significant repeats

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Fiend said:
This is a fascinating discussion. Can someone please post links / pictures / details / quoted write-ups of all the other news listed above (apart from Elliot's that had a video posted and Ned's with one instalink). I'm not on insta / flickr / grindr / ukcr so it's really useful to have stuff posted in this thread.

No posts about Micky doing The Illusionist.

No post (I have seen) about Aidan doing Shallow Grave but it was only a few days ago apparently.

Dan's write up of Bombadil - https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/
 
I say stick it all on here and let the reader decide whether it's significant or not. Obviously Jack isn't moved by the UK sport accomplishments compared with bouldering feats, but that doesn't mean that others won't be inspired. Personally I'm impressed with Mat's Kaabah ascent, especially coming straight out of lockdown where route training had been really difficult for most. Chapeau!
 
As I see it there are two options.

Option A is to keep this thread a place for anything anyone finds noteworthy.

Option B is that you are not allowed to post an ascent on this thread unless you have made friends with a select group of people, rung round the rumour mill to check that you haven't missed anything more noteworthy from the previous year, or spent the time to read a 1500 word shoe advert in case it contains a mention of a noteworthy FA.

Erm, I vote option A.

Though I really appreciate Jack posting on this thread; for many people it's the only way they will hear about ascents from Dan/Ned/Mickey/Aidan etc and they are obviously some of the best ascents around.

Selfishly, I also wish the suspects above were more publicity seeking. I'd much rather see pics and videos of sends of SG than most of the stuff I spend wasting my time on the internet watching. Come on guys - if not for your sponsors, do it to save me from cat videos!
 
Thanks for the Bombadil link Dave, lovely writing (even the shoe advert at the beginning was vaguely interesting). Loved the bit on the successful go, and the idea of writing it to share that momentary perfection. Anymore pics/vid available anywhere? When Dan did Hoby Noble I thought Christianbury sounded like an amazing place and the problem really interesting and untypical for hard stuff. Be nice to see what the movement looks like.
 
Quick one and last post from me on here. (Barrows style struggling to walk away)

Naomi, It isn't that It doesn't move me, loads of sport stuff I find mega inspiring, especially rarely repeated or fast ascents. I just find what people get excited about strange in relation to stuff they aren't at all bothered by. Looking forward to catching up soon.

Stu I agree, I wish they were more willing to put the stuff out there. That blog is Dan's way of doing that for whatever reason.
And again i'm not saying people shouldn't post about stuff, I just wish they'd get excited about the stuff I do, and then maybe we'd see more of it.


I'll try to tap out now but leave you with the snippet that Dave Mason did his 500th 8th grade problem yesterday. Not too shabby.
 
Duma said:
Thanks for the Bombadil link Dave, lovely writing (even the shoe advert at the beginning was vaguely interesting). Loved the bit on the successful go, and the idea of writing it to share that momentary perfection. Anymore pics/vid available anywhere? When Dan did Hoby Noble I thought Christianbury sounded like an amazing place and the problem really interesting and untypical for hard stuff. Be nice to see what the movement looks like.

Think this photo is pretty much it - https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48838820561/in/photostream/. Dan does come on here a bit though so he may be able to shed more light on it.

Christianbury looks ace, I think now the road is closed it's quite a walk, Dan uses an electric bike to get up there.

I agree with Stu, I don't think posting stuff on here is a bad thing even if some deem it not to be significant. It's easy to scroll past it.
 
I think it's hard to judge what folk are excited about by how much reaction it gets on here, as barrows said, often I'll read something here and be psyched but won't reply as I don't feel like I've got much to add.

Contributions like yours are really valuable though as lots of this stuff by the more publicity shy wads might slide under the radar otherwise, please keep posting it!
 
The Joe Brown article on the other channel made me think about this. Mick's been able to write an in-depth dissection of hard climbing of the era. That's helped in part because there were fewer disciplines of climbing and fewer people operating at the top, so there's less information to sort through. But I'm sure it's also helped by the fact that stuff got written down in places where it could be referred back to later, and information was properly recorded. I can sit here in my house and work out that Tony Barley did probably the second ascent of Forked Lightning Crack, then the first ascent of The Creation later in the day. The next day, he and his brother went to Malham and made the first ascent of Carnage - an outrageous piece of climbing for the time. They would have been boys at the time.

If you are a climber who has done a new route or significant repeat or anything even remotely noteworthy for the future, when you record it by posting a little video or photo on Instagram, often with little or no caption, you are effectively throwing your achievement onto landfill. Everyone else is also throwing their experiences onto this steaming shit heap of climbing, and with every new thing that is piled on top, significant or not, the stuff underneath becomes harder and harder to access. Instagram has not been set up as a way to record historically significant events in a way that they might be easily recalled and reviewed later.

To the very cool people who are out there doing these great things, the act of properly recording something that might be the hardest piece of climbing on gritstone (or any other significant things - I'm not just picking on Ned) might seem desperately uncool and showy, but when future chroniclers come to write the history books in 50 years time, don't be surprised if very few people can figure out what the fuck was going on. I can understand why people might not like to share what they've done - I've taken the piss out of #blessed people on Instagram enough - but it is possible to record things without being a complete sap about it.
 
I know what you are saying Jack. It's unbalanced to have reports of ascents by folk who have a media crew / entourage, whilst the dark horses fly under the radar. So keep us posted! You've got good contacts with the quiet operators and we like hearing about them.
 
Thanks Dave, beautiful bit of rock. Lady Grey looks fucking great and a bit more achievable for the likes of me too! Hopefully I'll get the chance to pass by one day.

Edit, and well done on the half K! Be catching up with P-Rob soon!
 
Duma said:
Thanks Dave, beautiful bit of rock. Lady Grey looks fucking great and a bit more achievable for the likes of me too! Hopefully I'll get the chance to pass by one day.

Edit, and well done on the half K! Be catching up with P-Rob soon!

Yeah it's a great looking venue. So many good problems up that way that don't get the attention they deserve in my opinion.

Haha thanks! I'll keep on trucking!
 
Defo keep posting stuff you hear about Jack! But tbh I would rarely make any comment on things unless it was particularly waddage or I felt I had something to add (rare)

Remember when I was working for the other, more evil channel I would use this thread a lot to find out about things as UKBers are well connected.

Also remember dark horses complaining that there stuff didn’t get recognised but I never heard from them/it was hard getting anything out of them if I did get wind of anything. :worms:

Ace that Aiden did Shallow groove, and obvs anything Varian does is cool as fuck.

Also well done Dave - who do we think has done the most 8s? Varian and Ned for the U.K.? Or are you pipping them Dave?
 
Off topic, but just been back to read the other blogs re Bombadil and thought I'd link them as I really do think it's lovely writing
Part 1
https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christinbury-part-1-article/
Part 2
https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-2-article/
Part 3 (that Dave linked earlier)
https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/

"the devil makes work for idle hangs" indeed!
 
Duncan campbell said:
Defo keep posting stuff you hear about Jack! But tbh I would rarely make any comment on things unless it was particularly waddage or I felt I had something to add (rare)

Remember when I was working for the other, more evil channel I would use this thread a lot to find out about things as UKBers are well connected.

Also remember dark horses complaining that there stuff didn’t get recognised but I never heard from them/it was hard getting anything out of them if I did get wind of anything. :worms:

Ace that Aiden did Shallow groove, and obvs anything Varian does is cool as fuck.

Also well done Dave - who do we think has done the most 8s? Varian and Ned for the U.K.? Or are you pipping them Dave?

I'm not sure Duncan. Mike Adams will have done a lot and I imagine Turner isn't too far off either.
 
I hope Jack isn't bemoaning the lack of sig rep reporting in this thread, and then disappearing off it and not posting any more sig reps???
 
monkey boy said:
Dan uses an electric bike to get up there.

Visionary. Thats the way forward for far out bouldering. After the last few months even more so. And up here you'd save a shit tonne on the ferries too. If anyone knows any ebike companies that need ambassadors hit me up.
 

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