Significant First Ascents

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jwi said:
Dingdong said:
I wonder if it would see a downgrade. Hard to imagine you can flash something as complex as that with the absolute best beta possible. Surely the o dawg will find a kneebar :lol:

The bolter suggested 8c+/9a, but after the flash Seb went up again to dog the route to check what it felt like with optimal sequences and suggested hard 8c+.

Ah nice, good to see he went back to clean up the sequence. I was surprised as usually when worked FAs go up people still seem to find new sequences, guess this could still be the case possibly. Amazing feat anyways. Can’t imagine what it must feel like to flash something that hard :jaw:
 
Somehow I'd totally missed that one of Scotland's under the radar dark horses had completed his long-standing E10 projects on the Aberdeen seacliffs. One for Remus' list: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/long_haven_quarries-3201/coldfinger-683151

Nice one Gordy. (Lennox)

Despite having just checked the list I somehow totally missed that it was on there.... :chair:
 
Mat Wright has climbed a new E10 called Black Thistle in Glen Nevis.

Goes up the blunt arete of Pandora's Buttress, to the right of Dave Mac's Misadventure (E8). Possibly to a shared finish? I saw his rope on this a couple of weeks ago, kinda surprised it hadn't been done by the Mac previously as it's very conspicuous, even from the road.
 
Good knowledge. Noticed some hints on his insta a few weeks ago and been waiting for some more detail to emerge.
 
Horrendous time of year to have a hard project at Polldubh! Lucky for him there have been a decent number of breezy days.
 
Another new 8C in the South West for Solly

https://www.instagram.com/p/CwlEFB4NKhs/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

Seen some other pics floating about, looks like an incredible bit of coastal rock.
 
andy moles said:
Mat Wright has climbed a new E10 called Black Thistle in Glen Nevis.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/08/black_thistle_e10_7a_-_first_ascent_by_mat_wright-73432

full splab now here.

starting climbing had to wait until I was old enough to take my own path at sixteen.
strange that this would be regarded as old these days. I was 20 before I knew rock climbing was even a thing.
 
SA Chris said:
starting climbing had to wait until I was old enough to take my own path at sixteen.
strange that this would be regarded as old these days. I was 20 before I knew rock climbing was even a thing.

To be fair there's nothing said there about 16 being old in the grand scheme of things, only that it was later than he would have liked for realising his dreams/legacy etc.

Though no doubt 16 is a late start for someone climbing that hard.
 
Bradders said:
Another new 8C in the South West for Solly

https://www.instagram.com/p/CwlEFB4NKhs/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

Seen some other pics floating about, looks like an incredible bit of coastal rock.
It really is a great piece of rock tucked away in a very unlikely cranny (the approach is impossible to describe!).. More than just an 8c there and more than just that steep board (stuff for mortals also). The holds on Solly's problem are as ratty as they come, very impressive stuff, incredible in fact. Sounds wonderful doesn't it?
Unfortunately, there is a perfectly shaped gully/ constriction that diverts any swell into a sheet of water that lands directly on the board and you. Unexpected soakings abound. So hard to get conditions right.
 
Another new on from Solly: Apple Crumble 8B. https://www.instagram.com/p/CxLOFXEtleS/

Looks cool but the name doesn't inspire a lot of confidence in the rock quality :lol:
 
Finally, a boulder that actually sounds like choss!

This is like the amalgamation of Fiend’s lived life experiences and his “wish he had lived” life experiences on a board. Beautiful stuff
 
Jen Wood has made the FA of a line on Hvar, Croatia and suggested 8c. No name as yet. Hardest FA by a British woman I think?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxVrNaItlE6/
 
remus said:
Looks cool but the name doesn't inspire a lot of confidence in the rock quality :lol:

It looks quite eliminate unless I'm overestimating the stuff that's used for feet higher up (the LH looking rib/arete)?
 
Felix linked Persian Dawn 8c+ into Hajj 8c at the Tor earlier today. No grade yet but must be 9a min
 
Nice. Good link opportunity in to Kaa'bah too. Has anyone done the links from MiF in to Mecca extension/hajj/Kaa'bah before?
 
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