significant repeats
- Thread starter benpritch
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carlisle slapper
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2006
- Messages
- 192
Jack your sleuthing is top level, keep it up.
You missed a few on your info bomb though!
Rob Hunters repeat of Blondie after 4 years of on and off attempts (it was his proj before i messed with the landing) Is a real stand out event from last year for me, a proper good effort. Rob is 43 but is still operating at the top level. Blondie is a good step up from lines like Glenn Ross. https://www.instagram.com/p/B7y75F2punt/
Michael Duffy also completed his long term Lough Tay project. Giving Ireland its first 8C https://www.instagram.com/p/B9b9HBPDmRU/
Rickys got footage of it i think so something will surface at some point.
Same goes for Ned, i think most of his stand out ascents are on Nicks Camera somewhere. Sometimes its better to do a good job of putting the story together than throwing it all on the Media pile too fast.
There's been a lot of good points on here. The climate definitely discourages hyping things myself nowadays as its all just washed away in 24hours. I'm lucky enough to not need to as are most of the other people who just get out and get on with things and really thats where the main difference comes from. Because to actually make something stick in public consciousness is an unenviable task of repeat trumpeting. Literally the only reason i wrote the blogs for scarpa is because i hadnt written anything in 5 years and i knew that project was it. I really dont think i'll find another line like that in the UK ever, even in Scotland. And whilst it made Cheetham gag with the bile of soulless hype i can only apologise. I wont do it often i promise, luckily i just don't have the time to explain, nor do i have a "line" to explain as its really quite hard finding them. There are maybe one or two exceptions to this if i ever manage them.
Bouldering also appears to be reaching a saturation point whereby there are just so many hard problems and lines in all areas IMO it needs to just move to more of a surf related mindset of people just getting out there and enjoying the quality and movement aspects of hard climbing. The prospects of comprehensive ticking everything in all areas now is pretty unlikely and for the vast majority of boulderers there's more out there than they could ever hope to climb. Which for the UK is a pretty cool thought but also it does change front end development a bit for people like myself as the kudos of having things repeated or going back and forth on FA's and repeats like you see in hotspots like rocklands or font just doesnt happen in the UK at the moment. So it becomes mroe self centered and less about sharing. I was climbing with Collignon last summer just before i did bombadil and showed him the pics and i was chuffed to see he thought it looked great, i could also explain the moves through similar problems in font. To me conversations like that mean a lot, far more than a grade. Him and Lebreton have done so much to keep inspiring lines cropping up in font in recent years, essentially peer review for developer nerds.
I try and add most of my ascents to UKC but actually theres a bunch not on there since family time crept in. For example i havent been arsed about adding new crags/ finding out how to. So many lines like Tiperary and rocking spectre arent on there. But i do try and make sure either flickr or UKC has something as essentially it undermines the point of writing up the sport if i dont and i'd be hypocritical to use any guidebook if i did that. I always try and liase properly with guidebook writers too.
Re shallowgroove i think it's incredibly important to stress that this is the second ascent of Ryans direct. The line John describes in his interview should get written up as a seperate finish after the first move. If vitruvian man has a RH and LH version so should this. Even more so because the RH line has a proven track record of attempts, fails doing moves etc but the LH line only emerged in johns interview and is something entirely different... If Ryans line was easy someone else would've done it in the last 17years. Aidan is super well suited to crimping utter crap whilst standing on a ledge (as is Ryan). Its one of the weirdest hard problems in the world IMO. Literally no extra kudos for a trainers ascent.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/49937266778/in/dateposted/
Electron Cycles, are your best bet for 30-60mph ebikes that look casual enough to pass as mtbs.
You missed a few on your info bomb though!
Rob Hunters repeat of Blondie after 4 years of on and off attempts (it was his proj before i messed with the landing) Is a real stand out event from last year for me, a proper good effort. Rob is 43 but is still operating at the top level. Blondie is a good step up from lines like Glenn Ross. https://www.instagram.com/p/B7y75F2punt/
Michael Duffy also completed his long term Lough Tay project. Giving Ireland its first 8C https://www.instagram.com/p/B9b9HBPDmRU/
Rickys got footage of it i think so something will surface at some point.
Same goes for Ned, i think most of his stand out ascents are on Nicks Camera somewhere. Sometimes its better to do a good job of putting the story together than throwing it all on the Media pile too fast.
There's been a lot of good points on here. The climate definitely discourages hyping things myself nowadays as its all just washed away in 24hours. I'm lucky enough to not need to as are most of the other people who just get out and get on with things and really thats where the main difference comes from. Because to actually make something stick in public consciousness is an unenviable task of repeat trumpeting. Literally the only reason i wrote the blogs for scarpa is because i hadnt written anything in 5 years and i knew that project was it. I really dont think i'll find another line like that in the UK ever, even in Scotland. And whilst it made Cheetham gag with the bile of soulless hype i can only apologise. I wont do it often i promise, luckily i just don't have the time to explain, nor do i have a "line" to explain as its really quite hard finding them. There are maybe one or two exceptions to this if i ever manage them.
Bouldering also appears to be reaching a saturation point whereby there are just so many hard problems and lines in all areas IMO it needs to just move to more of a surf related mindset of people just getting out there and enjoying the quality and movement aspects of hard climbing. The prospects of comprehensive ticking everything in all areas now is pretty unlikely and for the vast majority of boulderers there's more out there than they could ever hope to climb. Which for the UK is a pretty cool thought but also it does change front end development a bit for people like myself as the kudos of having things repeated or going back and forth on FA's and repeats like you see in hotspots like rocklands or font just doesnt happen in the UK at the moment. So it becomes mroe self centered and less about sharing. I was climbing with Collignon last summer just before i did bombadil and showed him the pics and i was chuffed to see he thought it looked great, i could also explain the moves through similar problems in font. To me conversations like that mean a lot, far more than a grade. Him and Lebreton have done so much to keep inspiring lines cropping up in font in recent years, essentially peer review for developer nerds.
I try and add most of my ascents to UKC but actually theres a bunch not on there since family time crept in. For example i havent been arsed about adding new crags/ finding out how to. So many lines like Tiperary and rocking spectre arent on there. But i do try and make sure either flickr or UKC has something as essentially it undermines the point of writing up the sport if i dont and i'd be hypocritical to use any guidebook if i did that. I always try and liase properly with guidebook writers too.
Re shallowgroove i think it's incredibly important to stress that this is the second ascent of Ryans direct. The line John describes in his interview should get written up as a seperate finish after the first move. If vitruvian man has a RH and LH version so should this. Even more so because the RH line has a proven track record of attempts, fails doing moves etc but the LH line only emerged in johns interview and is something entirely different... If Ryans line was easy someone else would've done it in the last 17years. Aidan is super well suited to crimping utter crap whilst standing on a ledge (as is Ryan). Its one of the weirdest hard problems in the world IMO. Literally no extra kudos for a trainers ascent.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/49937266778/in/dateposted/
Electron Cycles, are your best bet for 30-60mph ebikes that look casual enough to pass as mtbs.
spidermonkey09
Well-Known Member
Great discussion. Good effort to all who have done hard shit and those who have posted on the thread.
This thread is a nice mixture between cool stuff and groundbreaking stuff. Context is everything surely and for people like me who pathologically refuse to get instagram its a good place to read about it without the bollocks that it comes with on Insta. Keep posting all!
This thread is a nice mixture between cool stuff and groundbreaking stuff. Context is everything surely and for people like me who pathologically refuse to get instagram its a good place to read about it without the bollocks that it comes with on Insta. Keep posting all!
36chambers
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2014
- Messages
- 1,720
carlisle slapper said:
Is this the same for the Bombadil footage?
Duma
Well-Known Member
Really? I can see some pic of him on it and a vid of Lady Grey to the left, but can't find vid. Maybe it's private?
Duma
Well-Known Member
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704573032/in/photostream
This is a great pic tho
This is a great pic tho
Alex-the-Alex
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2015
- Messages
- 222
SA Chris said:
Not even. The ferry to Mull is 30 quid or more each time with the car. 7 quid by bike! And none of the bouldering is that far on the other side (Loch Buie, Gribun), just a bit much for a push bike. Same for the Barra boulder, or Arran, or that big glen on Lewis for any Ullapoodlians. The glen tarbert boulders cost 15 quid return on the Corran ferry each time. Thats free with a bike! If the bikes 3 grand youd only have to go 600 times. Then there are load of big boulderfields on the mainland with a 2hr estate track walk. At 60mph you'de be in to Daves new boulderfield near Glenfinnan in 10mins from the road. I think its got legs.
Sorry for getting off topic... Good discussion :thumbsup:
This is the 1st place I look for news of what’s happening and the first bit of the forum I look at so keep it up.
All points mentioned are note worthy. Not worth there own thread but worth being on here. The big stuff gets its own thing I guess.
All points mentioned are note worthy. Not worth there own thread but worth being on here. The big stuff gets its own thing I guess.
Duma
Well-Known Member
Fuck me she looks like she absolutely paths it!
Duma
Well-Known Member
She's 15 and writing in a second language, I think I can forgive bit of pretension .Fiend said:
