Significant First Ascents

[lukeyboy]

Matt Helliker has added a new line to Doyden Point on the north Cornwall coast that he's called Anapanasati. He's suggested E9.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CuzqslttiXk/

It sounds like all the options on a UKB poll rolled into one

 

[Jordan]

Quality comment

 

[jwi]

I know nothing, but I do know that no 7c+ has a 7B boulder on top

 

[remus]

I know nothing, but I do know that no 7c+ has a 7B boulder on top

 

[Fiend]

What does E-Grader (or logic) give for a Font 7B boulder problem with over 12m groundfall potential??

P.S. Lovely coastline / climbing around there and great to see exciting and dubiously graded developments!

 

[jwi]

I know nothing, but I do know that no 7c+ has a 7B boulder on top

Hahaha. I would give it 8a.

 

[haydn jones]

That sounds exactly like the pinch test at water cum jolly which is 7c+ and definitely not 8a

 

[AMorris]

Dunno if it has been mentioned elsewhere, but Leo Skinner has done the direct start (from tourists jug) to Pool of Bethesda at 8B+. OG beta on Pool, if anyone is wondering.

 

[spidermonkey09]

That sounds exactly like the pinch test at water cum jolly which is 7c+ and definitely not 8a

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/water-cum-jolly-140/the_pinch_test-149413

 

[haydn jones]

Yes I know it's in UKC as 8a which is why I was saying it's definitely not. It

 

[lukeyboy]

This is pretty cool - whilst 8c+ may not be significant in itself, it's a very good flash, and (I assume) rare for a high standard sport route to be flashed for it's FA.

https://gripped.com/news/bouin-flashes-5-14c-first-ascent-in-france/

 

[Duma]

Thought the fact his previous best flash was 8b+ was more astonishing to be honest! Who on earth has more than a number grade between RP and flash??

 

[jwi]

8c+ first go is world class. There are likely fewer than a dozen climbers who have done this. (From the top of my head: Midtbø, Becan(?), Usobiaga, Julián Puigblanqué, Schubert, Ondra, Megos, hmm... can't think of more)

 

[Duma]

Of course. But it's also 5 grades below his RP level.

 

[jwi]

Thought the fact his previous best flash was 8b+ was more astonishing to be honest! Who on earth has more than a number grade between RP and flash??

A red point specialist? Stefano Ghisolphi has almost the same difference. I must say that I am a bit sceptical about the info that Seb's best flash previous was 8b+. He onsighted 8c when he was a teenager, and downgraded it of course, but I don't know if the downgrade stuck.

 

[Dingdong]

I wonder if it would see a downgrade. Hard to imagine you can flash something as complex as that with the absolute best beta possible. Surely the o dawg will find a kneebar :lol:

 

[Ally Smith]

Tom O'Halloran has completed his multi year project "Hump of Trouble" in the blue mountains.

https://youtube.com/@TomOHalloranAus

No grade yet, but described by him as V13 into V13 with no rest in his recent podcast with Sam & Aiden.

Darth Grader suggests 9b+?!?

 

[Liamhutch89]

Tom O'Halloran has completed his multi year project "Hump of Trouble" in the blue mountains.

https://youtube.com/@TomOHalloranAus

No grade yet, but described by him as V13 into V13 with no rest in his recent podcast with Sam & Aiden.

Darth Grader suggests 9b+?!?

vid of the moves - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WOJVknSsHs

 

[Wellsy]

Is it a route or a boulder? Vid won't play for me

Edit: ah route I see

 

[jwi]

I wonder if it would see a downgrade. Hard to imagine you can flash something as complex as that with the absolute best beta possible. Surely the o dawg will find a kneebar :lol:

The bolter suggested 8c+/9a, but after the flash Seb went up again to dog the route to check what it felt like with optimal sequences and suggested hard 8c+.