Next week STG: See if I can try hard on a trad route
- no, and getting further away.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes
- n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad)
- yes above a pad,
no on a rope. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners
- some affable and possible useful networking on Tue / Wed. Would be nice if established friends stayed in touch more.. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out
- n/a. Look after injuries
- seem to be okay / not worse, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2
- x1, shoulder rehab x 2
- x1, stretching x 3
- x1.
M - Rest. Moping.
T - Active rest. 3 x E1. Looked longingly and sadly at an inspiring E3 from a distance.
W - 8 x 6B-C (mostly flashed), 1 x 7A (worked). Digestion wonky in morning but better later. Surprised how (relatively) well my body worked once I got focused. See summary below.
T - Can't remember. Going to assume rest and probably rehab.
F - Active rest. 40 mins walk. 1 x E3 5c new route (headpointed). Cool route but gigapunting as usual.
S - Indoor bouldering @ Blochaus. 10 x V2-4 (9 flash, 1 x 2nd go), 9 x V3-5 (8 flash, 1 x 2nd go), 12 x V4-6 (8 flash, 2 x 2nd go, 2 x 3rd go). Many cuddles with a pair of bordoodles. As per Wednesday, I was surprised how well I did (despite being in a mopey mood after outside plans fell through). Blochaus setting has got better with more proper cranking and less "3 holds per problem" neanderthal lurching. Good workout and good fun.
S - France. 38'C. Gym session. Stretching.
Weird week. Still so shockingly timid on trad it's hard to believe. However it was an interesting experience trying bouldering again. I had guessed that a depression relapse was stopping my muscles firing and me actually pulling on anything, and with that slightly alleviated, and a bit more focus on the bouldering sessions, it seems I was correct, as I felt no weaker nor heavier than usual. This was somewhat reassuring, I now want to try to bridge the massive gap to applying that to routes....
Next week STG: Keep body active and see what happens.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.
duncan said:
They use V-grades for the regular wall where apparently I can climb V4 and Font. grades on the boards where I failed on 5As that were usually called something like Warm-Up 101. No surprise this is a weakness in the idiotic mentality of the twats who set and """grade""" problems on boards. In theory I should work on this although I'm not convinced how relevant it is to climbing E4/5 trad.
Warm-Up 101 lol. 2nd time you've given me a good laugh recently after "(12)" in a previous post.
As a general thing, the moonboard grades are utter dogshit with a grade spread of +/- 4 grades in the mid/high-6s. Utterly useless for training as you spend the entire session trying to find problems that are only +/- 2 grades and wasting time trying things that turn out to be either farcically graded or crap problems or usually both (with the numbers of holds in use often corresponding to the number of brain cells of the setter).
On the other hand, board climbing is often pretty relevant to climbing E4/5 trad because it really does help having massive amounts of strength and pulling ability in reserve. Obviously stamina is more important but the benefit of having a huge sport / bouldering buffer (even if you're not aware of it because you've not really pushed hard on sport / bouldering) is very important.
