'Rock Climbing in Ireland'

[Dave Flanagan]

I'm working on a guide to the best of Irish climbing. It should be finished by October or November. I would be very keen to get input from any UKBers who have climbed in Ireland, visitors tend to have a good objective point of view.

From general feedback on what crags are worth visiting and what aren't to specifics of routes and grades. Plus if anyone has any good photos I would love to see them.

If anyone is planning to come over here trad climbing over the summer feel free to get in touch and I can send you drafts of the areas you are visiting.

 

[SA Chris]

I've only climbed at Glendalough, Hollywood (?) Ailadie left wing and Murroughkilly, but can have a look if you want?

 

[Hoseyb]

I've always thought a proper climbing road trip in Ireland would be a good idea once the kids are more manageable.

So far I've only visited Fairhead (awesome, x-men is a definitely worth including imho as a maybe less obvious classic) but all the crags in underdeveloped i guess are no brainers.

If its going to be a proper road trip then some crags in Cork and Kerry should be included (been hearing some buzz about sea cliffs down there..)

Ooh, getting excited now, only a couple more years to go...

 

[Dave Flanagan]

I think Ireland is a good spot for a multi-sport trip, climb if it's dry go biking or surfing otherwise.

There are some serious cliffs on the coast of Cork and Kerry but very little climbing has been done, I'm considering covering one or two of the more hardcore adventure routes but for the most part I would think that the best climbing is yet to be done (or at least documented).

 

[SA Chris]

That's a great looking piece of rock.

 

[Neil F]

Gosh, that was a surprise! Me (in a former life) belaying Ian Parsons on the first ascent of Shelf Life...

The arête to the right is a fantastic E4 of John Fleming's, called The Recidivist. I seem to remember John and Chris Jackson telling me about that line, in what felt like an open invitation. They abbed down to set up the belay (so I thought), but by the time me and Ian got down John was already halfway up the pitch! I think Shelf Life was our consolation prize. The very overhanging arête to the right of Recidivist is the start of Gael Force, a brilliant E6 which was the hardest line we did that memorable trip.

The corners and flakes to the left of Shelf Life are a tremendous 3 pitch E5 called The Longest Day...

Great memories and a fantastic cliff. Let me know if you want any more info Dave, and good luck with your guidebook.

Neil

 

[Dave Flanagan]

Small world Neil. Route looks amazing, I'm about to send you a PM.