significant repeats

[Fiend]

Good stuff :2thumbsup:

 

[Adam Lincoln]

James Pearson knocked off The New (or Elder?) Statesman at Curbar today in some style. Is this the second ascent? He used a similar method to McClure, but seemed to get onto the arete quicker (maybe by virtue of being taller).

On a related note - why did the name of this route change?

Steve Dunning has done it.

 

[slackline]

On a related note - why did the name of this route change?

Has it? Thought New Statesman was at Ilkley, and Elder Statesman at Curbar (which climbs out of Elder Crack). :shrug:

 

[lukeyboy]

There is a route called The New Statesman at Ilkley, but I think Wil is right - the one which Steve Mac did at Curbar (which goes onto the arete from Elder Crack) was originally called The Elder Statesman but was then changed (to The New Statesman?).

Not sure why, as The Elder Statesman was quite an apt name. Would be interested if anyone else knows more...

 

[Bonjoy]

I've never heard of this name change. Who/what/where is this idea from?

 

[Wil]

There's a note in eastern grit to that effect. I haven't got the definitive guide to know what that says.

 

[cofe]

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=22410

 

[duncan]

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=22410

Typo?

It's Elder Statesman in the proper guide.

I watched Steve Dunning do the second ascent. Connies were impressively miserable, windy and showery, I was having difficulty removing hands from pockets to attempt something 17 grades easier. He cheated his way up Elder Crack though, face-climbing around it and never once getting in and grovelling in the approved sequence.

 

[Stubbs]

I watched Steve Dunning do the second ascent.

Impressive bit of footage from before HD was a thing

Steve Dunning Elder arete HXS 7a 2nd ascent

 

[remus]

jan hojer has a good day in ticino: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67842

Perhaps more accurately a 'significant quantity of repeats'.

 

[andi_e]

Crivens!

 

[slackline]

:bow: :clap2:

 

[SA Chris]

But every few hundred millennia, evolution leaps forward.

 

[finbarrr]

i had the pleasure of seeing Jan Hojer climb on a rest day in bleau last year.
he couldn't help himself, constantly climbing stuff that his friends were trying, on his sneakers.
just up to 7A-B, sometimes campussing for fun.

 

[tim palmer]

i had the pleasure of seeing Jan Hojer climb on a rest day in bleau last year.
he couldn't help himself, constantly climbing stuff that his friends were trying, on his sneakers.
just up to 7A-B, sometimes campussing for fun.

Yeah climbed with him (very breifly) in swizzy this winter, he seemed a very nice guy

 

[andy popp]

jan hojer has a good day in ticino: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67842

Perhaps more accurately a 'significant quantity of repeats'.

And then The Dagger this morning (i.e. the next day), which he thought was 8B.

 

[Stubbs]

From Facebook Dave Sutcliffe has repeated Cindy Crawford at Ilkley

Does anyone know if Keenus did this back in the day, or is this the second ascent? Looks great with chalk on anyway, I had always assumed it was a fantastical line on a topo until recently!

 

[Bonjoy]

It's an amazing line. Crazy that it sees so little attention. Maybe it will get a rush of interest now...

 

[Tommy]

Brilliant. Nice one Dave.

 

[fatdoc]

I watched Steve Dunning do the second ascent.

Impressive bit of footage from before HD was a thing

Steve Dunning Elder arete HXS 7a 2nd ascent

No doubt he did it,
But wasn't the later half cut so it was on TR?