Duncan campbell
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2011
- Messages
- 829
Dear UKB training/crushing/typing experts,
Looking for a bit of advice that admittedly I should have asked Tom Randall when he had his Q&A on Friday but I didn't think about it then and was also out when he was on...
I am currently suffering from a massive drop in performance which I am finding a little bit stressful/disheartening. Only a few months ago I was potentially at my strongest ever bouldering-wise and that came after my best ever year in terms of tradding and sport-climbing. My performance started to drop come early december and it has steadily declined since. Now, I just don't feel the same power/ability/something and Im unsure how to get it back!
I rested for a week before xmas (may have done a few pressups and situps + went on a run with me old man xmas day) and then went out to spain for a climbing holiday where I mainly had fun but despite having not tied in for a few months previous to the trip and climbing badly early on, within a few days I had matched my previous best onsight and by then end had onsighted another at the grade. (as it was a short trip I climbed 6 days on - though these weren't necessarily massive days)
I guess I should maybe explain a little about my lifestyle to maybe get a better answer...
I work Mon-Fri 7am-5pm so wake up at 6am and get home at 6pm and am outside for large amounts of the day. (I started this job around the beginning of october)
I usually take monday evening off as a full rest evening.
Then I typically go to the wall tues,weds,thurs for a few hours 6:30/7 to around 10. I mainly boulder but occasionally do a bit on the circuit board to retain a bit of fitness. occasionally do some pressups/situps/stretching etc at some point too
I then go home, smash in some dinner and go to bed at 11.
recently have been going to the works yoga on tuesday or thurs every other week
friday night I dont climb but often go to the pub for a few.
Sat/sunday is spent climbing (in recent months this has been more fucking indoor climbing. having been able to get out recently im totally useless on rock, which is probably partly due to drop in form partly because ive barely climbed on the grit this winter so havent got the knack.
Only other thing I can think of that may have something to do with it is general relationship shambles that began just as my performance started dropping off... though in the past this hasn't had an effect...
I imagine everyone will say rest - the problem is in recent years I have started to get really really bored of miling around the house + find exercise helps me sleep/feel happy. I love running but hate it on roads in the dark. Also part of me worries that rest wont help.
also how much rest/what exercise I can do until I can climb again would be valuable knowledge... considering doing some movement stuff potentially and/or try and figure out vague training plan.
I fully subscribe to the whole "peak + Trough" performance thing and I can deal with this trough if it doesnt affect my trad and sport climbing. Would still be good to hear what the UKB gurus have to say... if anything.
Thanks in advance!
Dunc
Looking for a bit of advice that admittedly I should have asked Tom Randall when he had his Q&A on Friday but I didn't think about it then and was also out when he was on...
I am currently suffering from a massive drop in performance which I am finding a little bit stressful/disheartening. Only a few months ago I was potentially at my strongest ever bouldering-wise and that came after my best ever year in terms of tradding and sport-climbing. My performance started to drop come early december and it has steadily declined since. Now, I just don't feel the same power/ability/something and Im unsure how to get it back!
I rested for a week before xmas (may have done a few pressups and situps + went on a run with me old man xmas day) and then went out to spain for a climbing holiday where I mainly had fun but despite having not tied in for a few months previous to the trip and climbing badly early on, within a few days I had matched my previous best onsight and by then end had onsighted another at the grade. (as it was a short trip I climbed 6 days on - though these weren't necessarily massive days)
I guess I should maybe explain a little about my lifestyle to maybe get a better answer...
I work Mon-Fri 7am-5pm so wake up at 6am and get home at 6pm and am outside for large amounts of the day. (I started this job around the beginning of october)
I usually take monday evening off as a full rest evening.
Then I typically go to the wall tues,weds,thurs for a few hours 6:30/7 to around 10. I mainly boulder but occasionally do a bit on the circuit board to retain a bit of fitness. occasionally do some pressups/situps/stretching etc at some point too
I then go home, smash in some dinner and go to bed at 11.
recently have been going to the works yoga on tuesday or thurs every other week
friday night I dont climb but often go to the pub for a few.
Sat/sunday is spent climbing (in recent months this has been more fucking indoor climbing. having been able to get out recently im totally useless on rock, which is probably partly due to drop in form partly because ive barely climbed on the grit this winter so havent got the knack.
Only other thing I can think of that may have something to do with it is general relationship shambles that began just as my performance started dropping off... though in the past this hasn't had an effect...
I imagine everyone will say rest - the problem is in recent years I have started to get really really bored of miling around the house + find exercise helps me sleep/feel happy. I love running but hate it on roads in the dark. Also part of me worries that rest wont help.
also how much rest/what exercise I can do until I can climb again would be valuable knowledge... considering doing some movement stuff potentially and/or try and figure out vague training plan.
I fully subscribe to the whole "peak + Trough" performance thing and I can deal with this trough if it doesnt affect my trad and sport climbing. Would still be good to hear what the UKB gurus have to say... if anything.
Thanks in advance!
Dunc