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Good interview. Interesting that he considers the Boss 8B and Smiling 8B+ - new hardest grit boulder problem? Guess it depends on how hard Voyager sit is.

“I actually never watched the video of Ty after I touched the holds, it's just not useful – kinda like watching a Blue Peter presenter saying "here's one I made earlier" while pulling a to-scale replica of Sistine Chaple from under a desk and me feeling hopeless looking at a pile of loo rolls and PVA glue.”

Pure poetry!
 
Brilliant stuff, great interview. Looks like the heel method would feel less scary fall-wise. Really cool that it seems to be cemented as an iconic classic now.
 
Arlo Rogers has done Estado Critico 9a at Siurana according to his UKC logbook.
I once bumped into Arlo at a crag, no idea who he was. He strolled up an E1 and said it wasn't too bad at the grade, and I should have a go. I ended up giving it a miss, only to later see it gets voted a full grade harder on UKC! My immediate response was to think he was either a bit of a dick or crazy strong - I was glad to find out over time that it was the latter!

That's quite the list of british climbers on 2 9a's or harder, good company to keep 👏
 
I once bumped into Arlo at a crag, no idea who he was. He strolled up an E1 and said it wasn't too bad at the grade, and I should have a go. I ended up giving it a miss, only to later see it gets voted a full grade harder on UKC! My immediate response was to think he was either a bit of a dick or crazy strong - I was glad to find out over time that it was the latter!

That's quite the list of british climbers on 2 9a's or harder, good company to keep 👏
I first met Arlo at Kilnsey some years ago. He was ridiculously psyched and probably only climbing about 7c at the time. It's amazing how much and how quickly he has improved. What a great effort!
 
Arlo Rogers has done Estado Critico 9a at Siurana according to his UKC logbook.
Awesome. I climbed with Arlo on one of Caff's youth meets when he was about 14. He was very enthusiastic, and we had a great couple of days.
 
Strong young Austrian wad Nicolai Uznik has done Forgotten Gem 8C on his second attempt after getting close on the flash. Feels like the first 8C flash can't be far off.

 

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