Power Club 790 27 Jan - 2 Feb 2025

[Duma]

M - Margalef. Rain, rest.
T - Margalef, l'Escut. Brutal cold wind did not help my attempted warm up on Tocapresas (7b). Ironically dropped it by messing up feet on a big move between big holds rather than numbing out, result was the same though. Anyway managed to get the blood flowing and rather than get back on Tocapresas I went for the OS on Sputnik (7c). Guessed right when necessary, committed at the right spots, rested appropriately, and managed my first OS of the grade. YYFY, especially as I wasn't expecting anything from this trip, on the assumption that the pockets and power endurance of Margalef really don't suit me. Thankfully Charlie's project is on this excellent almost vert wall, so I can skirt my weaknesses somewhat. Finished with a dog up Le Llamaban Moñas (8a), super thin and some tiny monos, will need another look to see if it's feasible.
W - Margalef, l'Escut. Much more pleasant than yesterday without the freezing wind. Warm up on Tocapresas again, kept it together this time. Then another dog up Le Llamaban Moñas, managed to refine the footwork so it felt a bit higher percentage, lots of help from Charlie having already spent a while on it too. She then smashed it out in very inspiring style, and I fought through (albeit much more scrappily) to catch the send train. Another top day.
T - Margalef, Espadelles. Easy day, was hoping to relax in the sunshine but instead was dodging spots of rain in loads of layers. Still did some nice climbing though: I Tú de Qui Ets, Xiquet? (6a+), My Tito Hirrou (6b), Un Petó de Marieta (6a+) (excellent), Comendatore Paco (6b)(great rock), Abanibi (6c)(good positions, nasty crux), and Setareh (6c)(great orange wall), all OS.
F - Margalef, Espadelles. Got the sun I was hoping for yesterday! Not many beans left now though. Nice flowy 6b+, Turmellosi to start, then fumbled a pocket low down to drop the flash on Amb Pal no Dona Pal (7b). Lowered straight off and did it so still go a bit of first go fight. Then a brief look at Transilvania (8a), apparently the most climbed 8 in Margalef , and I can believe it from the polish. Worked out the boulder but no time or energy for a proper go.
S - Travel, then 12 hr night shift.
S - 12 hr night shift.

69 kg

Great little week snuck in between shifts.

 

[oldfella]

Awesome trip Duma. Well done on the Onsight.

Not much climbing this week. Split tip due to cold dry weather.

Monday -
2hrs of Tennis after

Tuesday
Fingerboard
18mm edges. 5x10s hangs total weight BW plus 92.7 kg.

Wednesday
Rest

Thursday
Rest

Friday
Peloton ride. 40mins

Saturday
1 hour of tennis in the afternoon


Sunday
Moonboard session
10 problems warm up.
Did two more benchmarks in 6a+ range.
Just got one 5+ BM left. Had 4 sessions on it now. Frustrating, but just can’t do it. Not even done the move in isolation.

 

[Murph]

Well done on the OS duma.

Week 5
M- feeling a bit bashed in so rested. Meant to stretch but...[edit - 20k cycle commute]
T-
W-[edit - 5k moderate run]
T- lunchtime trackside retro flash. Couldn't touch it a month ago. The training is working. Evening works session, reds 5-6a.
F-strength routine and stretches
S-sub 27m parkrun (fastest since April, pre-surgery), burbage, opened account on the terrace, couldn't get off the ground but at least I know what I'm in for.
S-easy works session with daughter. Stretches.

73kg - diet starts today. Goal weight 65.

 

[nik at work]

Sounds like a great little trip Duma

M - nothing
T - the works. Still feeling rough, didn’t climb much. Had a nice coffee.
W - nothing
T - the works. Yellows.
F - nothing
S - Rubicon with Sam and Miles. Fairly rubbish conditions, nothing dry but first couple of moves of Sam’s project sort of workable. Made a decent session of it. Looks like Sam’s project is slowly morphing into a group project…
S - morning hit at the works (Sam’s mum was over visiting and had arranged to meet friends there). Tried to work out if there are any mints I can do, got a couple on the list to work on. Then late afternoon session at Rivelin with Sam and Miles. Nice little session, again conditions not ideal, air felt quite damp.

Pretty reasonable week considering how much I’ve (still) been coughing!! Hopefully properly on the mend now…

 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxe.
Tue - 2 xAM session. Very short on time.
Wed - Palermo, weights.
Thu - Palermo, weights.
Fri - Palermo, weights.
Sat - Palermo, theraband, shadow boxing.
Sun - Palermo, 1x AM session.
A week of incredibly good food and wine, luckily walking 6/7 hours a day.

 

[Wellsy]

Monday - Rested

Tuesday - Benched 82.5kgs for 5 sets of 5. Then did 8 plate presses (10kgs) and 15 chest flys (8kgs) for 6 supersets then did 6 sets of 10 15kg dumbbell rows. Then climbed for a while and did lots of nice problem.

Wednesday - board session. Started with edge lifts up to 40kgs for 10 seconds, progressive overload time. Then did all the warmups and then some hard moves etc. Then squatted 100kgs for 5x5, assisted pistol squats supersetted with side plank leg raises and then reverse nordics supersetted with superman planks

Thursday - Benched; 87.5kgs for 3x3, weighted pullups and some face pulls and sloth curls after. Then all the Purples in the Workles.

Friday - rested

Saturday - Went to the Swarthbeck Boulders in the lakes, next to Ullswater. Wonderful day, we just went through everything in the guidebook in order, did over 15 problems, many several times, 2s, 3s, 4s, 5s, 6As, 6A+s, 6B, 6B+, 6C and 7A all done. Wonderful. Went home and had a beer in the bath while reading a book and listening to some gentle choons. Bouldering is great isn't it, I love it so much.

Sunday - Weightlifting in the morning; Snatched up to 57.5kgs. Squatted 102.5kgs 5x5, Benched 92.5kgs for three sets of 1. Felt very strong and fresh despite the efforts yesterday. Then went to the Works and Edge Lifted up to 70kgs, did some 50kgs lifts for 10 seconds, did some curls, then did a bunch of easy climbs, then another pub late lunch

 

[Duma]

Sat sounds great Wellsy

 

[Murph]

Yeah Saturday sounds like a perfect day.

 

[Wellsy]

it really was, one of those days that reminds you why you do it all. We both also did all the same problems and that so was a really nice little team day of just enjoying loads of blocks. Saw a red squirrel and a couple of buzzards too!

 

[Fiend]

Sat sounds great Wellsy

Makes up for the rest of the bollox!!

 

[Hoseyb]

M Route setting, 16m (4m-ish overhanging). 6b and 7c
The 6b was pretty tiring setting, due to lots of heavy holds, the 7c was tiring testing....
T rest
W chopped some wood and walked the dog, but otherwise chill.
T try hard indoor boulder after work. Got one move further on the sandbag V6, did another V6 and V7, tried a couple of other V7s
F rest
S working, did some single arm lat pulls into tricep extension. I find if I keep my elbow up it simulates pulling through on a Gaston. A few sets of 15kg.
S mainly rest ( lots of setting coming up) did a big block of flexbar repeaters for my wrists, through each plane of motion.

 

[Fiend]

Next week STG: More shoulder mobility - barely. Continue with conditioning - a fair bit but not very focused. Continue with gradual intensity increase on elbow - was yes until Sunday and then no. Learn to do stretching at home - too fucking lazy. Mix in a bit of gentle fingerboarding - nope.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - nope!. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - slack this week but still some chat. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - mostly overall but then fucked it on Sunday, (gym x 1) - x 1, elbow rehab x 2 - x 2, shoulder rehab x 2 - x 2, stretching x 3 - x 2½.

M - Indoor auto-belay routes @ The Very Fucking Big Depot. F6a (2 laps), F6b (2 laps), F6b (2 laps), F6b+ (2 laps), F6b+ (2 laps), F6c (1.5 laps), F6c+ (F6c - 2 laps). Attempted F6b+ (F6c+), 3 x F6c+ (all F7a?). Skin sore and elbow sore after - worst it's been for 2 weeks, too much load in the few days. Stretching session while resting. Warmed up by doing 1 hour or so of bramble removal - I guess about 15 x 60kg deadlifts with lots of rest in between? Neck less sore than previously and generally improved throughout the day.

T - Gym. Misc WeakWeights(tm) and conditioning. Back up to 2 x 75kg bench although the 2nd rep was measured in minutes... That means I've clawed back to less than 10% weaker than before? Tried for 20kg/arm OH press but couldn't swing the weights above my head as I felt a niggle in bracchialis, 5 x 17.5kg fine tho. 130kg deadlift, felt hard, and 140kg felt too risky, so holding steady at 20% weaker than before. Not sure why that's lagging behind. Might try squats next time. Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab. Full stretching session. Neck generally quite a bit better. Elbow okay in the morning.

W - 2-3 hours gardening. Fairly well-paced but a bit more than I should have done - albeit for stuff I can climb in the near future. Must be extra careful not to get carried away nor sacrifice climbing functionality (did better at this on Monday).

T - Rest. Elbow rehab (sorer than usual). Shoulder rehab. Shoulder mobility (okay given recent shit). 5 mins insertion / 1 min immersion cold water cruelty. Especially hard because of the cold breeze and gf in a mighty sulk. Half stretching session later when I finally got so disgusted with my perma-laziness and forced myself to do it.

F - Indoor bouldering @ RockOver Shartson. 6 x V1-3, 6 x V2-4, 6 x V3-5 (flash), 10 x V4-6 (7 flash, 2 x 2nd go, 1 x 3rd go), 2 x V5-7 (1 x 2nd go, 1 worked, plus unsuccesfully tried 2 more)). Good fun. Elbow better in the morning but a bit sore after, not bad given the intensity. Neck slightly worse in the morning but a bit sore after.

S - Active rest @ Lester Mill. HS, VS, HVS, E1 hillwalks. 30 mins tree and bramble clearance. Cold and bleak at first, nice bit of sun later. Woke with worse neck pain including a bit into my face. Had 4 shits before heading out and a 5th at the crag and felt queasy and pretty rubbish for the first couple of hours. Elbow pretty fine. Decent halves of fruit beers / sours at The Magnet.

S - Indoor bouldering @ Onyx. 8 x V2-4 (soft), 8 x V3-5 (very soft), 8 x V4-6 (mostly soft, 6 flash, 1 x 2nd go, 1 x 3rd go, plus attempted 2 that were proper 4-6 and too hard), 6 x V5-7 (variable, 5 flash, 1 x 2nd go, plus attempted 4 that were proper 5-7 and too hard). Not enough rat crimps as Ian had used them all on the V8s. Elbow randomly sore on waking and then the worst it's been for 3 weeks climbing. Neck pain again and mild queasiness again, felt pretty rubbish for the first hour at the wall, but was okay after.


Hmmm. Another mixed week. Was mostly okay but pushed it too far on Sun. Hopefully am conditioned enough to take it gently for a bit and not turn into in vegetable.


Next week STG: Keep intensity the same or less on elbow. Look after neck. Continue with conditioning. Learn to do stretching at home.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope or a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

 

[Wellsy]

Fiend perma laziness isn't your problem, the problem is the opposite of that! Rest more mate!

 

[Fiend]

Laziness from stretching you bellend!!

 

[Wellsy]

Always with the abuse

 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Next week STG: More shoulder mobility - barely. Continue with conditioning - a fair bit but not very focused. Continue with gradual intensity increase on elbow - was yes until Sunday and then no. Learn to do stretching at home - too fucking lazy. Mix in a bit of gentle fingerboarding - nope.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - nope!. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - slack this week but still some chat. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - mostly overall but then fucked it on Sunday, (gym x 1) - x 1, elbow rehab x 2 - x 2, shoulder rehab x 2 - x 2, stretching x 3 - x 2½.

M - Indoor auto-belay routes @ The Very Fucking Big Depot. F6a (2 laps), F6b (2 laps), F6b (2 laps), F6b+ (2 laps), F6b+ (2 laps), F6c (1.5 laps), F6c+ (F6c - 2 laps). Attempted F6b+ (F6c+), 3 x F6c+ (all F7a?). Skin sore and elbow sore after - worst it's been for 2 weeks, too much load in the few days. Stretching session while resting. Warmed up by doing 1 hour or so of bramble removal - I guess about 15 x 60kg deadlifts with lots of rest in between? Neck less sore than previously and generally improved throughout the day.

T - Gym. Misc WeakWeights(tm) and conditioning. Back up to 2 x 75kg bench although the 2nd rep was measured in minutes... That means I've clawed back to less than 10% weaker than before? Tried for 20kg/arm OH press but couldn't swing the weights above my head as I felt a niggle in bracchialis, 5 x 17.5kg fine tho. 130kg deadlift, felt hard, and 140kg felt too risky, so holding steady at 20% weaker than before. Not sure why that's lagging behind. Might try squats next time. Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab. Full stretching session. Neck generally quite a bit better. Elbow okay in the morning.

W - 2-3 hours gardening. Fairly well-paced but a bit more than I should have done - albeit for stuff I can climb in the near future. Must be extra careful not to get carried away nor sacrifice climbing functionality (did better at this on Monday).

T - Rest. Elbow rehab (sorer than usual). Shoulder rehab. Shoulder mobility (okay given recent shit). 5 mins insertion / 1 min immersion cold water cruelty. Especially hard because of the cold breeze and gf in a mighty sulk. Half stretching session later when I finally got so disgusted with my perma-laziness and forced myself to do it.

F - Indoor bouldering @ RockOver Shartson. 6 x V1-3, 6 x V2-4, 6 x V3-5 (flash), 10 x V4-6 (7 flash, 2 x 2nd go, 1 x 3rd go), 2 x V5-7 (1 x 2nd go, 1 worked, plus unsuccesfully tried 2 more)). Good fun. Elbow better in the morning but a bit sore after, not bad given the intensity. Neck slightly worse in the morning but a bit sore after.

S - Active rest @ Lester Mill. HS, VS, HVS, E1 hillwalks. 30 mins tree and bramble clearance. Cold and bleak at first, nice bit of sun later. Woke with worse neck pain including a bit into my face. Had 4 shits before heading out and a 5th at the crag and felt queasy and pretty rubbish for the first couple of hours. Elbow pretty fine. Decent halves of fruit beers / sours at The Magnet.

S - Indoor bouldering @ Onyx. 8 x V2-4 (soft), 8 x V3-5 (very soft), 8 x V4-6 (mostly soft, 6 flash, 1 x 2nd go, 1 x 3rd go, plus attempted 2 that were proper 4-6 and too hard), 6 x V5-7 (variable, 5 flash, 1 x 2nd go, plus attempted 4 that were proper 5-7 and too hard). Not enough rat crimps as Ian had used them all on the V8s. Elbow randomly sore on waking and then the worst it's been for 3 weeks climbing. Neck pain again and mild queasiness again, felt pretty rubbish for the first hour at the wall, but was okay after.


Hmmm. Another mixed week. Was mostly okay but pushed it too far on Sun. Hopefully am conditioned enough to take it gently for a bit and not turn into in vegetable.


Next week STG: Keep intensity the same or less on elbow. Look after neck. Continue with conditioning. Learn to do stretching at home.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope or a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

Fucking hell Matt! No wonder you're perma injured! You know that you're pushing 50 right

 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Back on the OG PC post Largerthon!

M-F: Largerthon (cbfa to go thru it again).
S: 6 mile fell run - Ace!
S: AW with Energizer Bunny and our daughters - kept it steady (mostly). Easy bouldering. 6 Routes up to F6b+ and a TR of a 7a+ to see how the ribs felt... Result! No real pain, some mild discomfort when pulling down on the LHS but nothing like it has been... Pickups 20mm @ 30kg 30s L/R, 20mm @ 35kg 30s L/R, 20mm @ 40kg 10s L/R... Called it as feeling tired (bad juju doing these at the end of a sesh but there was no telling EB that!)

 

[Fiend]

You can get a grip and all Mr Disorderly. It's about half what you do in terms of calorie expenditure AND I don't do any of the fingerboarding / pick-ups / whatevers (worth noting the bouldering walls noted are fairly soft touch so there's only a little bit of trying hard there). The *only* things that were remotely injury relavent were Depot auto-belays (too much volume, but that totally settled down by Fri/Sat), and too much intensity at Onyx which I've clearly acknowledged. I didn't say I should do any more physical exhertion this week, in fact I should have done slightly less with maybe half the intensity on Sunday, only that I should have done more stretching as I'm perma-lazy when it comes to self-care / supportive stuff.

 

[Yossarian]

2 weeks

M - 10 mile dog walk. FB pulls. Then home board, but felt a bit worn out.
T - 3 mile dog walk. Wall evening. Bit of board, bit of other stuff. Felt quite strong / light, but tried not to overdo it.
W - 4.5 mile dog walk. More FB pulls. Home board. Fingers felt a bit stiff / cold so did some bigger holds / longer move stuff. Then some shoulder and bench press.
T - Shorter dog walk, then wall in the evening. Various bits and bobs. Tried the campus board again and managed 146 which I've not done in a while.
F - 5 mile dog walk.
S - Wall am. Bit of board, plus tried some other projects. Bit more composing. Felt battered by the end, and skin was in a bit of a state.
S - Very little, then ended up in hospital overnight with 10yo who'd had an out of the blue fairly severe asthma attack (i.e. should've gone in an ambulance) in the evening. "Slept" on a fold-out armchair.

M - Zzzz
T - Shorter dog walk, skipped wall session.
W - 10 mile dog walk. FB pulls, then short home board session.
T - Dog day off. Went to London, saw Electric Dreams at Tate Modern then walked around Regent's Park. Wall evening. Felt quite strong / light, but brain was a bit frazzled.
F - 6 mile walk in the mud and rain. Shoulder / bench press, etc.
S - Decent long session at the wall. Campus board - managed 156 both sides, but 136 felt miles harder. various other stuff. Exhausted.
S

Weight dropped to 102something kg, which is 12kg down from the autumn. Need to book Font for easter, but currently distracted by the idea of some routes which I was going to leave till later in the year but now I'm thinking I need to mix things up a bit.