Power Top-up

[James Malloch]

I’ve tried a route at Kilnsey a few time now (Subculture) and managed to get a sequence sorted for the first 4 bolts which ends at some jugs.

I’ve done each bolt to bolt individually but it’s very power sapping (big, throwy, powerful moves).

I’ve not climbed much in the last few months so I’m thinking that a bit of specific work on the board might help bring some quick improvements on the power front.

I was thinking campusing is the obvious choice for some quick power/contact strength gains but I’ve only got 5 rungs so a bit limited. I can also do campus circuits but its a fairly small board so its hard to string many big moves together - though I’ve set a few 15-20 move ones in the past.

Any tips for quick wins would be welcomed. I’d say my training has been basically zero for the last 3 months, so i think pretty much anything will have an impact from my current base level.

 

[spidermonkey09]

I did this the other month. Campusing is probably worth a go, 5 runs should be more than sufficient. Try to go 1 to 4 with each arm, match and drop? If that's too easy there's always 1 to 5. Other than that just general power endurance should help, so maybe try doing hard 4/5 move boulders on the board back to back, 4 reps.

Side note but don't neglect the top half of subculture, I fell off it once having minced the bottom bit.

 

[James Malloch]

I did this the other month. Campusing is probably worth a go, 5 runs should be more than sufficient. Try to go 1 to 4 with each arm, match and drop? If that's too easy there's always 1 to 5. Other than that just general power endurance should help, so maybe try doing hard 4/5 move boulders on the board back to back, 4 reps.

Cheers. How would you treat the campusing?

I used to do it years ago, based on a recommendation from Nizza, doing 6 reps per set (3 leading one side, 3 leading with the other arm). Doing 3 sets with increasing difficulty working up to, at the time 1-4-6.

It seemed to work well but open to changing things.

I’ll try the boulders too. Finding it hard at the moment due to it being so warm. But maybe some slightly bigger holds but campusing them might work?

Side note but don't neglect the top half of subculture, I fell off it once having minced the bottom bit.

Yeah i need to have a proper play on the top section. I think I've a sequence for most of it except getting to the chains. After getting the RH pocket/slot and then the LH crimp next to the bolt, i guess its a case of rocking up right and getting into the undercuts to clip?

I only tried this yesterday on the third attempt of the day so was feeling pretty ruined by that point.

 

[Liamhutch89]

Whether or not it's actually power that you need for the route I don't know, but it's worth understanding that power is most effectively trained at reduced loads in comparison to strength training. Whilst elite boulderers can train power effectively via campusing, it is likely to be too slow and too high of a percentage of 1rm for most of us (certainly for me anyway). You're likely to get better gains in power by generating the movement using your whole body, including your feet, and moving explosively between relatively decent holds.

Based on the fact that you haven't been training I wouldn't over complicate it, just get on the board a couple of times a week and try to be fast / snappy. If it's sustained power you need then do a 6 move problem 3 times with a minute between each rep, and complete around 5 sets of this with a good rest between sets. 75% success rate is ideal, failing in the later sets due to power fade (you can use different problems for variety as long as they focus on power).

 

[James Malloch]

Whether or not it's actually power that you need for the route I don't know

Thats a good point.. it's about 17 hand moves on a section with no rest (for me anyway). A few hard foot moves too.

So maybe more power endurance than just power. Though i guess both will help.

 

[Will Hunt]

Most people that I've seen on it clip the belay from a RH crimp a move or two above the slot. If you're tiring at the end of the traverse you can do an extra move to get your left hand in the slot and rest there before going up to clip the belay.

Depending on how tired you are when you get to the rest, and depending on how good you are at recovering, I'd advise getting that end section well dialled.

I don't think you need to train anything, you just need to book mileage on the route and get it all flowing. Train if you must but don't forgo an evening session on the climb - you'll get it done much faster.

 

[Liamhutch89]

Whether or not it's actually power that you need for the route I don't know

Thats a good point.. it's about 17 hand moves on a section with no rest (for me anyway). A few hard foot moves too.

So maybe more power endurance than just power. Though i guess both will help.

Yes that's well into power endurance. The session I mentioned is very much at the power end of power endurance, but is still likely to be beneficial (if the route section is powerful in nature) and the adaptions should be quick as it's mostly neuromuscular. You should see improvements after a few sessions.

 

[T_B]

Side note but don't neglect the top half of subculture, I fell off it once having minced the bottom bit.

I’m not generally one for dropping the tops of things but I dropped that tricky move across on two separate visits. I think it’s a route that you can get through the crux on with very little fitness, but you get found out on that innocuous upper part.

In terms of power top up I’d replicate that crux pull through. In fact the bottom moves are all big pull throughs as well.

 

[spidermonkey09]

Yeah, its surprisingly droppable. Side note James, but worth going all the way to the top of the crag as per Myra Hindley. You get a good rest in the undercuts and then its the best climbing on the route going over the bulge, with no change in grade. The intermediate belay is pointless for my money!

TBH though like Will I'd favour getting on it over training anything specifically.

 

[Bradders]

I'd echo the sentiment of just getting on the route and climbing on a board. The transformation in my ability to yard through the lower moves was fairly incredible from my first session on it to getting it done, which I think must be more due to familiarity with it and learning the nuances. And in my opinion there's no substitute for board climbing when aiming to train power.

The other thing I'd recommend when trying to push your sport grade is getting plenty of mileage done. It'd be oh so easy to get sucked into just trying the one route, but when I made it to the jugs by the 4th bolt for the first time I then went to the top, and I credit that to building fitness by doing mileage up to 7bish around sessions on the project.

RE clipping I climbed up and right to a nice fat juggy pinch and clipped from there. Felt a lot easier than trying to haul rope up above my head from the lower holds. Just make sure you don't have some punter (i.e. me) belaying so you don't get short roped :sorry:

 

[Will Hunt]

When we were at the crag together I think you mentioned that you'd never done much/any multi-day projecting, so at risk of sounding incredibly patronising I'd also suggest making sure you've got the clips extended so you're always clipping in the most neutral position possible. If you're having to pull up to clip, then let yourself back down and sort feet before going for the next hold you're just adding unnecessary moves and time when you need to be moving fast.

 

[Paul B]

Yeah, its surprisingly droppable.

Just learn where that awkward hold is. It's always a bit further round than you'd expect.

I always found the (Rich S Moon workout) combination of 1-4-1 and 1L-4R-3R (or 5-4 if you've got the length) very effective for this kind of move. How are your elbows? :worms:

The other thing I'd recommend when trying to push your sport grade is getting plenty of mileage done. It'd be oh so easy to get sucked into just trying the one route, but when I made it to the jugs by the 4th bolt for the first time I then went to the top, and I credit that to building fitness by doing mileage up to 7bish around sessions on the project.

You can get the top bit dialled by lapping Slab Culture too and then you've put in a fair amount of groundwork for Lapin when the time comes.