significant repeats

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Intrigued to know if that's the exact line Fred took. Must have felt hard without spotters or any pads of any substance (assuming). Top looks pretty arbitrary though.
 
Of niche interest, but I've just finished compiling the collective ukb knowledge from this thread in to https://climbing-history.org/ It's been a journey! Along the way Micky Page has become less of a dark horse, Caff has climbed at least 13 E9s and Varian has compiled an outrageous list of FAs.

Honorable mentions to Doylo, Adam Lincoln and JB. Stalwarts of significant repeats.
 
I'd forgotten about Micky Page doing Monk Life 15 times in a session for photos. Bonkers.
 
Tim Blake dodged the welsh patrols to repeat Hippocampus. in 13years i've not heard of another repeat? so its a good effort being arsed and doing it in a session as well. It'll probs open the door to the honeypot send train now.
 
Billy Ridal has repeated The Boss. There's also a video on his Instagram.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CL7b4p6jH3r/
 
Goat said:
Billy Ridal has repeated The Boss. There's also a video on his Instagram.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CL7b4p6jH3r/

Wow! without a spotter as well. I'd thought this might go years before it had a repeat.
 
submaximal gains said:
Goat said:
Billy Ridal has repeated The Boss. There's also a video on his Instagram.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CL7b4p6jH3r/

Wow! without a spotter as well. I'd thought this might go years before it had a repeat.

It’s already been repeated by Micky Page last year.

Awesome stuff Billy.

Thanks goat... whoever you are ;)
 
A changing of the guard seems to be in progress, in bouldering at least.

Still appears to be a ways to go on this front re routes.
 
Good video, looked really smooth, but is drying holds with a fan on grit ok now?

Just saw Bradders commented on IG after I posted. Even if there are extremely isolated instances where it might be ok, spraying about it on insta is surely a poor idea.
 
Seems fine in cases like this, sounds like it was much closer to the 'improving conditions' end of the spectrum than 'trying to dry a sopping problem'.
 
I dont think this was miles the wrong side of the line, but drying holds on sandstone or grit will always leave a risk of the rock still being wet under the surface, and a well known climber explicitly mentioning the practice on their social media when reporting a significant ascent is a very bad idea IMO
 
remus said:
Seems fine in cases like this, sounds like it was much closer to the 'improving conditions' end of the spectrum than 'trying to dry a sopping problem'.

Doesn't seem any different to going to Almscliffe on a windy day because you know it will be the first to dry.
 

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