significant repeats

[north_country_boy]

Lancashire's most modest and finest crimper managed to crimp his way up Moffatt's testpiece Evolution earlier today in dismayingly poor conditions! Awesome effort !!

 

[Adam Lincoln]

Lancashire's most modest and finest crimper managed to crimp his way up Moffatt's testpiece Evolution earlier today in dismayingly poor conditions! Awesome effort !!

By eck, it was wet at the bottom yesterday, beast!

 

[Andy Harris]

A fantastic effort and the 1st repeat in about 10 years or so. The last person to do it was Steve Mac and it's had some high calibre flung at it since without success. Noticeably a certain German 9a+ climber and 8c boulderer who's spent a lot of time on it over 3 trips and still not done it. 8c?

Incidentally I didn't think it possible that someone could climb this route not climbing 1 single move in the way I have always tried it.

 

[Stubbs]

Peckett did cherry falls yesterday at almscliff, probably the only dry place in england!!

Was sweet!

Mina has done le piller (another 8a) to!

Both beasts!

:bow:

 

[north_country_boy]

A fantastic effort and the 1st repeat in about 10 years or so. The last person to do it was Steve Mac and it's had some high calibre flung at it since without success. Noticeably a certain German 9a+ climber and 8c boulderer who's spent a lot of time on it over 3 trips and still not done it. 8c?

Very True Indeed, looked ever bit as hard as I would have imagined!

Incidentally I didn't think it possible that someone could climb this route not climbing 1 single move in the way I have always tried it.

T'was Interesting watching both Ryan and Smit try it today, with massively different sequences through most of the bottom 2/3rds!!

Inspirational stuff!!

 

[north_country_boy]

A fantastic effort and the 1st repeat in about 10 years or so. The last person to do it was Steve Mac and it's had some high calibre flung at it since without success.

Didn't Simpson do it?

 

[Doylo]

Footage of pascal trying it last week:
Evolution Attempt

Simpson did it in 2005 i think.
Smit reckons 8c+ and he should know, he's pretty good at the tor, hard 8c's and Kaabah (8c+),Hooligan, SB/PUTP etc..
:bounce:

 

[Adam Lincoln]

Pic of an attempt last week.

 

[TomP]

Peckett did cherry falls yesterday at almscliff, probably the only dry place in england!!

Was sweet!

Mina has done le piller (another 8a) to!

Both beasts!

Oh dear Dave, you spelt my name wrong and how long have I known you? I'll forgive you I suppose. Good to see you at the weekend

 

[Jaspersharpe]

Nice to see some Evolution footage. Awesome stuff (and obviously 8c+).

 

[T_B]

Didn't Jerry give it F8c+ originally? And it got downgraded to F8c? Or am I getting mixed up with Progress. Cool vid footage.

 

[Doylo]

Didn't Jerry give it F8c+ originally? And it got downgraded to F8c? Or am I getting mixed up with Progress. Cool vid footage.

I think he gave them both 8c+, then they came down to 8c and now there back up to 8c+ (Progress lost holds though). And Liquid Ambar's probably 8c+ on the quiet (no upgrade here though). Legend !!!!!

 

[cowboyhat]

Unsurprising awesome despatch from Ryan.

Was chatting to Steve (the only man who knows), about grades specifically at the Tor and Evolution being 8c isn't consistent with the rest of the routes, MIF, the Extentions, StaminaPump etc. - 'only Nick thought it was 8c because he did it quickly and for some reason that opinion stuck'.

 

[Doylo]

Well if Smit and Mcclure both reckon 8c+ then 8c+ it is. Hasn't one of the holds crumbled slightly since the early repeats also?

 

[The Sausage]

Unsurprising awesome despatch from Ryan.

Was chatting to Steve (the only man who knows), about grades specifically at the Tor and Evolution being 8c isn't consistent with the rest of the routes, MIF, the Extentions, StaminaPump etc. - 'only Nick thought it was 8c because he did it quickly and for some reason that opinion stuck'.

Only Nic, the world's most prolific undergrader.

 

[Johnny Brown]

Coming to a mountain near you soon, runaway winner of '09 Outside-the-box award, its The Big Fight Alpine style:

Simpson vs Steck

 

[cofe]

that is well outside the fucking box.

 

[dave]

are you guys the crew?

 

[north_country_boy]

Unsurprising awesome despatch from Ryan.

Was chatting to Steve (the only man who knows), about grades specifically at the Tor and Evolution being 8c isn't consistent with the rest of the routes, MIF, the Extentions, StaminaPump etc. - 'only Nick thought it was 8c because he did it quickly and for some reason that opinion stuck'.

Only Nic, the world's most prolific undergrader.

The rumour Mill spun a more elaborate explanation to me. That Nic downgraded Evolution to 8c, as Jerry had 'stolen' progress from him at Kilnsey, knowing full well it was his Project??

However don't take that as gospel.... :-\

 

[Andy Harris]

Nic did it from the block at the bottom on day 2. He thought the French 6c link into this from the bottom would be a formality but it took him another 4 days. Malc did in an extreemly hot summer and the concensus was 8c. I think Nic was probably at his peak and this suited him to the ground and 8c+ it always was. He probably rated it against LA which he thought was desparate and thought he just simply didn't have the power for.