Power Club 768 26 Aug - 1 Sep 2024

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Duma

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
6,036
Location
in the moment
M - finished partying at 4am. Wrung the last drops out of it. Rest of day sleeping, driving, unpacking, sleeping, washing, looking at sparkly pics and wishing I was still there, sleeping.
T - aft TCA, 90 min, didn't feel great, and faded fast, but surprisingly got a fair bit done. 3 whites (2 flash, 1 second go), 2 blacks (both flash), and 1 blue (second go). Also a few attempts at a couple of blacks from last week and a new blue.
W - 12 hr shift. Sleep was still messed up, felt unsurprisingly awful.
T - 12 hr shift. Better sleep meant a much more bearable shift.
F - full on day of DIY. Top tip - do not re-glass your own flat roof, pay someone else.
S - exhausted, bit more DIY but much more manageable today. Couple of hours walking.
S - aft, TCA, 120 min. 3 whites (2 flash, 1 attempted), 7 blacks (1 flash (thanks Ollie for beta), 1 repeat, 2 third go, 1 that I'd spent a few sessions on, 2 attemped), 2 blues (2 attempted).

70 kg.
 
Party hard Duma :dance1:



Next week STG: Keep trying harder on trad if suitable - No. Very No.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - No. Very No. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - no worse than usual. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - no. Look after injuries - , (gym x 1) - no, elbow rehab x 2 - none, shoulder rehab x 2 - none, stretching x 3 - none.


M - Active rest. 1 x E2 5c.

T - Active rest. F6a, F6b+, F6c. No time for practise falls.

W - Rest. 1 x E1 5a. Generally quite anxious.

T - Rest. 1 x VS. Generally a bit dispirited.

F - Active rest. 1 x E1 5c, 4 x HS-VS solos.

S - Active rest. Wiltonfest. Some walking, some brushing & chalking routes, a lot of talking.

S - Indoor bouldering @ Rockover Shartson. 6 x V1-3, 10 x V2-4, 10 x V3-5 (7 flash, 3 x 2nd go), 4 x V4-6 (4 flash, plus attempted 6 more). No LingLing cuddles as she's not in on a Sunday. Felt sluggish, weak, and very de-conditioned after 8 days without any pulling hard. Took ages to warm-up and then got frustrated on some of the super-burly yob-style V4-6s, but actually I did okay. Like, weak and heavy bad okay, but not that bad. A warm-up session overall.


"NO"


Next week STG: Keep trying harder on trad if suitable.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.
 
Monday - rested

Tuesday - Edge Lifts, Circuit Session. Quite frankly felt toss; started tired, only got more so

Wednesday - board sesh. Acceptable. Weighted pullups, did 3 reps with 30kgs as many sets as I could till I failed a rep. Did eight sets. Rows and such.

Thursday - rested

Friday - Bouldering circuit sesh. Acceptable. Edge Lifts. 3x Pints

Saturday - Chill easy stuff. Bench press up to 90kgs. 4x Pints.

Sunday - Felt inexplicably full of beans. Weightlifting in the morning, loads of squats and cleans. Then Edge Lifts, then max effort bouldering, easier bouldering, campusing. Some core.

Vaguely mental today, very peak ADHD. Any kind of real outdoor bouldering time a vague memory. Progression is at about 1% per year now as far as I can tell. Seriously considered giving up climbing and decided fuck it I'll keep at it, I like the people.
 
Thanks Duma.
Your week of what’s goes up must come down.


Monday -

Fingerboard session at home
18mm edges
3 hangs BW + 7.5kg
3 hangs total weight 91.1kg.
BW + 13.75kg
BW 77kg

12mm edges
total weight. 81.4kg.
Two hangs body weight plus 2.5kg
Four hangs body weight plus 4kg.

Tuesday
Rest day

Wednesday
Strength training at Virgin Gym

Thursday
Fingerboard session at home
18mm edges
3 hangs BW + 7.5kg
3 hangs total weight 91.1kg.
BW + 13.75kg
BW 77kg

12mm edges
total weight. 81.5kg.
Two hangs body weight plus 2.5kg
Four hangs body weight plus 5kg. New PB.

Friday
Rest

Saturday
Strength Training at the gym in the morning

After lunch, climbing at Hidden Quarry. Did two warm ups, with the goal of redpointing Aperta. 7a. I did Spirit of Ecstasy (6b) putting in the draws, which was a real good way to upping the intensity before Aperta. I’d not been on this since August 2020.
This enabled me to put the 7a on a top rope ready for my next tie in. Conserving time & energy. Did all the moves and links on the working go. Then did it next go. First time since 1998 where I’ve done a 7a (grade24, back then) in 2 tie ins.
Very pleased with my climbing at present.

Maybe it’s because I’m not avoiding these grades like I had before.

Sunday
Rest day
 
Power Club

Mon - weights.
Tue - weights.
Wed - loaded carries.
Thu - weights.
Fri - DL 6x5 110 kg. Bentover rows. High pulls. Shoulder static holds, half session.
Sat - shoulder static holds, half session.
Sun - boxing bag.
Finally back to some heavy weights after a few weeks of mostly conditioning. Shoulder seems fine, sooner or later I'll have to summon my courage and get back on the board.
 
Power Club:

M. Family camping in Edale
T. Evening board session - max hangs then a couple of problems on the board, slight tweak in left hand after using a gaston so ended the session there.
W.
T. Evening board session, warmed up properly then did about 40 mins of hard bouldering. No sign of tweakiness.
F.
S. Day pass and favourable weather forecast - headed to N. Wales. Stopped off at Roof of a Baby Buddha, but there was a clear sign saying no parking in the usual spot and looked like forestry works going on (anyone know the current access situation here???), so left and went with Plan B. Bustach boulders - walk in was longer than I remembered! Bustach Prow 7B+ has been on my wishlist since I saw it in my student days. Flashed the first half, figured out the next couple of moves easily but then struggled with the final throw with the RH (mixture of being scared and holding the LH wrong). Did eventually do the move and started to get excited that I might do it in a session, but when it came to linking I messed up the first half a couple of times and then lost too much skin and arms faded. Went and did Bill Psyches 6B+ before walking back to the van. Ran out of time to check out Craig Y Llyn as I'd hoped.
S.

Nice to get out this week and pretty happy with my performance on Bustach Prow. Disappointed not to finish it off, but I must be in a better place if 7B+'s are feeling doable in a session. Might've been if I'd have figured out that final move quicker but hey ho.
 
Duma, sounds like great training for high altitude mountaineering!

M - Rest day. Walked 5km to the La Sportiva factory and shop. Amazing range - this is where you try on TC Extremes in preparation for your winter ascent of the Hasse-Brandler - but no great bargains.

T - Castel di Bombasel, Cermis Skyline Via Feratta.

This is a well equipped VF that follows the skyline of the Laghi di Bombasel cirque, a ridiculously scenic spot. It was built in 2018 to encourage folk to use the Cavalese cable car which has a sorry history, here and here, to overcome.

Possible thunderstorms were forecast for 2pm, so we got the first lift and started climbing at 10.30, before the guides. The route follows a ridge for about 250m of ascent. We were near the top around 11.15 when the fluffy clouds darkened. Shortly after there was thunder and lightning about a mile off and the rain and hail started. We got off the ridge, as far from the cables as we could, and sat on our rucksacks. Lightning struck close by, hitting the summit cross I think, about 70m further along the ridge. The lad said he felt a mild electric shock. There were two more strikes in swift succession, fortunately further away. We waited 20 minutes after which the rain stopped and got moving again to avoid the guided group. We didn't hang around at the summit (the cross was still hot to the touch) although the clouds had disappeared as quickly as they had formed.

W - Drove back to Lake Garda, went for a swim, then on to Milan and home.

T - Shoulder/wrist conditioning: handstands, reverse curls, side planks.

F - Walked 10km.

S - Shoulder conditioning. Berlin Philharmonic and Víkingur Ólafsson at the Proms. Schumann and Smetana. Absolutely astonishing playing.

S - Shoulder conditioning. Berlin Philharmonic at the Proms. Bruckner’s 5th Symphony.


First experience of a Dolomites lightning storm, too exciting for about 15 minutes but lessons were memorably learned. We’d talked beforehand about the need to get a move on, when to keep going and when to turn around, and about appropriate footwear and clothing (it is NOT ok to wear Air Jordans and baggy jeans, yes you do need to carry a rain jacket even though the sky is blue right now). Almost unprecedentedly, the lad acknowledged I might have had a point on a couple of things! Overall, fun was had and another Via Ferrata trip wouldn't be dismissed.

Plan: a short trip to Lundy the week after this which I'm very excited about. Main goal is to not get injured before then. A bit lacking in recent trad. mileage but I'll still be in much better shape than my last visit 16 years ago when I was recovering from shoulder surgery, taking my job too seriously, and climbing HVS on a good day.
 
M - Long day.
T- Nothing
W - Nothing
T - Nothing
F - Board. Good to be back. Low grade project ticked off. Day 8 post snip so really glad dropping from the top felt totally normal.
S - Nothing
S - Nothing

Try some running this week I think. Also been finding that when I can get out or even on board pain in skin is incredibly limiting. Forked out for a nature holds stone hanger purely for skin prep. Sure to make a difference given just how soft my skin is!
 
Sounds amazing Duncan, and looking forward to Lundy report!

Smashing out the 7a's Gav, you think this is more about your attitude to them, training, or the elbow surgery earlier this year?
 
Duma said:
Smashing out the 7a's Gav, you think this is more about your attitude to them, training, or the elbow surgery earlier this year?

I think it’s mindset.

Physically & training wise I’m probably doing less now & have a swallowing disorder which is impacting on sleep and nutritional intake.
 
Tepid week

M - 5 km lunch trot to Pheppie Burn crag for what was going to be a toprope session on a trad project, but ropegun was slow leaving his house, and still faffing when I left so chatted for a bit and had to leave him to it. evening - 10k
T - short lunch walk. Some weight training, mostly dumbell flys
W - not a vast deal other than short lunchtime walk. Some finger pickups
T - Lunchtime J-heugh session. Overcast morning and rough sea meant rock was slightly briny, disappointingly, but still did the 6A as a warmup, then continued trying to unlock moves on the other 7A+. Can nearly do most of the moves now, but feels a step up in difficulty. might be undergraded? or the other one is not 7A+. Anyway, enjoying the process, be nice to unlock it before conditions crap out.
F - 12km run evening.
S - all day helping out at athletics club chamionships. Hard work.
S as above, plus quick blast on MTB on new trails up in Banchory Woods. Good but pretty short.

less than 2 weeks til Crathes Half. Should have really put in a long run at some point over the weekend, but hey ho.
 
I thought I’d try this out again after years away
If I don’t stay it just means I’ve got other stuff going on
M My first time at Hobson moor quarry picking my daughter up after a party in Glossop ( I know. She was OK). Much better than I feared. Nice warm ups. Did This way where I had to pull a bit
T. Drive to Manchester airport. Stayed in The Clayton. Rubbish
W. Flew to Bologna then drove to Siena where my daughter is studying for 5 months. At the small risk of stating the obvious it’s staggeringly beautiful. Hard walk up proper steep hills pulling 40kg of luggage. Cocktails pici all’alliogne and bed
T. Pick ups as the young people say with a suitcase weighing as much as I could pack in. Surprisingly hard
F. I walked 11k around the city and ate some ok food :)
S. As Thursday but had some great sea bass in the evening
S. I survived the culinary wasteland that is Siena
 

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