Significant First Ascents

[Adam Lincoln]

What's the relevance of never having done anything hard outside of the USA, in reference to his grade opinion on a hard boulder *in* the USA?

Different styles, different rock. Anyway I have my opinion thats he unexperienced and came across cocky in his comment. Not trying to convince anyone, it's just my personal opinion.

Someone thats climbed hard all over the world has more cred when it comes to talking so matter of fact about grades.

 

[JamieG]

Was he just trying to defend Sean? Basically saying the individual sections are roughly these grade, so to link them is tough and going to be a big number.

 

[SA Chris]

Nothing hard outside the USA apart from the 8Bish stuff in Rocklands? Or is 8B not hard any more, and 8A approaching a rest?

 

[Adam Lincoln]

Nothing hard outside the USA apart from the 8Bish stuff in Rocklands? Or is 8B not hard any more, and 8A approaching a rest?

Not when you've done 9A. Be like a font 8A climber going abroad and doing a 7B. They wouldn't deem that hard.

 

[edshakey]

Tbf, he has done 8C in Rocklands.

He's also done 9A at the crag next door. I'd have thought that kind of thing would be useful, compared to a few boulders on a holiday abroad. We probably wouldn't question someone discussing something hard up at Burbage if they'd done something equally hard at Stanage, a load of things in the Lakes and Wales, but nothing in the US.

 

[Andy F]

Adam sounds like a certain someone who is banned from UKC over such views.

 

[Adam Lincoln]

Adam sounds like a certain someone who is banned from UKC over such views.

What you on about?

 

[Fiend]

'At least high 16' amazes me how some people have such understanding/granularity on grading

Seems legit to me?? Trying to find out what the issue is on speculating this sort of vagueness based on their experience of similar grades...

 

[Andy F]

Why you making crap up Andy?

You're wrong about the ban, Adam.
And, as someone who knows a thing or two about people claiming big numbers having only climbed in one area, you're not going to win this argument. At least I was on solid ground with my arguments.

 

[Adam Lincoln]

You're wrong about the ban, Adam.
And, as someone who knows a thing or two about people claiming big numbers having only climbed in one area, you're not going to win this argument. At least I was on solid ground with my arguments.

Not banging the Franco drum again are you. Jesus don't you ever get bored?

 

[Andy F]

Aren't you doing exactly the same thing, but with far less backing? Give it a rest, you're onto a loser. The bloke clearly has history and talent on his side. Franco had talent but no history at the time.

 

[Adam Lincoln]

Aren't you doing exactly the same thing, but with far less backing? Give it a rest, you're onto a loser. The bloke clearly has history and talent on his side. Franco had talent but no history at the time.

You only post on the internet when there's Franco bashing to be had . You've been doing it for 10 years! Ive only mentioned the above the last 24h's

 

[JamieG]

Another new 9a.

 

[Wellsy]

Sick, what a great looking bit of rock too

 

[webbo]

That must be one of the easiest problems to set a replica on a board.

 

[Fiend]

Is 9A the new 8C+(hard)/9A??

 

[Fiend]

It does look very cool. Do the number add up? I don't know how they're calculated these days. Also for the love of God can people please capitalise the letters - 9A

 

[RobK]

It does look very cool. Do the number add up? I don't know how they're calculated these days. Also for the love of God can people please capitalise the letters - 9A

Comes out as just nudging into 9A on darth grader.

The bit that interested me was "but with much more adverse environmental conditions". I get that this can make it much more challenging but shouldn't really come into the grade at all IMO. Hard to separate the two sometimes I guess.

But what Wellsy said, amazing looking bloc.

 

[JamieG]

It does look very cool. Do the number add up? I don't know how they're calculated these days. Also for the love of God can people please capitalise the letters - 9A

I don’t think I wAnt to. I don’t like the wAy it looks.

 

[remus]

The bit that interested me was "but with much more adverse environmental conditions". I get that this can make it much more challenging but shouldn't really come into the grade at all IMO. Hard to separate the two sometimes I guess.

I think it's kinda impossible to separate out the environmental conditions from the difficulty. Maybe it would be 8C/+ in pristine conditions, but short of someone inventing teleportation it's never going to get climbed in those conditions so guessing a grade for those theoretical perfect conditions doesn't make sense.