Pygmalion- How a greek myth effects british sports climbing standards

[jwi]

Yeah, the top-level is shockingly high: 8c+ or 9a onsight, 9a flash, or 9b or 9b+ redpoint. Below that are the also-rans. :blink:

 

[abarro81]

I'm late to most of this since, topically, I'm in Spain trying to redpoint a hard (for me) route. I'be not read everything but just wanted to back Stu up in his assessment that conditions are not the limiting factor in his the UK, and, IMO, choice of routes is a far bigger deal, as Doyle mentioned on about page 1. If I could move the route I'm trying to the tor or malham - complete with their conditions and seepage - I'm convinced that it would make it easier for me than having to go on a trip, where conditions are an equally big risk (e.g. its been 25 degrees since I've got here and looks set to stay like that). The big difference is that round here you can pick crimps, pockets or pinches, vert or thug, and short medium and long in all of those styles, often with a few to xhoose even adter that, whereas in the uk its short crimps or medium crimps or rainshadow.

 

[a dense loner]

Knee pad must be constricting in that heat

 

[Fiend]

If I could move the route I'm trying to the tor or malham - complete with their conditions and seepage - I'm convinced that it would make it easier for me than having to go on a trip, where conditions are an equally big risk (e.g. its been 25 degrees since I've got here and looks set to stay like that).

Conversely, if you lived in Spain, I doubt you would be really wanting to go on your trips to Malham to get the most reliable conditions :

 

[GuyVG]

I'm late to most of this since, topically, I'm in Spain trying to redpoint a hard (for me) route. I'be not read everything but just wanted to back Stu up in his assessment that conditions are not the limiting factor in his the UK, and, IMO, choice of routes is a far bigger deal, as Doyle mentioned on about page 1. If I could move the route I'm trying to the tor or malham - complete with their conditions and seepage - I'm convinced that it would make it easier for me than having to go on a trip, where conditions are an equally big risk (e.g. its been 25 degrees since I've got here and looks set to stay like that). The big difference is that round here you can pick crimps, pockets or pinches, vert or thug, and short medium and long in all of those styles, often with a few to xhoose even adter that, whereas in the uk its short crimps or medium crimps or rainshadow.

good luck barrows, keep on truckin'

 

[Paul B]

I'm late to most of this since, topically, I'm in Spain trying to redpoint a hard (for me) route. I'be not read everything but just wanted to back Stu up in his assessment that conditions are not the limiting factor in his the UK, and, IMO, choice of routes is a far bigger deal, as Doyle mentioned on about page 1. If I could move the route I'm trying to the tor or malham - complete with their conditions and seepage - I'm convinced that it would make it easier for me than having to go on a trip, where conditions are an equally big risk (e.g. its been 25 degrees since I've got here and looks set to stay like that). The big difference is that round here you can pick crimps, pockets or pinches, vert or thug, and short medium and long in all of those styles, often with a few to xhoose even adter that, whereas in the uk its short crimps or medium crimps or rainshadow.

You only cite this as a disadvantage because you're not Spanish, if you were this wouldn't be a problem. "Where the sun don't shine the Euro's don't climb" - are the Spanish people having trouble in the sun? My experience is people in hotter climates tend to deal better with the heat than a pasty Brit tourist.

I heard somewhere an amount of time (that I can no longer remember) that it takes your body to adapt to such climatic changes. It was vast when compared to the length of time most people (even you Barrows) would spend on a redpointing trip.

I will at some point (probably long after the debate has finished), get around to writing my full considered reply. Probably when my manager is in a meeting I'd imagine.

 

[Sloper]

Can we have a picture of a cat now?

 

[tim palmer]

i couldn't disagree more with most of what gme has posted but…..

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69236

Newsworthy?

 

[Jaspersharpe]

Amazing.

 

[JohnM]

Not newsworthy in terms of difficulty (i.e. if they had done Urgent Action for example it probably wouldn't have been reported) but it is a story of interest. From a personal perspective it is good to hear about these ascents as they are not done often so now I know they are relatively clean and the gear is ok on them. The other aspect I find with the British climbing media is that it tends to have it's favourite "media darlings" who tend to always be in the news whether the ascents are newsworthy or not.

 

[Oldmanmatt]

Not newsworthy in terms of difficulty (i.e. if they had done Urgent Action for example it probably wouldn't have been reported) but it is a story of interest. From a personal perspective it is good to hear about these ascents as they are not done often so now I know they are relatively clean and the gear is ok on them. The other aspect I find with the British climbing media is that it tends to have it's favourite "media darlings" who tend to always be in the news whether the ascents are newsworthy or not.

Not sure if Ben is a media darling?

Though I should have given him the job when he applied last year...

 

[GuyVG]

ff: Wild looking route! it would be cool if they had a look at Bob's route Endeavour while they were down there

 

[tim palmer]

Not newsworthy in terms of difficulty (i.e. if they had done Urgent Action for example it probably wouldn't have been reported) but it is a story of interest. From a personal perspective it is good to hear about these ascents as they are not done often so now I know they are relatively clean and the gear is ok on them. The other aspect I find with the British climbing media is that it tends to have it's favourite "media darlings" who tend to always be in the news whether the ascents are newsworthy or not.

Yeah totally, I don't give two hoots if british climbers are "world class", I just thought it was a nice example of what gme thinks is route cause of the lack of 9a climbers in the UK, but I reiterate I totally disagree with him.

ff: Wild looking route! it would be cool if they had a look at Bob's route Endeavour while they were down there

I can't imagine a better example of what gme was talking about…. see above

 

[GuyVG]

Sorry Tim could you explain that one

 

[tim palmer]

gme (on page 1 i.e. the topic of the thread) says that over reporting of ascents of mid - grade sport routes as "news" is one cause of the lack of 9a and above climbers in the uk. I was just providing an example, I thought maybe the dead horse had not been sufficiently flogged

 

[GuyVG]

oh yes I know that's the main topic I was just struggling to see how my off-topic comment you've quoted linked into that

 

[tim palmer]

:sorry: I my understanding of emoticon syntax is poor

 

[gme]

I was just providing an example, I thought maybe the dead horse had not been sufficiently flogged

Why bring it up again if your so sure the horse is dead. And thanks for referencing a very good example of what i was talking about.

I still think i am right in my thinking, am still very interested in the subject, and am still doing a fair amount of researching into it but cant be arsed to discuss it on here as i have found the nature of forums not suitable to have a constructive discussion.

 

[tim palmer]

I was just providing an example, I thought maybe the dead horse had not been sufficiently flogged

Why bring it up again if your so sure the horse is dead. And thanks for referencing a very good example of what i was talking about.

I would try and argue with you but it is clear that you are not taking in to anything anyone else has posted. All I will say is correlation is not the same as causation.

 

[a dense loner]

Tim what are you saying? Has someone spiked yours and stu littlefella's drinks recently? I can't make any sense of what you've both been trying to talk about