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More info on Progress relevant in the context of the grade of Evolution.

From High Mag Sept 95 Rock Notes which I have just dug out of storage (paraphrased):

Progress was first equipped and subsequently abandoned by Paul Ingham. Nic and Tony Mitchell had been vying for the prize of climbing this 'open project'. Jerry asked Nic if the project was open and having gained the relevant 'consent' set about climbing the line with an efficiency which must have made Nic and Tony, both of whom had made great progress on the line in their 2 years of attempts, want to hang up their boots.

I guess this is what was reported at the time although the reality may have been different, who knows?
 
Mina ticks Fake Pamplemousse at Brione 8a. For me this is amazing and by far the most impressive and probably hardest thing she's done. The other stuff she's done are hard but it didn't surprise me that she'd ticked them having very strong fingers. Stuff like Teamwork and Le Pilier see female ascents evrry winter. This however is pure burl, every move is pretty hard with the crux first move being burly as hell. It was enough to stop Smitton in his tracks when i was there with him. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

What a beast!
 
Doylo said:
Mina ticks Fake Pamplemousse at Brione 8a. For me this is amazing and by far the most impressive and probably hardest thing she's done. The other stuff she's done are hard but it didn't surprise me that she'd ticked them having very strong fingers. Stuff like Teamwork and Le Pilier see female ascents evrry winter. This however is pure burl, every move is pretty hard with the crux first move being burly as hell. It was enough to stop Smitton in his tracks when i was there with him. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

What a beast!

Aye this is an impressive send! Very burly, not a female style at all.Be interesting to know if it has had any other female ascents.

Mina text me when she did it saying that it was her favourite tick of the trip!
 
Watched Justin someone-or-other (from Lincolnshire, ginger hair & beard. Second name might have something to do with Plum?) do Demon Wall Roof Footless today. Hand in the juggy thing in the roof. Left hand to the lip. Right hand to the crimp. Matched and went. Made it look piss. Was supposed to be unrepeated.
:bow:


BTW DWR with feet is unjustifiable but I can do Pebble Wall again which I haven't done for a while.
 
Will Hunt said:
Watched Justin someone-or-other (from Lincolnshire, ginger hair & beard. Second name might have something to do with Plum?) do Demon Wall Roof Footless today. Hand in the juggy thing in the roof. Left hand to the lip. Right hand to the crimp. Matched and went. Made it look piss. Was supposed to be unrepeated.
:bow:


BTW DWR with feet is unjustifiable but I can do Pebble Wall again which I haven't done for a while.

That will be Justin 'The Lion/Homeless looking hobo' Plumtree...effort!
 
you're right. also sounds like there were some seriously fucked-up rocher-canon style linkups going down on that face. is this boulder now the stanage uberwad's answer to pinches wall?
 
dobbin said:
I heard dark horse Dan Constant Variable did Careless Torque yesterday.

He did indeed, after a fall from the very top, indeed a fall that was taken by a few folk on a few occasions.
 

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