Quality Gardoms South addition from Farrar

[Bonjoy]

No name yet - 7c: Behind Sauvitto, arising from a boulder pit the steep and undercut arete/prow. FA Iain Farrar 16-04-08
A worthy new addition to the mighty Gardom's circuit. Will post up a picture when I have the camera to hand. Bring at least two pads, preferably one XL one to cover a gap in the landing. Do take care how you stand on the edge while topping out, a bit came off yesterday, has since been backed it up with superglue but it still needs care.

Had a look at this last night with Iain and Somebody's Fool, it is indeed very good. The crux is gaining a good edge from slopers, then holding the swing, but the rest of the climbing is quite tricky also. Me and SF had trouble reaching the edge but it seemed possible at 7c I think, more full stretch rather than out of reach.

Whilst in the area I added a good easier problem to the Sauvitto block. Start as for prob 12 in Ru's book (which is more 6b than 6c IMO) to the sloping ledge, then follow the sloping ridge/arete rightwards to an exciting finish using the big obvious pocket and flake above. About 6b, I'm calling it Captain Cabinets.

 

[dave]

No name yet

Nice one Farrar Monch - hows about "simon says get the fuck up" as a name?

 

[cowboyhat]

I looked at this prow a while ago, its a nice line. The 'landing' is fucking awful.

 

[Johnny Brown]

This isn't the thing we tried a few months back Jon? In the gully behind Suavito?

I think I've done your prob on the suavito block, haven't got a guide here to check what 'prob 12' is though. cookin wonderful?

 

[Bonjoy]

Yeah it's that feature but more direct. We were sort of trying it coming in from the flake on the right which was rather dabby on a boulder behind. Iain's thing goes straight up the arete without the flake. The landing is poor which would explain why it has not been done before, but totally fine with Iain's huge airpad and would also been fine with one XL pad and one or two normal pads.
I cleaned and did the easy line on the Sauvitto block but starting up the pocket problem, the same day I did Plan D. Forgot to mention it at the time(might have mentioned on blog). Starting from the prob 12 (lowball bum start heelhook move to ledge) makes a much nicer problem of it. I dare say the top bit has been done before this. I have vague memories of going on it with Jamie Lilleman yonks ago, but can't recall exact details of who did what.
Yip, i'll be cookin' wonderful at 12

 

[cofe]

nice work. the guy's unstoppable. like a runaway train, but more human and with no wheels or passengers or carriages or choo-choo noises. i think he should call it 'my sand apple'.

 

[monkey boy]

No name yet

Nice one Farrar Monch - hows about "simon says get the fuck up" as a name?

I like dave!

 

[Paz]

Iain's huge airpad

Is this one of the rumoured inflatable bouldering mats that deflate at constant load to cushion your landing, sort of air bag style?

 

[Bonjoy]

It is

 

[Paz]

Any idea when they're on the market?

 

[Bonjoy]

No, but i'll as Farrar when I see him

 

[Bonjoy]

A very poor quality shot showing Iain's prob. The actual way it climbs is further right and not dabby.

Si on Captain Cabinets 6b

 

[Resonate]

I that a Mondo? I've never encountered a rally bad landing since i got my Mondo =]

 

[Zods Beard]

Which problem is this?

 

[fatneck]

Maybe this will be of use?

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9038.0.html

 

[Zods Beard]

misunderstood the caption.

 

[Bonjoy]

Spoke to the man yesterday, it's called - The Sausage King Of Meersbrook

 

[dave]

I see someone's been attending one of R-man and Percy's "Problem Naming Seminars".

 

[Percy B]

What's the deal here, Dave? When you do some new problems then you can give them brilliant names and then we'll all be impressed. Until that point, don't diss other peoples problem names or efforts, even if its only in jest. Thinking of good problem names is dead easy when you've got nothing to name -and likewise, you can never remember the good names you had stored up when you do actually do a problem worthy of a good name. Its sod's law.
Perhaps we could have a communal new problem name thread for people to choose from when they've completed a project?!?!

In the meantime, pity my as yet unborn sprog - 8 weeks to go to think of a suitable name....the odds aren't looking good for little Lucretia Jesus Araminta are they....

 

[dave]

What's the deal here, Dave?

The "deal" is the lady doth protest too much.

When you do some new problems then you can give them brilliant names

Thanks, I do.