significant repeats

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abarro81 said:
Just ones with 'doubts' I believe: Bernabe Fernandez (Chilam Balam) and Fred Rouling (Akira)
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/9b.php
Click to expand...

No doubts on Chilam Balam, the Ondra machine repeated and said 9b (low end!). Bernabe Fernandez gave it 9b+ at the time and was flamed for it. Well harsh in hindsight as he was only half a grade out. Also I seem to remember Sharma and Andrada failing to repeat it a few months before:
VIDEO: BD athlete Adam Ondra repeating Chilam Balam (9b) and making the first ascent of La Planta de Shiva (9b) in Spain on Vimeo
 
ianv said:
I thought those rouling "doubts" had been put to bed and were now accepted as huber sour grapes.
Click to expand...

I think most people accept that Akira was climbed now and quite possibly is 9b, however doesn't it fall into the boulder / route hybrid catagory.
 
Clart said:
No doubts on Chilam Balam, the Ondra machine repeated and said 9b (low end!). Bernabe Fernandez gave it 9b+ at the time and was flamed for it. Well harsh in hindsight as he was only half a grade out. Also I seem to remember Sharma and Andrada failing to repeat it a few months before:
Click to expand...

Aren't there still doubts about whether Fernandez actually climbed it (lone wolf, no witnesses / unknow belayer etc)?

In the end it looks like the main point re Ondra and Sharma stands - they've both climbed multiple 9bs and now 9b+ while there are no other top current climbers who've managed to even climb 1 9b 'proper' route.
 
IanP said:
Aren't there still doubts about whether Fernandez actually climbed it (lone wolf, no witnesses / unknow belayer etc)?
Click to expand...
Yes, I think that most doubts were about Fernandez's actual ascent. I read Andrada's comments in an old Desnivel issue, and he said he'd been on the route, and had found no trace of chalk or rubber in the higher part of the route. That, to him, did not go well with Fernandez saying he'd tried the route for two years or so...
 
http://www.facebook.com/climblox.sheffield

[quote author=Chris Webb-Parsons]

Great night session at Badger Cove last night. Epic walk in through 1 meter deep snow to find the crag dry. 11pm and last attempt of the night and I had success on Dandelion Mind 8B+/V14. Then after an Icy drive home and feeling tired we found ourselves locked out the house so I had to climb the side of the house and break in through a window. A successful night of climbing..
[/quote]
 
shark said:
http://www.facebook.com/climblox.sheffield

[quote author=Chris Webb-Parsons]

Great night session at Badger Cove last night. Epic walk in through 1 meter deep snow to find the crag dry. 11pm and last attempt of the night and I had success on Dandelion Mind 8B+/V14. Then after an Icy drive home and feeling tired we found ourselves locked out the house so I had to climb the side of the house and break in through a window. A successful night of climbing..
Click to expand...
[/quote]

3rd ascent.
 

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