Power Club 781 25 Nov - 1 Dec 2024

[duncan]

M - Shoulder/elbow rehab.: one arm locks at 120 elbow flexion, with some assistance x3s. Two arm lock-offs at 120 x10-15s. Handstands. Walked 10km. Plumbing: fitted isolation valve to bathroom cold water supply.

T - Shoulder/elbow rehab. as above. Plumbing: fitted new ball valve to the toilet cistern.

W - Shoulder/elbow/wrist conditioning: as above plus reverse curls. Hip flexibility.

T - Shoulder/elbow rehab. as above.

F - Westway 4x 4a, 4 x4c. Elbow pretty sore after this, not ideal. BBC Symphony Orchestra and chorus playing and singing Haydn’s Nelson Mass and Strauss’s Ein Heldenleben, wonderful.

S - Shoulder rehab. conditioning

S - Shoulder rehab./conditioning. Hip flexibility.

Not the greatest of weeks, elbow was improving with the one-arm locks then got worse again. Three weeks til I'm off to Jaén, need to forget training and focus on rehab.ing to make sure I can not feel too frustrated on the trip. Will rest for a couple of days then try to very gently ramp things back up.

 

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Keep up with general conditioning - not enough supportive stuff. Don't go too far if fatigued - too much digging..
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - nooooope. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - I guess just about enough contact. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - elbow going okay, shoulders generally gammy, (gym x 1) - no, elbow rehab x 2 - no, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - x 1 and should have been much more.


M - Rest. 45 mins stroll. Woke up with everything aching apart from left leg, so for once a rest day was actually warranted.

T - Minor activity.

W - Indoor bouldering @ Summit Up. 4 x V2-3, 6 x V3-4, 6 x V4-5 (4 flash, 2 x 2nd go, plus attempted 3 more that were close-ish). Felt fine on the warm-ups and mostly rubbish on anything trickier. Elbow a bit sore but okay. Shoulders and arms flamed after.
3 hours sporadic excavating, trundling, and scrubbing. Not too tired at the time but another terrible warm-up. Well done me.

T - Active rest. 1 hour walk. 4 mins insertion / 45 seconds immersion cold water punishment. Shoulders and arms felt okay in the morning and fine after.

F - Minor activity.

S - 4+ hours excavating, digging, trundling, scraping, hacking and scrubbing. Terrible training but at least I didn't try to go to the wall afterwards.

S - Indoor bouldering @ RockOver Shartson. 6 x V1-3, 6 x V2-4, 6 x V3-5 (5 flash, 1 x 3rd go), 3 x V4-6 (2 flash, 1 briefly worked), 3 x V5-7 (2 flash, 1 x 3rd go). Also attempted a few V4-6s including the stupid lcl-tearing heelhook + blocked hold one, the stupid sideways jump off a volume one, and the stupid mantle your own arsehole off sloping shelf one. Didn't even try the stupid full dyno off underclings one, but generally enjoyed the ones with actual climbing. Probably still a bit fatigued but good fun. Elbow a bit aggravated but okay given the load. Cuddles with Wolfie the staffie x alsation x misc others. Stretching session.


Bletch. Did aim for an easier week after last weekend's success, but didn't do well with an overall balance especially the shambolic lack of mobility and rehab stuff.


Next week STG: Keep up with general conditioning. Don't go too far if fatigued. More mobility. Less digging.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

 

[nik at work]

M - nothing
T - the works. Had a play on the spray wall in unit E with Sam (mostly watching tbh). Then did Irn-Bru’s.
W - nothing
T - After school dash to Rubicon. Sam on his proj. Latched the first move for a brief moment. Linked second and third move. Did third move easily several times. Very nearly linked third and fourth move. Did fourth move a few times. The he tried some new foot beta for first move which he thinks might work, but was pretty beasted at this point so hard to tell… still making progress every session (think this is maybe 3rd sesh for him?). However I am not making any progress at all, still can’t pull on at any point, never mind try a move. Relegated to spotting and photographs.
F - fly to Isle of Man
S - went to the two walls on the island. Reasonable board sesh at the first wall. Did the comp set at the second wall. Unfortunately Dylan strained his finger half way through the set so we bailed. Did 22 of the 25 problems, realistically probably wouldn’t have done the other three even if we’d stayed a bit longer…
S - walk in the rain, fly home.

I’m very busy with work for the next two weeks, and Sam is understandably super syked for Rubicon. So suspect I won’t be doing much climbing. Just running him out to Rubicon as opportunity arises.

STG - monitor weather forecast and time windows for climbing with decent conditions.

 

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T. Evening board session - decent one, normal routine.
W.
T. Evening board session - same as above. Messed around with some one arm lock offs and these seem to be improving slightly. Used to be able to do a fairly convincing 1-armer on my RH and half on my LH but after injuries haven't been able to even lock off. So I was quite happy to hold at about 90 degrees on each arm for a couple of seconds.
F.
S. Weird tiredness took over me, got pretty exhausted carrying my lad around the local woods.
S. My lad's 3rd birthday party - not to be underestimated, I was completely flattened by the end of the day!!

 

[Duma]

Hope the rehab goes well Duncan.

M - Albarracín, Techos and Pinturas. Late start then mostly support crew for the first few hours. Did a couple of lovely 6B+'s Clementina and Memoria Cetaceta, along with Pos Sí 7A though. Annoyingly started to rain just as we headed down to Pinturas. Gf Headed back to the car but I wandered over to at least have a look at the mighty Pinturas Buldestras 8A. Oh my lord it's gorgeous. The shower stopped almost immediately and it was only the top jug getting wet, so I hung around and the wind did it's thing. Few desultory goes on the sit moves, but mostly trying the move across to the LH Gaston. Lots of refining feet but never quite held it. Rain started again after an hour so bailed.
T - Albarracín, Pinturas again. Couple of licheny 5's, then the excellent Calientahielos 6C (after a couple of goes to work out that the line in the guide was nonsense). Then back to Pinturas Buldestras, GF power spotting allowed me to work the move, but never really felt close without assistance, so despite doing the sit moves and the next couple (never had a proper go at the final pop) decided to sack it. Shame as on paper it should be perfect for me (slightly overhanging, crimps, needs good footwork) but I think in the end I just wasn't good enough on the RH slot/crimp/pinch this time. Glorious day and wanting to get something out of it I went round the back of the boulder and managed Atlas 7B after a bit of tussling (and waiting for a cloud), rode the psyche to flash the excellent Galimatías 7A+, loved the rockover at the end of the traverse. Trundled to the boulder below thinking to finish off on the amazing looking rock of Session Stout 6B+ and Imperial IPA 6A+, these 2 really look like you're climbing a huge fossilized tree trunk rather than sandstone. Sadly don't climb quite as well as they look. Not feeling quite done (and with the end of the trip looming a couple of days away) stuck the pad down under the striking slab of Gratonismo Craneoencefálico 7A+. Wanted to try this since I first came here, as you approach the hill up to Techos it really sticks out. It's big but the landing's good , and thankfully turns out the top section eases considerably. Amazing problem, did it again for vid. Still not sated I managed El Pedal 7A+, this is called (Energia Cinética in the other book) unusual move and spooky top out on my own. Finally a few low 6's on the same block to finish off, annoyingly bruised my heel jumping down. Walked out via Ronin to check out a few things (including the eponymous 7B that looks amazing) might try and get back here tomorrow if possible.
W - Albarracín, Techos and Ronin. Warmed up and spotted at Techos, then down to Ronin. Straight to the brilliant looking prow (albeit over a nasty pit landing) of Brexit 7A, good flash go but blinded by the sun and nervous of the fall I bailed after a big fight. Completely destroyed just from that go, took a while to recover before scraping up 3rd try. Brilliant, and terrifying, but the effort ended my day, I was only fit for soaking up the ambience and snoozing in the sun for the rest of the afternoon while the gf climbed. No bad way to spend the last few hours at the crag, and no surprise I eventually ran out of beans 5th day on at the end of a 4 week trip I suppose...
T - travel
F -
S -
S -

72 kg.

 

[nik at work]

Sounds like you’ve had a great trip Duma :2thumbsup:

I sit jealously in my cold damp workshop listening to the rain…

 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - AM as usual; PM boxe.
Tue - AM as usual. Mental day at work.
Wed - AM as usual; PM boxe.
Thu - weights, bentover rows, bar work.
Fri - board climbing, tried two new problems.
Sat - weights.
Sun - board climbing, a strange mixture of strength and heaviness from Saturday's weights. Got close on two problems. Happy about the setting.

 

[oldfella]

Great read Duma. the trip reports are always the highlights for me. :coffee:

Post-Op Power Club
Back on wall . The op went well, and feel and look healthy again.

Wednesday –
Peloton bike ride for 40mins

Thursday –
Horseshoe Quarry Main wall. Beautiful day. Lots of sun, great conditions.
Spent the day on top rope solo, couldn’t find a belayer, no one at the crag either.
Climbed Private Prosecution (2 laps), Run for your wife (2 laps) Legal Action (2 working goes).
Despite being on my own, it was a great day out. Fingers crossed I manage to get back out with a belayer before the end of the year. Unsurprisingly, people are preferring to head indoors.

Friday
Rest day

Saturday
Virgin Gym for strength training. 5 sets of 5 Pull ups on the minute. 5 sets of 10 push ups on the minute. Lost so much strength………. :boohoo:
Went to Awesome Walls for a redpoint session in the evening as I couldn’t find a belay, poor conditions as well. Probably wet at Horseshoe anyway. Aim to redpoint a 6c or harder in an hour. Managed to do one 3rd try and then squeezed in another 6c second try as they were closing.

Sunday
30min peloton ride.

Pleased to be back

 

[Fiend]

Back on the wagon Gav!

 

[Dolly]

M
T Higgar for Shame on. Firstly and most importantly I had a brilliant time hanging and moving on slopes that were only just “ holds”. This is just the best grit stuff. I was one move away from doing it but I loved the whole thing. Secondly. I didn’t think it was soft for the grade. I know I’m 60 and old and weak etc but I’m not that weak yet. Loved it. Back for another go on Wednesday
W Wood club. Carrying lifting etc
T Carrhead Rocks with lagers What an afternoon. There are some ace problems there. Lagers campussed his way across things with the added one arm hang for show. Watched a barn owl hunting just below us Magic
F Burbage N. I did 9 problems I hadn’t done before ( or maybe I didn’t remember if I’d done them before ) Again I was guilty of enjoying myself climbing on small brown rocks
S Some DIY stuff cutting wood for shelves and knocking mortar off bricks with a lump hammer which was surprisingly tough
S

 

[Fultonius]

Got bad at logging, so not really sure what I did last week... Wrist rehab, one session on Friday working on the 45 woody trying to build some base bouldering strength back.

Yoga one day.

Hmm.... Mainly resting after the trip.

Oh, yeah, was away with work for a 2 day thing so got a 40 length swim in. (1km).