DavidM said:
Thats interesting post Probes and similar to mine apart from waking / sleep timing. I regularly stretch for 45 mins as well that helps. Roll out the back and glutes daily etc which really helps lower back.
-Are you just bouldering or route climbing as well?
-The power nap do you fall asleep or just resting before the board session?
-The board endurance training schedule you mention- 2/3 days on and then 4 off. Is this endurance for bouldering or for route climbing. If bouldering what endurance exercises do you prefer or found successful? Do you have 4 days complete rest in this cycle?
- What does a boulders de-load week look like in practice.? Is it same intensity but halving the amounts of sessions? Or do you dial back both.?
thanks petejh I thought I would be covered with a decent clean diet including enough meat and shellfish to cover the zinc requirements. Will consider and try that.
-Are you just bouldering or route climbing as well?
Atm I'm just bouldering, but always with routes in the back of my mind. Life/time has just dictated that. I also have an ongoing saga of a Longridge traverse project, that I put effort into every year, so I try to keep a level where if and when I'm on it, I can get back up to speed endurance wise in a couple of months.
-The power nap do you fall asleep or just resting before the board session? Flat out snooring my head off, much to the annoyance of partner. There's usually True & the Rainbow Kingdom blarring on tele and some sort of super hero fight going on on the other settee.
-The board endurance training schedule you mention- 2/3 days on and then 4 off. Is this endurance for bouldering or for route climbing. If bouldering what endurance exercises do you prefer or found successful? Do you have 4 days complete rest in this cycle?
Its short period power endurance ( an cap? or whatever they call it these days

) 20-30 moves 1-2mins on. 4 times the rest. Aim for 6 to 8 of these, and I should be failing on the last couple if I've gauged it right. I do occasionally do switch to longer endurance (4+mins) but my board is a 50 and it ends up just jug hauling. I also have longridge 5 mins away so do that there. Yeah I usually do take about 4 off after a few days of this, unless I feel an easy session is ok or I just need to get on the board. It doesn't do my max finger strength much good but for all round fitness/strength I find it invaluable.
- What does a boulders de-load week look like in practice.? Is it same intensity but halving the amounts of sessions? Or do you dial back both.? How do you mean here? A resting/easy week?
In terms of bouldering and strength, if that's what I'm on with.. the one thing I've become far more aware of is gauging how you feel on the warm up, and this dictates what Ill do in the session. The plan is go for max but if I'm not for pulling really hard and don't feel fresh enough too, Ill switch straight to some strength type problems and exercises. That way I know I can get an hour of something decent in, rather than flailing around for an hour, realising I'm not 100% and wasting the session. Nothing too wrong with this I think, as I used to have loads of sessions where you got no-where but at same time you were learning moves and positions etc. for the next session. But I haven't the time now for this.
Regarding the zinc suppliments, I was recommended to take these (can't remember if it was a doc or family) as I lost my dad to prostrate cancer about 6 year ago. After a bit of research there seemed big pluses for it but then I found research where if you're too high it increases the risk. I've not gone any further with it. Re-looking at the research against, it seems most of these were american studies, and the subjects were popping them like smarties and no doubt popping steaks at the same rate. So no surprise they had high levels. Around 120mgs a day intake.