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I love the breadth of opinions here. Schubert can do any route in the world, but he's still going to get shut down by an 8c slice of Peak choss.
 
Will Hunt said:
I love the breadth of opinions here. Schubert can do any route in the world, but he's still going to get shut down by an 8c slice of Peak choss.

Worth noting that it is other people's informed opinion versus my (sincere) stupid opinion ;D
 
I just don't think there is any conceivable universe where someone would not be capable of climbing something a full number grade below their max, assuming the grades are roughly right. The Peak isn't a magical anti gravity zone where those not schooled in the uniquely British dark arts of small crimps are ritually humiliated in a candlelit ceremony in the cave at Raven Tor!

With the above in mind re accuracy of grades, to apply to a personal level I don't think there is eg a 7b in the world that I wouldn't be able to redpoint with enough time. I'm equally confident eg Barrows would be able to do any 8a on the world (even those without any knees ha ha ha) . Why would Ondra/Schubert be any different? 8c is comparatively piss for them.
 
I want to agree with this, as I instinctively want to disagree with Stone's implication that there are 8c's in the peak that truly world-class 9c wads couldn't do (or would struggle for ages on). But wasn't the 9b+ version of Sharma once quoted: 'I'll never be able to do Mutation'? I know it's not 'full number grade' difference... but if Stone's 8c examples were sandbagged and are really 8c+ then it isn't that far off.
 
petejh said:
I want to agree with this, as I instinctively want to disagree with Stone's implication that there are 8c's in the peak that truly world-class 9c wads couldn't do (or would struggle for ages on). But wasn't the 9b+ version of Sharma once quoted: 'I'll never be able to do Mutation'? I know it's not 'full number grade' difference... but if Stone's 8c examples were sandbagged and are really 8c+ then it isn't that far off.

I think the implication of the Sharma quote was "I'll never climb mutation because it's all about horrible crimping on a chossy crag, I'd rather spend my time in Spain ticking off proper world class lines."
 
Much as I don't want to derail the Peak bashing, Beckett Hsin has done The Game 8C

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1JCuXGuwlP/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Can't be many people who've climbed an 8C at 14 years old?
 
Kind of similar. A video of Sharma going and doing an old school Marc Le Menestral 8b+.

It looked like a path for him.

https://youtu.be/23bpWyCIm_w?si=xq3vHhknIu-KUGXo
 
Bradders said:
Can't be many people who've climbed an 8C at 14 years old?

This article alleges that Ashima was the youngest to climb 8C when she climbed Horizon just before her 15th birthday.

https://www.climbing.com/news/ashima-shiraishi-sets-new-standard/

Her record was broken by Mishka Ishi who climbed 8C when she was 13.

https://www.climbernews.com/13-year-old-mishka-ishi-becomes-youngest-person-to-climb-v15-boulder/

As far I can see, that's it. Oriane Bertone climbed 8B+ aged 15, which is close.
 
The tor is shit and we all know it. There's a big difference between 2 grades and 6 grades. There are shit loads of 8cs in the world I couldn't climb; in sure there are also 8as I couldnt do but far far fewer!
 
Ah yeah forgot mutation had been upped to 9a+. (Seems then a reasonable likelihood Stone’s 8c examples may be 8c+? So 5 grades…)

Does seem unlikely that a 9c wad wouldn’t be able to climb virtually any 8c, even a marks&spencer peak 8c.
 
Somehow Super is a lot weirder than Mutation though isn't it? Mutation is pulling through steep ground on little crimps then a wild burly move, then a precarious vertical finish. Somehow Super is blank vertical limestone all the way. The grading isn't amongst other benchmark routes of that style is it?
 
petejh said:
I want to agree with this, as I instinctively want to disagree with Stone's implication that there are 8c's in the peak that truly world-class 9c wads couldn't do (or would struggle for ages on). But wasn't the 9b+ version of Sharma once quoted: 'I'll never be able to do Mutation'? I know it's not 'full number grade' difference... but if Stone's 8c examples were sandbagged and are really 8c+ then it isn't that far off.

I think Sharma is a completely different question, in that he's clearly very strong in some styles and weaker in others. You might be able to find an 8c slab or similar that he just couldn't do. Or perhaps not, I think this facet of his climbing is probably exaggerated, but it's certainly true relative to some other top climbers.

Jakob (or any other modern comp climber for that matter) are so good across all styles that they don't tend to have any real weaknesses, and so I don't think any obscure sandbag 8c (or harder, likely) would give him much bother.
 
stone said:
Somehow Super is a lot weirder than Mutation though isn't it? Mutation is pulling through steep ground on little crimps then a wild burly move, then a precarious vertical finish. Somehow Super is blank vertical limestone all the way. The grading isn't amongst other benchmark routes of that style is it?

How is Somehow Super climbed then? Sounds intriguing.
 
Felix said he really enjoyed Somehow Super and wasn't complaining of trashed skin or anything. I only saw him on it when he first started working it (what I was on at the Cornice later got wet and so I climbed at a different crag). From what I could see at that stage of the process he could, with difficulty, suss out individual moves but could only sustain his levitation systems for a few goes, at individual moves, before they tired and he couldn't anymore.

My impression from that Sharma video is that Magie Blanche looks like a longer version of Love Amongst The Butterflies. That's a popular classic that gets done regularly. My guess is that most of the people who do Love Amongst The Butterflies wouldn't be able to pull on on Somehow Super.

Perhaps Somehow Super would be path for the top people. I'd still be more in awe watching them path it than any other route I know of.
 
stone said:
Perhaps Somehow Super would be path for the top people. I'd still be more in awe watching them path it than any other route I know of.

I kinda know what you mean here. Although I can conceptually understand that Seb questing through Flatanger in a 100m single pitch is super hard it's difficult to really comprehend if you haven't climbed similar routes. It all jsut ends up in the "much harder than I can climb" bracket. I've spent some time on crimpy peak lime nasties though, so somehow it'd be all the more impressive to see an uber-wad smash them in, because it's a level of difficulty I can understand.
 

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