Power Club 776 21 - 27 Oct 2024

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duncan

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M - The Reach with csl. Warmed-up with the usual shoulder conditioning, hip flexibility and a tiny bit of fingerboarding. Attempted routes to 7a. A good session: some falling off and I felt stronger on small holds than for some time.

T - Battered. Hip flexibility. Walked 10km. Inspected gutters using phone attached to pongoose clipstick (the adjustable head works well for this) mirroring to laptop. Felt competent. Cleaned out leaves blocking the downpipe with a spoon attached to the clipstick. Felt useful.

W - Hip flexibility, shoulder conditioning.

T - High Tor with shark. ‘Warmed-up’ on Right To Roam (E2), his new one that follows Original Route to about 2/3 height then roams diagonally left crossing Perseus, Darius, and Ariadne’s, finishing up Robert Brown. Got as far as Darius but was feeling out of sorts so retraced my steps back to Original Route and ended up doing this. RtR is a typical High Tor diagonal: unobvious but the line makes sense when you’re on it. It’s an amenable grade and the climbing was good as far as I got. I’d like to go back and finish it off when I'm feeling a bit more confident.

Reset on Memories (6a) on the right wing. Apparently I did this in 2016 and 2017 but ironically I can’t remember either time (the second was just before dislocating my shoulder which dominates my recall of that day). The sun came out, I drank tea, and life improved. Led Zed Legs (E1) and Y Front (E2), both very worthwhile. I found the latter quite tricky, Simon scampered up it. Probably should have done another route but was feeling tired. A two stop drive home: slow but safe.

F - Short fingerboard session (20 and 15mm rungs; crimp, half-crimp and 3 finger drag; 4-6 seconds x 2 each).

S - Short fingerboard session. Was feeling a bit under-par so nothing on the 15mm rungs. Walked 11km. Fidelio at the Royal Opera. Great singing and playing, not a fan of the production.

S - Hip flexibility, shoulder conditioning.


A bit disappointed by my efforts on Right to Roam but most of us have days like this. It's been two and a half months since my last significant trad. (Space Cadet) so I was possibly being a bit ambitious. A 5am start and 3+ hours drive doesn't help either. After nearly nodding-off on the drive home last month I should probably call time on solo day trips to Derbyshire.

I feel like my fingers are getting a little stronger and am relatively free of tweaks but need a bit of time on rock.
 
Power Club

Mon - AM as usual; PM push ups in hotel room.
Tue - climbin gym, hot, finger injury is still very there. Rings, bar work. Nice.
Wed - weights, finally.
Thu - AM as usual; PM board climbing, I tried.
Fri - AM as usual. Mental day.
Sat - AM as usual; PM push ups. Very short on time.
Sun - board climbing, much better than last time. Very nice session!
Note to self: avoid climbing gyms like the plague.
 
Bleurrghhhh club....

CBFA this week - sure it'll get better but being back in Sheff ain't filling me with joy right now...

M: Routes @ AW - F6a to F6c+/7a felt hard!
T: Nowt
W: Short MB Session @ AW - 10 problems up to 6B
T: Nowt
F: Routes @ AW - F6a+ - F6c+ - Fell off 6c+ for fuck sake!
S: Nowt
S: Boulder @ Burbage Earl - Shit the bed! Never seen it so busy at Fox House! Only had a couple of hrs and really wanted a bit of alone time so walked to far end, did What a Way to Spend Easter (6C) a few times, wanted to do Pocket Wall or Fuji Heavy Industries but was busy so tried to repeat Little Rascal (7A) as not done it for at least 10years... Took ages to figure out and by the time I did had lost most of my skin so left sans cigar... Good fun tho!

Meh... Nice to get out on grit, not sure it fills me with the joy it used to... Maybe I just need to get out on it more.
 
I haven’t posted for a few weeks. I’ve been climbing been ill and usual life stuff
M beastmaker
T travelled to Siena
W mini paralettes work out. Good light travel workout tool
T I met the UKB legend that is Nibile and climbed or tried to climb on his board. Firstly and most importantly he’s a warm friendly and generous human being. It was great to hang out with him. Secondly he’s an absolute beast and strong as an ox. I knew I’d get my arse kicked :)
F
S mini paralettrs again
S Nibiles board again. I was slightly less crap but only a bit. He was of course super strong
 
Nibs is completely lovely, and a total beast :)

Mon - nothing I think
Tues - AW auto belay up to 7c. Then some 7A/7A+ on the Kilter with varying success
Weds - The Works random trying all sorts session
Thurs - nothing
Fri - nothing
Sat - travel to Kalymnos
Sun - arrive Kalymnos ;D
Went somewhere in the afternoon and did 6b+ and 7a+ and lots of belaying.

Still in Kaly, with half of Sheffield it seems…
 
Hey guys you're too kind!
And since we are on the matter...
@nik, I still remember my stay on the Isle of Man as a dream come true, thank you so much, it would not have been possible without your hospitality.
@Dolly, I'm glad you had fun and most of all thank you for the psyche and setting new problems! Come back soon!
 
Running late this week, not been very psyched for reasons below:

M - eve, run, 6k, hilly, trail, 34 min. Lovely as the sun set.
T - eve, TCA, 120 min. Mainly vert and slab. 4 whites (2 flash, 2 quick), 3 blacks (1 flash, 2 quick), 2 blues (1 all but the last move, stopped to protect finger, 1 still working moves, but decent progress). Wrist much improved, finger no change, still being careful and working round it.
W - eve, TCA, 120 min. Limited new stuff and not many projects that don't tweak finger so a bit aimless. 3 circuits (~6c, 6b+, 7a) to warm up, 2 whites (1 repeat, 1 flash) 2 blacks (1 repeat, 1 2nd go), 2 blues (working same 2 as yesterday, decent links now on both). Wrist better again, finger no change.
T - eve TCA, 90 min. Shouldn't have gone but meeting a mate I hadn't seen for a while. Took it easyish, then properly aggravated the finger on something I thought would be straightforward, and friendly shapes. Fuck.
F - finger bruised and painful to straighten
S - as above
S - as above

72 kg.

I am a twat. 4 weeks in Spain from tomorrow so excellent timing. (It has eased a bit this week thankfully, so we'll see how it goes)
 
Gutted for you Duma.

Hope you still have a great time in Spain. 4 weeks is a long trip, I’m sure you’ll be sharing great updates before too long.

I’d love to be in your position. I’d take 4 weeks of climbing grade 5 in Spain if that’s all I could do.

Venga venga.
 
Yeah I'm not someone who can only enjoy it when they push hard, so sure will still have fun. Feel a bit bad for whinging about my finger niggle when I'll be driving past Valencia today though...
 
Duma said:
Yeah I'm not someone who can only enjoy it when they push hard, so sure will still have fun. Feel a bit bad for whinging about my finger niggle when I'll be driving past Valencia today though...

Andy (process physiotherapy) does remote appointments and is great for keeping you climbing whilst rehabbing. Could be worth booking in if it doesn't start improving. I had many appointments with him whilst in Spain!
 

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