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I like that Aidan has taken a more thoughtful approach to sharing a significant ascent than engaging in the standard blah mill. Fair play.
 
I like that UKB deduction has taken a more informative approach to sharing a significant ascent of a likely 9A in the video linked above than some blah blah paywalled secrecy masquerading under some cobblers about "not sure how to share it with the wider climbing public" :2thumbsup:

I do hope it's going to come out with a "No idea about the grade but it felt harder than Burden Of Dreams" tag though :-\
 
shark said:
I'm lost. What has Aidan done?

Spots of Time, previously The Helvellyn Project. I'd recommend signing up to the patreon for a listen to the episode where him and Sam discuss it, lots of detail in there for the discerning listener.

https://climbing-history.org/climb/2862/spots-of-time

ed: just in case the waters were looking a little too clear, it sounds like he's probably done his midnight project in Switzerland too (this one https://www.instagram.com/p/CtuChLNtivi/). Both likely 9A. Looking forward to hearing more as I midnight sounds like it's been a real journey: tiny holds, very skin intensive, fell off the easy moves at the end last season etc.
 
Fiend said:
some blah blah paywalled secrecy masquerading under some cobblers about "not sure how to share it with the wider climbing public"

I'm willing to extend the benefit of the doubt, with the understanding that if you've had a profound experience and make it public straight away and by the standard soulless channels, your relationship to that experience is irreversibly changed and immediately less 'yours'. And for what, just so the consumers can have their little fix? :shrug:
 
Bring back blogs, where people could try to articulate an experience through a written format that didn't totally suck...
 
SPrior said:
Hey all,
To be clear, we aren't attempting to paywall the news. Aidan simply had a profound experience and he wasn't sure how to share it with the wider climbing public without the whole thing getting reduced down to numbers. The reason why he feels comfortable chatting on the Patreon is because the community on there is very wholesome and supportive and won't hold anything he says against him if he later comes to change his mind. To borrow an overly used contemporary term, it's a safe space so to speak.
To those of you who listen to the podcast, first of all, thanks very much, and also there is an update coming this week on the main feed (where 95% of our content is, free of charge and add free) so that will clarify a few bits, and for those of you who don't listen then I'm sure someone will update with a TLDR.
The only thing I would like to clarify is that I in no way pressure or coerce Aidan into any of this, those of you who know Aidan will know he's pretty hard to pressure into anything, it's like herding cats! The only reason we have a Patreon page is because the podcast takes a surprisingly large amount of man hours to produce and we want an incentive to keep doing it whilst also keeping it free of charge and add free for those of you who kind of like it, but not that much.

Nice one Sam. May I also compliment you on the Patreon only podcast on it, as I felt you did really well by just letting him speak, avoiding getting in the way with questions.

remus said:
ed: just in case the waters were looking a little too clear, it sounds like he's probably done his midnight project in Switzerland too (this one https://www.instagram.com/p/CtuChLNtivi/). Both likely 9A. Looking forward to hearing more as I midnight sounds like it's been a real journey: tiny holds, very skin intensive, fell off the easy moves at the end last season etc.

Interesting, where are you getting that from Remus? Other than your sixth sense for hard climbing news!
 
Bradders said:
remus said:
ed: just in case the waters were looking a little too clear, it sounds like he's probably done his midnight project in Switzerland too (this one https://www.instagram.com/p/CtuChLNtivi/). Both likely 9A. Looking forward to hearing more as I midnight sounds like it's been a real journey: tiny holds, very skin intensive, fell off the easy moves at the end last season etc.

Interesting, where are you getting that from Remus? Other than your sixth sense for hard climbing news!

Second hand info via the careless talk discord channel, and some speculation based on the fact he's left switzerland to try burden (would assume he'd hang around switzerland if he was still trying midnight). Nothing confirmed though so could be wrong.
 
I'm not in a hurry. If someone need a but if time to put an ascent into some form of context for me, I'm all for it.

[Rant]

If I wasn't so busy I would spend an afternoon on creating a news-aggregate site that scrape insta accounts, send posts with enough impact to chat-gpt for light rewriting (and possible translation) and post it on a news site with lots of ads.

I'm pretty sure that most news-aggregation sites can be replaced by a chat-bot, since they basically do the above manually. (Most sites do no attempt at verification by asking belayers/witnesses and do no attempts to analyse performances and put them in context anyway. So marginally better than a robot. If that.)

[/Rant]
 
The moment one experiences the mental clarity, alignment of natures variables and the physical precision required to execute a series of inconceivable moves can bring one into a euphoric state.
Years of training, commitment and sacrifice can, on occasion, culminate to such a moment for a person.
The emotions linked with an experience such as this are deeply personal and can often be negatively tarnished by the musings of the social media mob.

Time to reflect on the experience and emotions of such a significant life event such as this must be pondered as to not negatively impact one’s experience.
Only then can a person decide on the best approach to break the news to the eager climbing community without causing their own personal experience to be unfavourably altered.

I’m sure more will be unveiled when he is ready.
 
jwi said:
[Rant]

If I wasn't so busy I would spend an afternoon on creating a news-aggregate site that scrape insta accounts, send posts with enough impact to chat-gpt for light rewriting (and possible translation) and post it on a news site with lots of ads.

I'm pretty sure that most news-aggregation sites can be replaced by a chat-bot, since they basically do the above manually. (Most sites do no attempt at verification by asking belayers/witnesses and do no attempts to analyse performances and put them in context anyway. So marginally better than a robot. If that.)

[/Rant]

Indeed. Being a serial news-watcher you quickly get a sense for which sources put the effort in (grimper, desnivel, fanatic climbing and UKC spring to mind) and those that are all about a quick turn around and low effort content.
 
ducko said:
Time to reflect on the experience and emotions of such a significant life event such as this must be pondered as to not negatively impact one’s experience.
For some people I'm sure this is true. Not for others - it's not the universal "must" you make out. For an alternative view on overthinking climbing rocks, see
https://youtu.be/nuDS0jZ3zmk?si=-yduUbHbEq093n4r&t=183
 
It feels a bit pretentious to me but also I'm not going to say how someone should or shouldn't say they've done a climb, really.
 
Wellsy said:
It feels a bit pretentious to me but also I'm not going to say how someone should or shouldn't say they've done a climb, really.

Listen to the podcast and I don't think you could possibly accuse him of being pretentious about it at all. Finding a thing incredibly meaningful and personally impactful and then wanting to take care over how you then discuss it isn't pretentious. If anything, if he'd slapped an Insta post on, big green tick, massive grade and hit UKC up for an interview THAT would be pretentious.
 
abarro81 said:
ducko said:
Time to reflect on the experience and emotions of such a significant life event such as this must be pondered as to not negatively impact one’s experience.
For some people I'm sure this is true. Not for others - it's not the universal "must" you make out. For an alternative view on overthinking climbing rocks, see
https://youtu.be/nuDS0jZ3zmk?si=-yduUbHbEq093n4r&t=183

I was replying within the context of this discussion.

To some, climbing is more than meaningless leisure, it supply’s them with meaning that sustains them and drives them to keep pressing forwards, fighting against the limitations of the human form.
To others it’s little more than a day out scaling rocks - this is also fine.
 
Bradders said:
Listen to the podcast and I don't think you could possibly accuse him of being pretentious about it at all.
I assume Wellsy was referring to Ducko's post, which seems to me to be written in a pretentious style. But that's maybe a side argument about writing style.

Ducko - climbing can give someone meaning and purpose (I suspect it does for Huber given how much of his life has been devoted to it) while they also believe that fundamentally there's nothing special or spiritual about climbing. That was kind of the point of posting Huber - a man who's spent his life climbing rocks - as a counterpoint

Anyway, I think we'd all agreed Aidan can do what he wants and remus or dingdong could have just posted what they knew without worrying about breaking an NDA
 

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