Power Club 758 17 - 23 June 2024

Duma · Jun 23, 2024

M - couldn't be arsed to climb, so took a nap before my 12 hr night shift.
T - eve, TCA, 90 min. Whites and blacks in the back corner roof and wall. Did 4, flashed 1, 2 quick , 1 took a while. 2 I didn't try. Repeated another white and decent link on a blue. 12 hr night shift.
W - eve, TCA, 60 min. Whites and blacks in the vert corner upstairs , did all 4, flashed 2, 1 quick, 1 took a while. 12 hr night shift.
T - 12 hr night shift.
F - slept longer than I should have, then drank more than I should have.
S - hungover. Long walk was (eventually) rejuvenating.
S - Lynmouth West, first time here, beautiful venue and some great problems. Tutan Come On 6A+ was brilliant, then Giza Left Direct 6B. Then over to Eye Of The Storm bloc, finished warming up with The Mule 6C (great move to the jug). Pleased to flash Hurricane 7A, and very pleased to flash Eye Of The Storm 7B. Spent a while on the low start to this, but beans were running low so sacked it and finished with the slightly nervy Horizon 7A. Quick dip to finish, and a pint in the Rising Sun. Great day, excellent company, and every problem I did was really good.

duncan · Jun 24, 2024

Re: Power Club 757 17 - 23 June 2024

Thanks Duma, Lynmouth sounds good. Have been contemplating this part of the world for a family summer holiday. How much paddage is needed?

M - See last week. TL,DR: climbed The Plum at Tremadog and screwed my finger.

T - Drove back to London feeling glum. Walked a lot.

W - Fingerboard lifts: right hand only, light weights

T - Fingerboard lifts: right hand only, light weights. Hip flexibility: sumo squats, prone frog and standing pancake stretches.

F - Shoulder/elbow conditioning: handstands, side planks, press-ups.

S - Shoulder/elbow conditioning, hip flexibility.

S - ~400m swim in the mixed pond. Glorious.

Climbing out of the question this week and I’ve had to cancel a long anticipated trip to N Scotland.

Finger feels like a sprain, as the mechanism of injury would suggest. Flexor system is fine I think, not tendon or pulley, which is hopeful. Exensor system is still a bit suspect. With lots of strapping it should be good to climb very gentle stuff in a week or so. Due to head for Pembroke on Thursday, I will not be troubling any of the E3s or 4s!

csl · Jun 24, 2024

Re: Power Club 757 17 - 23 June 2024

Commiserations Duncan, hopefully you'll have a nice time at Pembroke despite the injury!

Goals: get out - do something on Spacehunter buttress before the ban, or some long trad E4+.

Friday at Spacehunter buttress, did the brilliant SkyScrape.

Mon: nothing

Tue: Vauxwall East. 30 mins bouldering, 1 on 1 off for 20 mins on circuit board, 15 mins arcing - hot and tiring.

Wed: Thu: Busy life and work, nothing - cold returned with vengeance

Fri: Spacehunter Buttress. Did Beverly’s Wall to warm up. Dogged up SkyScrape and felt like bailing - head cold making me feel like crap, struggled with crux section through first roof and couldn’t find a sequence. Second time up was a lot better, a couple of good links including doing the crux section.

Low expectations redpoint attempt went well, climbed fast when needed and rested in the two grooves, still ended up quite pumped by the time I’d pulled onto the final wall and nearly muffed the last moves before you reach left into a glory jug. What a route, felt like it was knocking on the door of 7c, but pure class either way. It was only 3:30pm by the time I came down so I hoped to have a run up Gunfighter too but ended up on a mammoth belay shift and it was 5.30pm by the time I lowered my partner off Wasn't really psyched to try and re-warm up so sacked it despite the long evening.

Keen to get back up there in September when unbanned - if anyone else is keen let me know?

Saturday - Sunday: Nothing - tired, lots of childcare. Should have managed to fit some training in but didn't manage it.

Next week: At Glastonbury festival from Thursday so will be another week where it's tricky to fit everything in, will try and train Tuesday + Thursday morning before I leave.

July goals: Got a trip to N Wales planned for end of July and I'd like to be in the right headspace for something like Right Wall.
- Stick with the training, including lots of aerocap/arc
- Stop being lazy on weekends, its not hard to get the yoga mat out and do some stretching after childs bedtime/during naps
- 1x day out before Wales - hopefully High Tor, some questy wall climbing is what I need I think.
- Wales at end of month, do something off the lifetime list.

Duma · Jun 24, 2024

Re: Power Club 757 17 - 23 June 2024

Nice work on Skyscrape CSL, that's on my list! Will likely be keen in September.

Hope finger heals quickly Duncan. Re pads at lynmouth, we had 5 and a big floppy topper thing which was plenty. 3 or 4 would be enough. But 2 would be quite limiting where we were I think, so might be a tricky spot for a solo session. We didn't go to Lynmouth East though. Locals would be better placed to give advice - I used Grants topos from his excellent https://www.exmoorbouldering.com/ site, which were really good.

Fiend · Jun 24, 2024

Re: Power Club 757 17 - 23 June 2024

Next week STG: Trad - barely but at least started.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - no, but I tried the latter a bit. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - ugh, keep trying but it's frustrating, also realising how some friends are drifting away. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - bit of a blip on Mon but shoulder better since, gym x 1 - no, elbow rehab x 2 - no but feeling okay, shoulder rehab x 3 - x 1, stretching x 3 - no and need to do a lot more.

M - 1 x 6C+. Attempted 7A and 6C+. Close on the latter. Shoulder sore.

T - Active rest. Photoshoot at Denham. Shoulder better.

W - Active rest. Photoshoot at Blackstone Edge. Leg day 50 mins walking. Shoulder rehab.

T - Active rest. 2 hours brushing and cleaning at Wilton 1. A bit tiring but not to arduous. No midges. Shoulder okay.

F - Active rest. Photoshoot at Lester Mill. Also climbed E1 and E2 - very enjoyable.

S - Attempted 7A. Hampered by damp hold (despite great conditions in the air) and being weak / tired / heavy. 3rd session in. Not as close as 2nd session. Shoulder a bit sore after but okay.

S - Rest.

Mmmm. The realisation that I am fucking up yet another summer trad climbing has slowly percolated into my thick skull which has cracked under the pressure. Friday felt like a bit of a turning point of getting the guidebook / actual-fucking-climbing balance right. I need to continue with that, as well as tackling the shit-show of my general organisation and trying t rally currently-hypothetical like-minded, communicative, patient, climbing partners.

Next week STG: Trad if fresh. Sport if warm.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), (elbow rehab x 2), shoulder rehab x 3, stretching x 3.

mr chaz · Jun 24, 2024

Re: Power Club 757 17 - 23 June 2024

Power Club:

M.
T.
W. Lunchtime session, about 1.5 hrs at Redpoint Worcester. Went for volume with a focus on flashing/onsighting. Hot and sweaty session.
T. Max hangs session in the shed - reasonable performance. Finished with working on core/front levers.
F.
S.
S.

monkoffunk · Jun 24, 2024

Re: Power Club 757 17 - 23 June 2024

M - Nothing.
T - Nothing. DOMS from climbing! More conditioned to gym stuff currently.

W - Run at sunset along sea front and cliff top. Pink and orange sunset, moon over the water, narrow cloud bank stretching to Swanage, bats and unseasonably pleasant temps. 6k in about 40 mins with a few zig zags thrown in. Good times. Yoga after.

T - Attempt to start on fingers again, as I need to do something more climbing specific. I’ve let myself fall out of the habit this month. Very creaky, didn’t do what I planned, but got warmed up and recruited.

F - Repeaters 7 on 3 off 6 times 3 sets over course the day.

S - Yoga.

S - Morning run, 5.5k. Sunshine just enough of a motivator to get me out of bed after a few glasses of wine last night.
Evening - sub max hangs, 2 sets. Repeaters 1 sets.

Ticking over week. I can’t wait to move house so I can build a board. Think that will be somewhat revolutionary.

Duma · Jun 24, 2024