Power Club 761 8 - 14 July 2024

[Duma]

M - aft, Cheddar, Remnant. With Adam L of this parish. Occasional rain and fairly warm, decidedly sub optimal connies. Lap of It's A Kind Of Magic 7a+ to warm up, then clips in to Bristol Weed, climbed middle and top sections to finish warm up. 3 redpoint attempts, first 2 decent, last one left index too sore to pull hard enough. Adjusted sequence for middle section after watching Adam, probably won't make or break but it's a bit higher percentage I think which is reassuring for when I eventually get through the crux. Possible new R foothold for end of crux too, also courtesy of Adam. Think it's better but hard to be sure when you get so few goes before pain stops play. Useful session anyway I think. Stopped in at TCA on the way home to see mates and ended up repeating a few whites and blacks. Back still uncomfortable, no change from last week.
T - Eve, TCA, 120 min. Whites and blacks, mostly steep. 3 problems, flashed 1, 1 took a few goes, 1 spent most of the session on, managed all moves but ran out of beans.
W - 12 hr shift.
T - 12 hr shift. Eve, run, 6k, hilly, trail, 29 min.
F - aft, TCA, 90 min, did the black I hadn't managed on Tuesday, pretty quick after changing from pinch to guppy. Also managed a new blue, I'd not tried this one on Tuesday, fun crimping.
S - Ban-Y-Gor. Couple of 6's to warm up, an East of Sweden link and Gordonzola, then over to crawl buttress for a rematch with the steep arete of Too Hot To Touch 7b, I had one go on this last year but it felt nails. Much better this time round, pretty comfortable second go. Great route with lovely rock, cool position and interesting moves. Was going to try the other classic 7b here, Just Too Hot, but partner had already done it so we did B'stard 7a+ to finish. Spooned the OS but casual second go.
S - hungover but dragged myself out for a (very slow) run in the evening, 6k, hilly, trail, 40 min.

72 kg.

Back annoying but think it might finally be starting to ease now.

 

[duncan]

M - Down to Weston to look after mum. Met up with shark at Uphill Quarry. In between showers he enjoyed the spad routes Images of War (E3 Fr6b) which I followed having done before, and Uphill Racer (E3/4 Fr6c?) which I am leaving for the grey point. I investigated some of the new sport routes on the Yellow Face, onsighting And Back (6b+) and The Gallic Shrug (6c) and redpointing Santa’s Bulge (6c/+).

T - Swam 0.5km in the Marine Lake. Shoulder conditioning, hip flexibility.

W - Uphill Quarry with Purple Sue, great to see her back in action. Warmed up on Judgement Day (6a) and Get Festive (6a+) then led Dead Sexy II (6b+) which takes rock to the left of Uphill Racer/Uphill Boy Racer. This is very good, the best of the newer additions, with some interesting technical climbing. Climbed The British Finger and ...Weston Super Mud, both 6b+ link-ups, then repeated both for training.

T - Swam 0.5km in the Marine Lake, sea swimming lite but a stiff breeze and choppy waves made this very tiring. Drove to N Wales.

F - Mixed weather so took the safe option of Rhoscolyn, meeting up with The Environmental Agent and other younger people. Climbed a line between the starts of Takahe and Savage Sunbird, an obvious gap which has been climbed several times before though not recorded. It’s around E3 Fr6b+ and took some try-hard. It’s probably ungentlemanly to mention my second fell off. The Environmental Agent led me up Savage Sunbird (E2 6a+) then I led Takahe with the arete finish (E2 6a+) a very good line worth two stars.

S - Another showery forecast, sore finger and shoulder, generally feeling tired, and with the prospect of more driving I went Craig Bryn Dulas rather anywhere more adventurous and did three of the recently rebolted routes there (all 6a+ to 6b). Another new crag for me, a lovely spot, though the climbing is not something I'll be rushing back for. Drove back to London.

S - Not much but did get out for an 8km walk.

Some good climbing, some shower dodging, but too much driving. My first try-hard on trad. this year and it isn't even in a guidebook! Feeling like I’m finally moving a bit more smoothly on rock so, assuming my aches settle, time to get on some more E3s. I’ll be in Weston during the week for the rest of the month so this will likely be local spad or trort rather than Pembroke.

 

[oldfella]

A quiet week. Letting flapper heal.

Monday -
Fingerboard at home
18mm edges
Six 10s hangs @ total weight 89kg
Six 7s hangs on 12mm edges @ total weight 81.6kg. YYFY. Added 2.5kg on top of body weight for these.

Tuesday
Rest day

Wednesday
Rest day

Thursday
Fingerboard session at home
Six 10s hangs @ 87.3kg
Five 7s hangs on 12mm edges at 79.3kg

Friday
Rest

Saturday

Depot Sheffield
4x4 bouldering on the hardwood 30 degree board


Sunday
Peloton ride in the morning

Strength training at Virgin Gym.

 

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Trad if suitable - yes but a fanny. Sport otherwise - n/a. Indoor training while it rains - yes. Keep moaning about being shit - did enough dramaing.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - dunno. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - a bit but..... Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - kinda, feel like there's a bit of contact on the go. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - yes but still not enough. Look after injuries - kinda but still grumbly, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2 - yes and felt it helping a bit, shoulder rehab x 2 - yes, stretching x 3 - x2 but should have done Fri.


M - 7A traverse (F7b spoulder grade?), 5th redpoint after working sections. Surprised I had the energy to keep going. 6C/+ in a few goes (would have easily flashed if I'd guessed the right beta). Shoulders and elbow sore.

T - Active rest. 180m flooded quarry swim. Back and arms burning from cold for the duration, 2 hours to warm-up afterwards. Shoulders and elbow sore but not worsened as I avoided front crawl.

W - Indoor routes @ Parthian. F6b, 2 x F6c, F6c+, 2 x F7a. Decent practise falls on all. Felt steady and a worthwhile little maintenance session. Stretching before and at half-time break. Shoulder and elbow rehab before. Elbow felt okay after warming into it, shoulder a bit sore but not as bad as some wall sessions.

T - ‌Indoor bouldering @ Onyx. 6 x V2-4, 6 x V3-5, 9 x V4-6 (7 flash, 2 x 2nd go (1 was a silly starting foot slip) - most felt easy), 1 (one) x V5-7 (2nd go, also attempted 5 - most felt way too hard to do quickly). Hadn't planned for a session but was in the area, and fancied it to clear my head. Body felt fine, energy felt good....and V5-7s felt desperate, quite an abrupt barrier. Whatevz. Stretching in between sets of boulders. Shoulder and elbow a bit sore after (and before tbh) but not too bad. 1 hour walk - got trenchfoot, nettled, brambled, and scraped ribs from squeezing under a fence.

F - Rest. Shoulders and elbow okay in morning. Elbow rehab. Lazy.

S - Trad @ Intake. E2 - steady; E3 - also steady but committing and had lots of drama princess panicking. Learnt a few things about my still-recovering climbing such as "lots of falling practise past bolts needs some translation to falling potential past rusty ring pegs" and "being prepared to fall because moves are hard needs some translation to being prepared to fall because the rock is crunchy and you already pulled a hold off", and "get a fucking grip Fiend you giga-fanny". Enjoyable though, nice to be back on the Peaks finest inland sea-cliff - I need to get to Pen Llyn asap for more training / enjoyment. Shoulder and elbow fine. Nice cuddles with pub whippet.

S - Active rest. Indoor routes @ Parthian. Top-rope laps on shortish routes: F6a x3, F6b x3, F6b x3, F6c x 3, F6c x3, F6b+ x3. Just to join in with partner who can't lead belay. A minor maintenance workout and the steeper F6c felt a bit tiring to lap. Shoulder and elbow okay. Shoulder rehab.


Hmmm. More confirmation how bad my trad still is (the idea of "three E3 5cs on top of each other with hands off rests in between" is totally incomprehensible), but at least I'm focused on trying to claw a little bit back. Injuries holding up a tiny fraction better with less cleaning / less front crawl, but still on a fine balance of functionality.


Next week STG: More adventurous trad if possible. Normal trad/sport otherwise.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxing bag.
Tue - 531 week 14. Bentover rows, GM with pause, abs. Torrid, had to resolve to an ice pack to get through the session.
Wed - various weights and pull ups, high pulls. 32° in the garage.
Thu - 5x clean, high pulls, bentover row x10 30' EMOM.
Fri - goblet squat and press, glutes, thruster.
Sat - 30' BW routine. Sweat it out.
Sun - farmer's, high pulls.

 

[csl]

July goals: Got a trip to N Wales planned for end of July and I'd like to be in the right headspace for something like Right Wall.
- Stick with the training, including lots of aerocap/arc
- Stop being lazy on weekends, its not hard to get the yoga mat out and do some stretching after childs bedtime/during naps
- 1x day out before Wales - hopefully High Tor, some questy wall climbing is what I need I think.
- Wales at end of month, do something off the lifetime list.

This weeks goal was: Wall x2 + exercise most days.

Mon: Nothing
Tue: Wall sesh. 6c, 7a, 7a failed, 7b dropped at top, 7b, 7c+ (soft, 7a+ max), 6c, 7b fail. 15 mins arc.
Wed: Nothing
Thu: 20 boulders between 6B+ - 7A.
Fri: stretching
Sat: 1 arm hangs, shoulder exercises, some mobility.


Struggled to balance the work stress + daily exercise, but better than last week.

This week: Get outside, do some trad routes or sportily bolted sport.

 

[monkoffunk]

M - Gym before work. Weighted pull ups. I’ve had some issues with my neck for a few months now, but unfortunately tweaked my left upper trap quite badly on final set. Pretty painful, ended session. Unable to look left all day. Yoga.
T - Rest
W - Went to see Huffy, which was really just fortunate timing as I was booked in to see him already about more minor elbow issue. Taught me some manipulations/stretch I can do with a sling. Great stuff. Even after one session head felt more clear and neck more mobile. Thoracic spine also tight like many climbers, taught me some stretches for that. Yoga.
T - Yoga.
F - Back in the gym, remarkably quickly, avoided the pull ups for now. Incline press, weighted shrugs, one arm rows, shoulder rotations. Kettle bell hammers for the elbow issue.
S - Nothing.
S - Night shift.

Daily neck stuff from Wednesday.

Hopefully some climbing again soon!

 

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

Mon - Thur. Struggled for motivation, felt weirdly tired. Even took myself out to the shed on Thurs but failed to actually pull on.
Fri. Lunchtime visit to Boulder Central as was passing, decent session, pretty hot and humid, spent most of my time working the powerful stuff on the main overhang.
S. Family day out to N. Wales. Did a bit of easy bouldering at RAC, then onto Porthmadog for the beach.
S. Garden DIY, BBQ and the footy.

 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Missed a week... Club

Week 760
M: In't Lakes - wet as an otter's pocket... Kendal wall - just bouldered, good session, did a load of V3-5's, a couple of V6's and a V7...
T: Rest
W: AW w/ GF - 10 x MB problems up to 6B - 5 x routes up to F6c.
T: 30mins local trail run
F: Routes @ AW - Mostly F6a+ to F6c+, tried to onsight a F7a+ but dropped it...
S: Works w/ Daughter - Fun session... DJ'd Dancehall til 4am (and then some!)
S: Hungover... Less said about that the better - going to take a while to recover from this one!

Week 761
M: Hungover walk in the Peak - Felt sick!
T: :sick:
W: Tried to climb - Did some F6b+'s and a F6c...
T: 30mins running in the Peak.
F: Nowt
S: 4hr wall session, mostly F6b - F6c+ with another go at the F7a+ I fell off - dropped it again, still tired from the weekend! 45mins running in the Peak...
S: Bouldering @ AW - Light session, managed a few pinks (V5-6ish) and a Yellow (V6-7ish) fun!

Struggled on... Stupid extended night out the previous weekend scuppered any hope of climbing well - Still not feeling right and it's over a week ago! Gotta remember I'm 50, not 20 and act accordingly (or just suffer!).. Doh!