significant repeats

[remus]

Nice! Fifth ascent I think?

Pete Whittaker has made the fourth ascent of Stranger than Fiction E10/8c, Mason Earle's desert crack that Lor Saborin recently repeated.

 

[lukeyboy]

Nice! Fifth ascent I think?

Pete Whittaker has made the fourth ascent of Stranger than Fiction E10/8c, Mason Earle's desert crack that Lor Saborin recently repeated.

Very cool. From the recent wideboyz video it looked like it wouldn't take him too long. I thought it looked like a stellar route / line, one for the life list.

 

[slab_happy]

Pete Whittaker has made the fourth ascent of Stranger than Fiction E10/8c, Mason Earle's desert crack that Lor Saborin recently repeated.

Third ascent, surely? Unless someone else snuck in and nabbed the third.

 

[remus]

Brittany Goris climbed it on pre-placed gear last year, she didnt want to publicise it though as she wanted to do it placing the gear first.

https://climbing-history.org/climb/2839/stranger-than-fiction

 

[slab_happy]

Ah right, thanks!

 

[remus]

Ryohei Kameyama maaaay have flashed a problem called Flux 8C in Japan, pretty unclear though.

In this vid it has an overlay which says 'first go' which is ambiguous. He also posted about doing the problem on insta a couple of weeks ago, but with no mention of it being a flash which feels odd if he has flashed it.

It's within the realms of possibility though as he's certainly got the palmares (No Kpote Only second ascent, Floatin etc. https://climbing-history.org/climber/669/ryohei-kameyama)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcBSdRuzJI0

https://www.instagram.com/p/CzoJIffSU3a/

 

[brbushell]

Ryohei Kameyama maaaay have flashed a problem called Flux 8C in Japan, pretty unclear though.

In this vid it has an overlay which says 'first go' which is ambiguous. He also posted about doing the problem on insta a couple of weeks ago, but with no mention of it being a flash which feels odd if he has flashed it.

It's within the realms of possibility though as he's certainly got the palmares (No Kpote Only second ascent, Floatin etc. https://climbing-history.org/climber/669/ryohei-kameyama)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcBSdRuzJI0

https://www.instagram.com/p/CzoJIffSU3a/

It looks like he climbed a higher start to this earlier this year called Alter so I'm guessing Flux may have just been first go from the start

https://www.instagram.com/p/CsTAZR9S5M3/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

 

[MischaHY]

Pure imagination flash for Jesse Grupper

 

[Fraser]

Ryohei Kameyama maaaay have flashed a problem called Flux 8C in Japan, pretty unclear though.

In this vid it has an overlay which says 'first go' which is ambiguous. He also posted about doing the problem on insta a couple of weeks ago, but with no mention of it being a flash which feels odd if he has flashed it.

It's within the realms of possibility though as he's certainly got the palmares (No Kpote Only second ascent, Floatin etc. https://climbing-history.org/climber/669/ryohei-kameyama)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcBSdRuzJI0

https://www.instagram.com/p/CzoJIffSU3a/

It looks like he climbed a higher start to this earlier this year called Alter so I'm guessing Flux may have just been first go from the start

https://www.instagram.com/p/CsTAZR9S5M3/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

https://www.8a.nu/news/ryohei-kameyama-completes-flux-8c-v8v3z

This post seems to kind of confirm this, seems as though he practiced the moves for a couple of days then got it on his first go from the start.

 

[Bradders]

So not first go at all...

 

[abarro81]

I might be mistaking my significant repeats thread for my strong brits thread, but it looks like Sam Prior did 8C the other day https://www.instagram.com/p/C0XGyVJNFD4/

 

[remus]

Tomoa has flashed Gakidō 8C+ in Japan! After some discussion with Shinichiro Nomura (who made the FA) he's suggested a downgrade to 8B+. It'll be interesting to see where it settles, as Ryuichi Murai suggested 8C+ when he made the second ascent and both Ryuichi and Shinichiro have the palmares.

Reading the comments from the various ascents it sounds like an unusual problem, with some funny positions that mean the problem looks like it is easier than it actually feels on the go. Sounds like it fit Tomoa pretty well though, so maybe it's one of those that is a bit morpho and feels significantly easier if you fit in the box.

I could imagine it settling down to 8C, which would make Tomoa's ascent the first ever flash of an 8C.

Tomoa also added the sit, which adds a 4 move 8B in to the stand. Doing some napkin grade maths, even if you think the stand is 8B+ it's surely going to add up to at least 8C+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1GGUEsPL3U/

 

[Liamhutch89]

Tomoa has flashed Gakidō 8C+ in Japan! After some discussion with Shinichiro Nomura (who made the FA) he's suggested a downgrade to 8B+. It'll be interesting to see where it settles, as Ryuichi Murai suggested 8C+ when he made the second ascent and both Ryuichi and Shinichiro have the palmares.

Reading the comments from the various ascents it sounds like an unusual problem, with some funny positions that mean the problem looks like it is easier than it actually feels on the go. Sounds like it fit Tomoa pretty well though, so maybe it's one of those that is a bit morpho and feels significantly easier if you fit in the box.

I could imagine it settling down to 8C, which would make Tomoa's ascent the first ever flash of an 8C.

Tomoa also added the sit, which adds a 4 move 8B in to the stand. Doing some napkin grade maths, even if you think the stand is 8B+ it's surely going to add up to at least 8C+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1GGUEsPL3U/

Jesus Christ! Not bad for a rest day between comp training sessions.

 

[Bradders]

What a flipping monster.

Ryuichi did suggest he thought it was soft when he did it, and that he and Nomura would discuss the grades once they'd both done Floatin'

https://www.instagram.com/p/CkgMghwp5Bw/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

 

[PATRuL]

I did a Floater the other day ... does that count?

 

[remus]

Jakob has done alphane. Cements him pretty firmly as one of the best all rounders imo: B.I.G earlier this year, world champs wins and then this.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1HwsHeIt2w/?igsh=MWo1cm54aDE2dGh1dw==

 

[Ed booth]

Beast

 

[Will Hunt]

Is that Alphane cusped now? Or did Lorenzi cusp it?

 

[Bradders]

First person to climb 9A boulder and 9c sport, assuming Terranova doesn't get upgraded and Alphane doesn't get downgraded :-\

 

[teestub]

Awesome, seems like a great boulder for a strength endurance beast like Schubert.