significant repeats
- Thread starter benpritch
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north_country_boy
Well-Known Member
emily said:
Jim said:
Good effort on both fronts then!
nik at work
Well-Known Member
Ace, ace, ace.
Ace :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Ace :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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dave
Guest
whats this about The Ace - 4 repeats?
Pantontino
Well-Known Member
E7 7a/Font 7b+ for The Promise according to Pete.
priscilla wimbush
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Did he mention how many pads / ladders he used?Pantontino said:
Dave - What is Blind Fury?
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dave
Guest
priscilla wimbush said:
nasty pebble horrorshow right of blind date. done by harris couple of years ago and was unrepested as far as I know.
Fiend
Whut
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- 13,858
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1499 - in depth.
Main point being, I guess, that James ain't a good judge of ball nut placements. And that Jack got ripped off, £45 WTF, I'm sure I paid £35 for mine.
Big up the ball nut massive 8)
Edit: Having watched the video of Bransbubble taking the whipper, it's obvious (as if it wasn't bloody obvious already) where any so-called grading "discrepancy" comes from: James was totally right with his grade estimate if he thought the ball nut would rip and was purely psychological - that would be a bloody horrendous deck-out with ripping gear and no mats. He didn't overestimate the grade he underestimated the ball nut. Word.
Main point being, I guess, that James ain't a good judge of ball nut placements. And that Jack got ripped off, £45 WTF, I'm sure I paid £35 for mine.
Big up the ball nut massive 8)
Edit: Having watched the video of Bransbubble taking the whipper, it's obvious (as if it wasn't bloody obvious already) where any so-called grading "discrepancy" comes from: James was totally right with his grade estimate if he thought the ball nut would rip and was purely psychological - that would be a bloody horrendous deck-out with ripping gear and no mats. He didn't overestimate the grade he underestimated the ball nut. Word.
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dave
Guest
no mention of the laddered landing on there, which would seem a strange ommision, assuming what JR told me was right (i was told ladder to create a landing over the void to the left of the big rock under the route, which looked to be probablty where you'd be landing if you blew the crux with no gear). can someone clarify?
north_country_boy
Well-Known Member
Fultonius said:
It was indeed on saturday, good work from the steely fingered youth!
Rice Boy
Well-Known Member
dave said:
Right at the bottom of the article tis quoted saying "Additional note (added after an email question): We also used a small step ladder, laid flat on the floor to fill a hole."
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dave
Guest
nice, that's been added since i read it.
El Mocho
Well-Known Member
good effort to all the other puns getting stuff done, especially the superbloc.
Just to back up what Fiend said
After our extensive testing of the slider this turned into a pretty safe thing although I think Pete saying E7 is possibly a little low (although it is Pete so what you would expect) Comparing to other E7 7as such as Little Woman and Groove is in the Heart (fell off the last move on wed) it felt very slightly easier, Fb7b+ rather than Fb7c?, but a fair bit bolder - both the above are very safe, lots of runners and short falls, the Promise has one ok runner and a ground sweeping (although quite short!) fall. We only felt happy taking the fall on the Promise after a few 'practice' falls from right by it and with 5 pads and a ladder below (I would have been happy with no or one pad on the sunday)
I think for James' ascent (not trusting the runner, no pads) you could prabably add an E grade or two (I am sure with UKB grade SCIENCE we could work out how many exactly).
Just to back up what Fiend said
Fiend said:
After our extensive testing of the slider this turned into a pretty safe thing although I think Pete saying E7 is possibly a little low (although it is Pete so what you would expect) Comparing to other E7 7as such as Little Woman and Groove is in the Heart (fell off the last move on wed) it felt very slightly easier, Fb7b+ rather than Fb7c?, but a fair bit bolder - both the above are very safe, lots of runners and short falls, the Promise has one ok runner and a ground sweeping (although quite short!) fall. We only felt happy taking the fall on the Promise after a few 'practice' falls from right by it and with 5 pads and a ladder below (I would have been happy with no or one pad on the sunday)
I think for James' ascent (not trusting the runner, no pads) you could prabably add an E grade or two (I am sure with UKB grade SCIENCE we could work out how many exactly).
For the record I reckon its E8 7a. Though with the disclaimer that I haven't done that much in those numbers, but its definitely a good deal harder than EOTA! Fb 7b+ is about right.
I didn't trust the ballnut that much, but thought I'd prob be ok having seen Jack wing off it, so went for it after linking it for the first time (i'd had a few goes on the moves on a rope the previous weekend). Someone else has clearly been trying it cos there was loads more chalk on it than last weekend, and on some "non sequence" holds.
The gear fell out on me mid crux, having had a pull test from the floor, after it had been placed "on lead".
Something to watch now is that the placement is pretty scarred after Sunday's GU antics and I wouldn't be surprised if the next size up fits now or soon if people continue to wing onto it, whether that contributed to it falling out on me or not I don't know, I'm just glad I didn't take the solo fall onto the pads which wouldn't have been in the right place.
I didn't trust the ballnut that much, but thought I'd prob be ok having seen Jack wing off it, so went for it after linking it for the first time (i'd had a few goes on the moves on a rope the previous weekend). Someone else has clearly been trying it cos there was loads more chalk on it than last weekend, and on some "non sequence" holds.
The gear fell out on me mid crux, having had a pull test from the floor, after it had been placed "on lead".
Something to watch now is that the placement is pretty scarred after Sunday's GU antics and I wouldn't be surprised if the next size up fits now or soon if people continue to wing onto it, whether that contributed to it falling out on me or not I don't know, I'm just glad I didn't take the solo fall onto the pads which wouldn't have been in the right place.
Sloper
Well-Known Member
Good effort on the ascent, please don't take the following as criticism it's not, just a genuine question, do you feel that the route is E8 with hole covered with a ladder and then padded out or E8 without the ladder and pads?
Appropos of nothing I see that no one is saying superblock can't be E8 because it's only x high.....
Appropos of nothing I see that no one is saying superblock can't be E8 because it's only x high.....
All route grades are based on the theoretical baseline position of onsight with no pads. I assume everyone is sticking to this convention when they suggest grades.Sloper said:
No problem.
I didn't have the ladder/pads in the hole, just 2 pads covering the block you start off (assuming the same as the yanks) and an extra one on the block behind I thought I might smack my head on. I was intending to put a lid on but thought it would annoy me so swapped the helmet for a pad on the boulder. (add that into the UKB E grading science algorithm!)
Comparing The Promise to routes of similar grades I've done and in the style I did it in I felt it definitely justified E8 (and probably right at the top of the grade) in terms of E for overall effort (which is in reality all you can do on headpoint). If EOTA is benchmark E8 (and its been that for c.22 years and no-one's really argued) then The Promise felt harder in terms of E for effort. Comparing the two directly (and for the record I've done both in very similar style) they are at opposite ends of E8. And as its a direct comparison then the same applies within reason to the theoretical onsight as there's nothing hidden in either route. Both are sequency, easyish once you know how, gear is not tricky to place, possible injury etc
Doing it with so many pads/ladder covering hole etc then maybe it would feel easier but I'd feel a bit bold and dare I say it inflammatory giving it E7. But, I didn't GU and Pete has way more experience in the lofty grades than me.
Had the gear been kicked out on one of the GU ascents/Jack's attempts would we be having the same discussion? E9?
Comparing it to superstition yeah its not E8, but given that (AFAIK) no-one but Miles can even do the damn thing top rope or no top rope would anyone be arguing with superstition getting E9 or possibly harder? Same goes for superbloc. All it does say is that its desperate to grade all these bouldery, potentially dangerous, super highball routes.
Anyway, it looks like I've just walked my way into a grade debate I didn't much want to get into. I do think The Promise has got some awesome moves on it and I really enjoyed climbing it. So thanks to James for putting it up. I'm just hoping nobody spanners themselves in this craze we've got going on. Take care out there and for God's sake enjoy it.
I didn't have the ladder/pads in the hole, just 2 pads covering the block you start off (assuming the same as the yanks) and an extra one on the block behind I thought I might smack my head on. I was intending to put a lid on but thought it would annoy me so swapped the helmet for a pad on the boulder. (add that into the UKB E grading science algorithm!)
Comparing The Promise to routes of similar grades I've done and in the style I did it in I felt it definitely justified E8 (and probably right at the top of the grade) in terms of E for overall effort (which is in reality all you can do on headpoint). If EOTA is benchmark E8 (and its been that for c.22 years and no-one's really argued) then The Promise felt harder in terms of E for effort. Comparing the two directly (and for the record I've done both in very similar style) they are at opposite ends of E8. And as its a direct comparison then the same applies within reason to the theoretical onsight as there's nothing hidden in either route. Both are sequency, easyish once you know how, gear is not tricky to place, possible injury etc
Doing it with so many pads/ladder covering hole etc then maybe it would feel easier but I'd feel a bit bold and dare I say it inflammatory giving it E7. But, I didn't GU and Pete has way more experience in the lofty grades than me.
Had the gear been kicked out on one of the GU ascents/Jack's attempts would we be having the same discussion? E9?
Comparing it to superstition yeah its not E8, but given that (AFAIK) no-one but Miles can even do the damn thing top rope or no top rope would anyone be arguing with superstition getting E9 or possibly harder? Same goes for superbloc. All it does say is that its desperate to grade all these bouldery, potentially dangerous, super highball routes.
Anyway, it looks like I've just walked my way into a grade debate I didn't much want to get into. I do think The Promise has got some awesome moves on it and I really enjoyed climbing it. So thanks to James for putting it up. I'm just hoping nobody spanners themselves in this craze we've got going on. Take care out there and for God's sake enjoy it.
nodder
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"All it does say is that its desperate to grade all these bouldery, potentially dangerous, super highball routes"
Cant be that hard look at em all
e10/7a /font 8a/v11
e8/7a/font 7b+/v8+
8b/ V8/9
e7/7a
5.something r
See thats 14 grades for it.
We all clear now. Good...
Cant be that hard look at em all
e10/7a /font 8a/v11
e8/7a/font 7b+/v8+
8b/ V8/9
e7/7a
5.something r
See thats 14 grades for it.
We all clear now. Good...
