.
Sounds like the footless swing is inevitable. As for topout, we just lowered of the thread where it joins Sirplum - makes it easy for stripping. Will report back if I get up there again.

 

[kc]

Your no Dwarf Simon so i'm sure you will have no problems.

I can't remember which hand I went with, may have been the left. Lowering off the Sirplum thread Was the intention of the sport version but I am sure there would be some that feel uncomfortable with lowering off a cluster of blocks. They could down climb a few feet and retreat from the last bolt that was positioned out of reach from the plodding hoards, or take some gear for the top.

Linking into the original 2nd pitch in one push would create far too much rope drag.

The rock and gear up there is far too adventurous for your average sport climbing outing.

 

[grimer]

There's a video somewhere of Gaz Parry doing it.

 

[kc]

Thats the route to the left.

https://vimeo.com/5619906

 

[grimer]

Ah yes

 

[andi_e]

There's a video somewhere of Gaz Parry doing it.

That's a sentence nobody wanted to hear.

 

[Turboman]

A friend went on it last night and apparently did the move static to the pocket. Key was hooking like hell with the left foot in break and really rolling the right shoulder before going for pocket. Seems like I need to go up there again a try a bit harder.

You're right Kris it's a touch adventurous. Warming up on Massive 6c puts you in the right frame of mind....

 

[Neil F]

....Key was hooking like hell with the left foot in break and really rolling the right shoulder before going for pocket....

Perhaps my memory isn't completely beffudled after all.

Now, where did those 28 years go? :'(

Neil