Significant First Ascents

[remus]

It's interesting he's mentioned 9a+ in that most recent insta post, he said 9a when he announced it originally Wonder whether he's fishing around for some bigger numbers?

 

[Wellsy]

That is incredible, can't believe he didn't just crack on through the pain!

Looked pretty bad, like maybe a nasty rotator cuff tear, I can understand him backing off from that!

 

[remus]

Aidan Roberts has polished off an open project in Yosemite, previously called the Shoulder Boulder, to give A long Way for a Little Guy 8C. I think it might be the first 8C in Yosemite? Fairly sure Carlo Traversi skipped a grade when he put up The Dark Side just over a year ago and suggested 8C+.

https://www.patreon.com/posts/aidan-sending-in-118646886

https://www.patreon.com/posts/aidans-janky-2-120613966

 

[owensum]

Looks fantastic! Pablo Hammack put up Love Will Tear Us Apart V15 in Yose in 2021.

 

[remus]

Mat Wright has climbed a new E9 called One Inch Punch at the Pass of Ballater.

A few details of the line on UKC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/pass_of_ballater-79/one_inch_punch-753845

 

[lukeyboy]

If that's what middle age looks like, fucking bring it on!!

Edit: tried to quote Duncan's Sharma post but failed, still working out this new forum

 

[SA Chris]

Mat Wright has climbed a new E9 called One Inch Punch at the Pass of Ballater.

A few details of the line on UKC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/pass_of_ballater-79/one_inch_punch-753845

Apparently Julian Lines pointed him at the line. Must be hard in that case. New to be released Ballater Guide is already out of date...

 

[Fiend]

1 hold, 2 move (one of those is a hand match) minimalist 8B wonder from jimpopenotonarope.

"I had to really dig deep into the physics of this move....maybe even quantum physics"

 

[RobK]

Looks like Mark Katz has done the longstanding central project at Pantymwyn. River Runs Dry.

Edit: originally linked to insta but think his profile is set to private.

 

[Fiend]

https://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=1092

Good report.

 

[SA Chris]

Reading about Mark Katz doing FAs on NWB, Fat Sloper Action promising new kit, it's like the 00s never went away..

 

[remus]

Tim Blake has added a hard link to the Cashmere boulder in North Wales. Starts up Hippocampus (which broke in 2023 making it a fair bit harder) before finishing up Way of the Hippo. Declarative Memory 8B+.

 

[Pantontino]

https://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=1093

News item includes FA vid of Declarative Memory.

 

[MarkJ]

Reading about Mark Katz doing FAs on NWB, Fat Sloper Action promising new kit, it's like the 00s never went away..

It is heart-warming stuff. Sorely needed.

 

[Duncan campbell]

Looks like Mark Katz has done the longstanding central project at Pantymwyn. River Runs Dry.

Edit: originally linked to insta but think his profile is set to private.

Nice that he used Sam’s name for it… also such a great effort from Sam nearly doing it…

 

[Moo]

Pretty psyched for fsa making a comeback, my Ford capri bouldering T shirt is on it’s a last legs……… a bit like me.

Always great to hear of a comeback story big up the Katz

 

[spidermonkey09]

If it took Katz that long it sounds harder than 8B to me!

 

[MarkJ]

Maybe Mark has been pursuing marginal gains with Mike 'The Lace' Mace :
https://web.archive.org/web/20040822161645/http://www.fatsloperaction.com/Lacing.html
We must wait for the film.