Routes cleaned or re-equipped

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andy popp said:
Good effort. Did you like for like it, e.g. is still just 4 bolts and quite big runouts?

There's a couple of extras - one at the start & a dogging bolt at the crux. I like the look of Boobs as well, will be getting on that. Did it ever get a repeat? :-\
 
The Ogre is a great route

JC said:
I like the look of Boobs as well, will be getting on that. Did it ever get a repeat? :-\

At last! I've been trying to get people to try this for years, to no avail. Will be interested to know what you think (it should dry quicker than the Ogre, being a bit more open). Never heard of any repeats. Al Murray told me he'd found it 'very genetic'. I took this to mean he couldn't do it.
 
Had a play on Boobs today Andy. Did all the moves ok, but didn't go for the redpoint cos it was bloody freezing! lol Like the style of climbing though, a bit like Long Tor Quarry. Found the last section to the lower-off the trickiest bit. Super technical footwork required. Will hopefully get back there when its slightly warmer! :-\
 
I found the moves through the lower bulge (small right hand edge and little ear next to it, v. small feet?) the technical crux but the top (shared with Boo) is definitely the redpoint crux. I fell off there a few times on redpoint despite already having done Boo first go.
 
On the grit side of things replaced the tat on the bolts and peg on 'Adam Smiths Invisible Hand'. Although the bolts are ancient they didn't seem to bad, and the climbing is ace.

Nice conversion from gritstone season stuff to Limestone season as it is essentialy a f7b grit arete!
 
Whats the DL on that Douggy Hall route on (nettle butress?). had all the bolts stripped by G Hoey ages ago... E7 never knew alot about lime... tried this with the bolts just before they were tugged out,,, any repeats...
thought it was 8a (f)
 
El Mocho said:
On the grit side of things replaced the tat on the bolts and peg on 'Adam Smiths Invisible Hand'. Although the bolts are ancient they didn't seem to bad, and the climbing is ace.

nice one. care to elaborate on the reliability of the bolts as far as you can? Or the difficulty level compared to, say, Mother's Pride? Fancy a go GU / flash and would like to know what i'd be letting my self in for....
 
fatboySlimfast said:
From what I remember the crux is next to the bolts so really more like a slump on to the rope, still bit cheeky higher up though......the crux move is amazing

True. The hardest section is passing the third bolt so you would just sag onto top bolt (and there are two more to slow you down if it rips!) Although I didn't bounce test them they did seem pretty good - they don't look like they are going to snap but I don't know how deep they go.

I hadn't looked at the moves when I replaced the tat so gave it a kinda flash attempt. Felt quite a hard move to get to clip the third bolt and I then wanted to down climb and realised I had got a bit high so lowered off. I then did it straight off the go after. If you can clip the 3rd from low/down climb I think the flash is well on. It is a little more comitting getting to the peg - you will actually fall onto the bolt rather than sag - the climbing is easier although still 6a or so.

The crux section is very nice, as is all the route.

creamtime said:
Or the difficulty level compared to, say, Mother's Pride?

I onsighted Mothers Pride last week which was more of a battle for me (I was pumped stupid on the top and didn't really trust the pegs that much) whilst second go on Adams it felt ok (although obviously I didn't flash it!) Also did Perplexity at the weekend and it felt the easiest of the three.
 
I think a couple of people have on-sighted it in the past but I am struggling to remeber who.
Anyone tried Winters Grip, looks good with some pro on it as well, think Fatdoc did it in the 80's, one for on-sighting as well I rekon
 
Graham Hoey told me there was a very good hand-placed blade on Winter's Grip - or maybe two? He thought it was a pretty steady lead with those.

Such an idea would never have occurred to me in 1984, which is why I soloed it - which felt pretty spicy (no mats in those days). Mind you, headpointing hadn't been invented then either, though that is effectively what I did....!

It was a classic cold, crisp gritstone day, with FA's of Quality Street, Winter's Grip and The Crypt Trip all going down.

Neil
 
In baltic conditions this morning I cleaned 'clock people' at millstone. It was so cold I nearly lost my fingers. I couldn't decide weather to clean this or go to crag x so I am kinda hopeing it was wet there as it would make me feel better about the state my gear and rope is in now (ie covered in shit)

Cleaned the bottom half pretty well, but just the holds on the top section (so if you drag your foot when moving it will be filthy) but it was proper raining at the time and all very green so it will prob need a quick brush when it is dry (it would probably benefit from a better clean to the top section as well but I doubt if I can be arsed)

Looks pretty safe and technical, take your rps.

I was thinking about cleaning the E7 further left - the fall but don't bounce one - as it sounds classic but I seem to remember it is in a similar condition to the clock people wall...
 
FBSF - I headpointed winter's grip sometime in 2002 I think. There's 2 slots that take hand placed pegs - #2 knifeblades (the CAMP ones, Black Diamond are too thin) are what you need. I climbed it starting on the right (as have others I've talked to) but I seem to remember discussing it with Neil on UKC a few years ago and he stayed on the left all the way.

It's safe and has nice moves the way I did it, can't comment on what it's like on the other side though.
 
El Mocho said:
I was thinking about cleaning the E7 further left - the fall but don't bounce one - as it sounds classic but I seem to remember it is in a similar condition to the clock people wall...

The Bad and the Beautiful...
The best route Ive ever done.
 
hasn't something broken on bad and beautiful or am I imagining reading something to that effect?
 
nic mullin said:
FBSF - I headpointed winter's grip sometime in 2002 I think. There's 2 slots that take hand placed pegs - #2 knifeblades (the CAMP ones, Black Diamond are too thin) are what you need. I climbed it starting on the right (as have others I've talked to) but I seem to remember discussing it with Neil on UKC a few years ago and he stayed on the left all the way.

It's safe and has nice moves the way I did it, can't comment on what it's like on the other side though.

Yes, I did climb it on the left, which felt the obvious way to me back then. I seem to remember hanging a small crimp out left, and slapping several times up the upper arete with my right, until a final slap brought me back into balance, and able to let go of the crimp without instantly barndooring towards Lawrencefield..... I've some old school pics of the FA somewhere - resplendent in hairy green Helly trousers!
 

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