Power Club 786 30 Dec 2024 - 5 Jan 2025

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Duma

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
6,036
Location
in the moment
M - 12 hr night shift. Still coughing a lot but improving.
T - 12 hr night shift. As above.
W - 12 hr night shift. Cough a little better, and otherwise ok.
T - slept all day (would normally force myself up at midday after nights but felt recovery was more important than resetting the body clock). Attempted the wall in the eve, lasted 40 mins, it was Baltic and I didn't really have the energy. Managed a vert black though.
F - mostly better now. Aft, TCA, 120 min. Trying the remaining new-to-me blacks upstairs. Fucking freezing again, lots of dry fires, especially on the fucking bullshit PU holds. Fuck PU, should be banned from climbing walls. Anyway, 3 blacks (1 2nd go, 1 quick, 1 with a bit of work) also fair bit of work on 2 others, did all but 1 move on both. Brief play on 2 others.
S - 12 hr shift on 2 hrs sleep as not switched body clock from nights
S - 12 hr shift on 3 hrs sleep. Here's hoping I do better tonight...

68.5 kg

Well that was a bullshit 2 weeks. I don't get ill much, so obviously moan loads when I do, but the initial weekend was proper nasty flu and have only just felt almost back to normal this weekend. Losing 4 kg completely failed to help with climbing too.
 
Haven’t posted for a couple of weeks with Christmas and then being ill etc
M
T beastmaker
W
T Wharncliffe for first time in years. Did Snakes on a plain which is well named and has great rock
F I was intending to go out again but Thursday was the first time I’d climbed for a good while after bing I’ll so I was knackered
S
S Shed/ board power
 
My name is Mark, and this is my first power club.
Got a little ahead of the game the day before kickoff as I'd got a tindeq for Christmas and was keen to play. I did my max load tests, hand and individual fingers.. hence..
M Rest, walk the dog, kept children alive while wife away..
T Mainly as Monday, but also quick tindeq session, looking at endurance and rate of force development. I'd put figures on here, but in my neurodivergent way I'm rather attached to my homemade, non standard lifting edge that I made to rehab an injury eons ago, so not comparable data ( unless you've also got a 13mm edge?). However, I intend to retest every 6 weeks so I can plot the gains.
W was going to do some light evening finger work as planned to climb outside Friday, but cocked up the invoicing at work, so spent the evening redoing it.
T Entertaining, feeding and shuttling kids, no activity but psyched to climb the next day
F Slight disaster as babysitter was ill so no climbing trip. Did the critical force analysis on the tindeq instead. Bloody hell that was hard .
However at least it has comparable data. My CF score /MVC was 36% left hand, 34% right
Mucked out chickens, tidied house, wife came home
S Aching. First day back on the desk at work after Christmas at the Beacon climbing centre, lots of floor walking, no training.
S Date climb at the wall with the wife bouldering ( not working). Wasn't happy with my performance but at least I was trying hard. Warmed up to V5 and proceeded to fall off a wide variety of 6s and 7s. Setting tomorrow so not completely ragging myself.

Although I've lurked here for the latter half of last year, I'm not sure of all the protocols, hanging off my tindeq says I'm 70kg, and I'm 5' 8" and a smidgen, as well as recently commencing my second half century.

I want to be consistent with my training without obsessing and breaking, and keep improving.
 
M - nothing
T - nothing
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - drove out to Rubicon, it was wet. Then got word from Miles that Rivelin was dry. Sam and Miles had a good session on Nik’s Wall, race is on for the repeat… I briefly pulled on but spent most of the time dog herding, taking photographs and discussing sequences. So essentially nothing.

A week of pretty much nothing, but wasn’t expecting much else tbh. Got Sam back from the Isle of Man now so normal service should return this week.
 
especially on the fucking bullshit PU holds. Fuck PU, should be banned from climbing walls.
Preach. Either dry firing or instant grease. Only time I ever feel the need to chalk up mid problem is on these slippery bastards. Luckily not many at the local wall, but fear for the new Block 10, as they have loads on the Dundee facility.
 
Welcome HoseyB! As you say, 'just' turning up consistently is the 90% of the battle.

Duma, that all sounds rubbish, hats off for getting anything done.

M - Rest day. Explored Úbeda, world heritage site for its renaissance architecture. What do you do when you suddenly get rich (from your newly exploited south and central american empire)? Hire the fashionable architects of the time - in the 16th century they would be Tuscans or Spanish versed in the style - and build gorgeous townhouses and churches in the golden local stone.

T - Reguchillo, sector Heavy Metal - Warmed-up on Vida ameba again and Cinderella (6a+) then tried Kukuxumuxu (7a). It was a good fight but I managed it first try, keeping going despite getting pretty pumped. It’s the warm-up for those essaying the big 7s and 8s so hard to avoid seeing people on it and I had some idea of key holds but employed a, cough, singular sequence of my own. Iain had an exploratory session on the amazing looking Montrebei. A very satisfying end of the year.

W - Reguchillo, sectors Celedor and Bolo. Warmed up on Vida Ameba, Ebola and 2 Kilos Mas (6b+). Iain had another working session on Montrebei and I went project shopping. Tried El celador (7a+) and climbed the first half to the ledge before it got steep(er) and thuggy(er) whence I bolt-to-bolted to the top. This felt more like cross-fit than climbing, great if this is your thing but I’m not sure it is mine. Iain had another day on Montrebei getting very close but foiled by someone else’s unfortunately placed draw in the belay.

T - Rest day. A few stretches for the hip, otherwise nothing.

F - Reguchillo, sectors Bolo and Lola Flores. Warmed up on Ebola and Bicho malo. More project shopping: tried Terapia de Choque (7b) which was plausible except for one basic crimp and pull move. Bring peak lime fingers or be taller than six foot and so able to use the better footholds. Also spent some time on Pokerface (7b in the guide). This was very good up to what I hoped would be the jugs at the end of the crux. I worked out a sequence that would be 7b-ish at Uphill (similar vertical climbing on small crozzly holds). Unfortunately there was a sting: a small white scar circled by a stain of grey resin. There may be a way to do the move but not for me and not at the given grade. Checking jwi’s favourite website, people were taking 7b+ using a part-broken sika hold up to 2022 but there are no recorded ascents more recently. Iain climbed Montrebei on his second go of the day as dusk fell, which was great to see.

S - Rest day. Wandered around Jaén. Some elegant early 20th century architecture and cool street art from before and after Spain’s time down the plughole.

S - Reguchillo, sector Heavy Metal. Warmed-up on Bico Raro then Conducta inmoral. This seemed hard for 6b+ but it climbs well and I scraped up it onsight. Then did El arbolillo in a similar fashion, it’s also tough (for 6c) but good: like a bolted Pembroke E3/4. I then tried the very technical Papel secante (7a+). I was feeling the last two routes in my arms and tips and the sun was out so I came down at the second bolt. One to return to: it looks up my street and plausible with fresh fingers and cooler temps.

I’m very happy with how things are going, especially considering how my elbow was 4 weeks ago. Will put some time into trying something a bit harder this week and perhaps visit one of the other local crags.

We’re really enjoying Reguchillo. The climbing is somewhat similar to Chulilla: the pick are the long routes in the 7s and easy 8s, mostly moderately overhanging with some tufa action. It’s much less extensive than Chulillia of course and much less busy: there might be a dozen or so people at a popular sector at New Year but usually quieter. As others have said, it’s a sheltered sun-trap and feels hot when the air temps are above about 15C, so a good midwinter venue. If you need crisper conditions the sun goes behind the hill around 3.30-4pm when it instantly feels much colder. Or you could start early (shudder).
 
Two week festive bonus edition.... P.S. Duma having looked up PU holds I agree entirely, I recognise some of those and they are the ones that polish to a weird slickness on top of the so-called texture. Vile things. At least with, say, the Core smooth limestone style, you know what you're getting.

Next week STG: Bletch - YES. All the BLETCH.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - no, made silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - no, tried and failed dismally. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - generally poor at this. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - sabotaged by too much rest and too many Depot macros, (gym x 1) - n/a but Xmas run, elbow rehab x 2 - x 1, shoulder rehab x 2 - x 1, stretching x 3 - x 2.

M - Less ill. Indoor bouldering @ Big Depot. 15 x V2-4, 11 x V3-5 (mostly flash, plus tried a couple more). Very macro / volume heavy. Skin trashed and elbow the worst it's been for a month (already felt noticably bad in the morning after 5 days rest). Stretching session.

T - Rest. 30 mins walk. Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab.

W - Active rest. Christmas Cripplerun(tm) over to Battersea. Worst it's been for years. Put it down to still recovering from punter-flu and almost no running this year, and didn't push through.

T - Indoor bouldering @ Vauxwall. 5 x V1-3, 6 x V2-4, 5 x V3-5 (mostly flash), 2 x V4-6. Felt so shaky I nearly shook myself off some holds. Had to take anti-nausea tablet and some trendy hipster ginger and turmeric shot to calm down. Elbow a bit sore. Left before I was fatigued or had bad skin. Bought reading glasses as my nearsight is deteriorating like everything else.

F - 4+, 6A (6B+/C?, worked and panicked), 6A (worked).

S - 2+ hours attempting 7A, 2 attempts on 7A (morpho) and 6C (7A?). 2 attempts on 6C (piss), tried to pull a dead fern stalk out of the base of the rock before a proper go, and impaled it through my thumb pad. Left with a large splinter still embedded and blood pissing out of my thumb.

S - Getting ill again with a different punter-flu. 5 hours steady walk in a damp forest. Stretching session.

Next week STG: Bletch - YES. All the BLETCH.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - no chance. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - another bad week despite plenty of opportunity. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - yes. Look after injuries - hmmmm trying, but struggling, (gym x 1) - x 1, weak, elbow rehab x 2 - x 1, sore, shoulder rehab x 2 - x 1, stretching x 3 - x 1.

M - Ill. 3 hours steady walk in a damp forest. Managed to squeeze the buried fern stalk out of my thumb. Highlight of the week.
fernthumb.jpg
T - Ill. 5 hours steady walk in a damp forest. Drama with gf so feeling crap.

W - Ill. 3 x 5, 2 x 6A (all briefly worked). Shit connies. 30 mins walk.

T - Ill. Indoor bouldering. 10 x V2-4, 7 x V3-5 (some flash, some briefly worked, plus attempted 3 more). Busy, greasy holds, everything harder than it looked. Felt I was moving okay but incredibly weak. Skin bad, elbow a bit sore.

F - Ill. Nothing.

S - Less ill. Gym. Misc VeryWeakWeights(tm). Elbow rehab - elbow sore and already sore in morning. Shoulder rehab. Stretching session. 4 mins insertion / 1 min full immersion cold water (5.5'c) punishment.

S - Indoor routes @ Summit Up. F6a, F6a+, F6b, F6b+, F6b+, F6c, F6c, F6c+. Practise falls on most. Elbow got sore so quit early. Specifically took it gently - god easier routes are fucking dull. Weak and unfit as expected.


Fascinating start to the New Year with almost everything in my body feeling the worst it has (apart from shoulders not so bad?) and the mind lagging not far behind. Am as deconditioned, derecruited and as unfit as it's possible to be without being reclassified as flora or funghi. The one bronze lining to the whole debacle is that the path forward - regular climbing wall volume and some gym work - is quite appealing and logistically easy.


Next week STG: Recondition body with regular indoor climbing and gym. Look after GE that's got much worse with too much inactivity.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.
 
Thanks for all the PU hate! Vile things.

Duncan sounds like it's going pretty well considering your injury before the trip! (though don't you always seem to do this?)

Hosey, welcome! Pretty sure we've got no protocol here I really just use it as an incentive to write stuff down, and therefore, an incentive not to sink into inactivity! Don't get injured through new toy (tindeq) induced psyche.

Nik, surely you could get a bit more done while out with the boys? You seem to be getting to the crag/wall a lot but spending all your time as support crew (which is of course great if you're happy with that)

Fiend and everyone else, get well soon! I am selfishly gratified that so many other people seem to have been ill too!
 
Nik, surely you could get a bit more done while out with the boys? You seem to be getting to the crag/wall a lot but spending all your time as support crew (which is of course great if you're happy with that)
The issue is more the dogs than the kids. Got a puppy (and had a second one in tow on Saturday) that hasn’t yet got the behaviour dialled for crag visits. Hoping putting the work in now will give longer term benefits… but you’re right, I need to hit the right balance of dog free trips out.
 
Happy 2025 power munchers

82kg



Monday -

Moonboard session 2019 set at 25degrees
Did 5+ to 6a benchmarks.
Tried 14, flashed 12. Failed on two.
60 min peloton ride

Tuesday
Easy Tennis. New Year’s Eve

Wednesday
New Year’s Day. Long walk up Porter Valley to Ringinglow Road & back.

Thursday
18mm edge finger board
5x10s hangs. Total weight = 95.7kg
12mm edges. 5x 7s hangs. Total weight 75.7kg
1 hour peloton ride

Friday
Rest.

Saturday
90min finger board & Moonboard session. Picked off more benchmarks. Tried 10, flashed 7. Three escaped.
Finished with a set of double laps on the auto belays. 6b+ & 6a+. Knackered afterwards

1 hour Peloton ride in the evening

Sunday
Rest day
 
Power Club

Mon - boxe.
Tue - weights, 1 cm edge hangs.
Wed - TBDL, Lattice edge mixed grips.
Thu - board climbing, cool session. Set and tried two problems. Back work.
Fri - boxe.
Sat - weights.
Sun - boxing bag.

Happy new year everyone!!!
 
Morning folks. I tried to get involved in this last year but it didn't work out. This time I mean it. I am currently very very weak but am determined to make good on it. Got a good feeling about 2025.

Weds - 5k jog, light kettlebells swings and get ups
Thurs - 5k jog, light kettlebells as before
Fri - hamstrings feeling it so stretched
Sat - 5k jog, shoulder feeling tweaks, decided to back off the kettlebells
Sun - a whole load of stretching with the timer, working on my many weaknesses, dishes, QL straddles, 90/90 splits and some youtube stretch routines. Got the iron mind grippers out, can still do the #1 but cannot approach the #2. 3 sets of 2 pull ups. 3 sets of 5 press ups.

Nik - I am very excited to hear that Nik's Wall is getting some attention. I heard you have to crimp coin edges to get up the thing, legendary problem.
 

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