Power Club 757 10th - 16th June 2024

[Fiend]

Next week STG: blah blah blah - very blah.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - no and feel miles away. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - keep trying but demoralising. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - mixed, gym x 1 - no, elbow rehab x 2 - no but that's okay, shoulder rehab x 3 - x3 but set back via cleaning, stretching x 3 - x1, not enough.


M - 1.5 hours walking. ~25m of Easy Trad.

T - 45 mins walking. 1 x 6C.

W - 1 x 6C, 1 x 6C+, attempted 1 x 6C/+

T - Rest

F - Active rest. 1.5 hours fern removal. So many midges I felt a bit sick. Shoulder very sore afterwards. Light shoulder rehab.

S - Indoor bouldering @ Onyx. 6 x V2-4, 8 x V3-5, 8 x V4-6 (7 flash, 1 x 2nd go, also attempted 2 more). 6 x V5-7 (2 flash, 2 x 2nd go, 2 worked, also attempted 6 more, a few could be theoretically possible with liposuction). Okay session. Foul mood on drive up about lack of suitable climbing partners, but got on with some cranking. Problems all looked very easy, until I actually got on them, and then they weren't. Perked up a bit when I realised that the singular grades were an illusion and they're broad grade bands like everywhere else. Shoulder sore but much better than after fern removal. Shoulder rehab. Stretching.

S - Active rest. Photoshoot at Pinfold Quarry. Led a nice HVS, attempted a sandbag E2 5b/6a. Got some nice shots, didn't get fatigued, booped a cow's snoot on the way out. Shoulder rehab.


Hmmm. Still tired after last Friday's tree clearance - but I think I've got over it. Still demoralised by my lack of trad season - and I really need to regain focus on that. But at least body still mostly functioning, despite weight - only the quarry cleaning was really bad for the shoulder and I'm keeping that in check.


Next week STG: Trad.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 3, stretching x 3.

 

[Duma]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

Thank Fiend.

M - 12 hr shift. Eve, run, 5k, hilly, trail,30 min. Love the meadows in the evening sun.
T - eve, TCA, 120 min. New set on the front so mostly steep stuff, good for me, but not my ego! Whites, blacks and blues (tbh hardly tried the blues). 8 problems, tried 6, flashed three, got one after a few attempts, lots of tries on another and managed in overlapping halves but too knackered to send. Then upstairs for the comp wall reset from last week that I hadn't tried yet. Fun slab comp weirdness. 12 problems 6A -7C, tried 5, did 4, close to the other but split under nail.
W - eve TCA, 60 min. Whites and blacks on gym boulder. 6 problems, flashed 3, felt like tape on finger was holding me back a bit. Half arsed session, then ran out of time.
T - eve, run, 5k, flat, pavement, 23 min. Went a bit harder, felt pretty rubbish but happy with time.
F - aft, TCA, 120 min. Back on the gym boulder upstairs, did the three that got away on Weds, then opened account on the 2 blues, decent progress but moves still to do on both. Finally back on comp wall, turns out I wasn't that close to the one on Tues, progress but ran out of beans for the tick.
S -
S - Eve, Cheddar, Remnant. Actually mostly belaying at Lion Rock, but few more goes on Bristol Weed. Matched high point 3 times, redid middle and top sections in case I ever get through move 10. Decent session but frustrating how few goes I get before skin/pain from pencil sharpener hold (move 9&10) stops play. Boy racer crashed which was gratifying. Cunts.

72 kg.

 

[csl]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

Goals: get out - do something on Spacehunter buttress before the ban, or some long trad E4+. Didn't manage to get out this week - was a bit hectic with family sickness

Mon: The Reach - took some work frustration out. 6c, 7a, 7b, 7b fell at top, 7c dogged, 7b fell at top, 7a+, 7a. 15 mins arcing.
Tue - Thursday: nothing, daughter sick off nursery, work busy.
Friday - Scapular Pulls, 1 arm hangs, bouldering (a bit lacklustre)
Saturday - Sunday: Sick, Flu/Covid/Cold like thing. Tiny bit of stretching on Sunday.

This week: Rollover from last week, I have Friday free, weather looks great so hopefully get out - either Spacehunter Buttress (any takers?) or single pitch trad.

 

[csl]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

pain from pencil sharpener hold (move 9&10) stops play.

Is this as horrible as it sounds? I'm imagining a small conical mono you have to stick your finger into like its a pencil but maybe I'm way off

 

[Duma]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

Pretty nasty but maybe not as bad as what you're imagining. It's a tiny vertical pocket, the outer edge forms a sharp edge pointing straight up. You have to front 2 crimp really hard on that, and it ruins your index finger. Taping doesn't work as it makes the lower moves harder, and I can't catch the next hold with tape on. I now tape the pocket itself, which saves skin a bit, but doesn't help with pain/bruising. The sequence is cool, but that hold does lessen the enjoyment somewhat...

(Not free until mid/late afternoon on Fri, and probably already booked up I'm afraid)

 

[mr chaz]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

Power Club:

M.
T. Ippikins Rock after work to finish off Fielding the Lip 7B, after trying it a few weeks ago. Its a linkup and very much of local interest only, but I quite enjoyed working this out and doing it. A few beta tweaks and a better heel unlocked it for me. Can't really offer an opinion on grade as I'm pretty out of touch.
W.
T.
F - S. Parents over from France, so very little.

 

[Fiend]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

Pretty nasty but maybe not as bad as what you're imagining. It's a tiny vertical pocket, the outer edge forms a sharp edge pointing straight up. You have to front 2 crimp really hard on that, and it ruins your index finger. Taping doesn't work as it makes the lower moves harder, and I can't catch the next hold with tape on. I now tape the pocket itself, which saves skin a bit, but doesn't help with pain/bruising. The sequence is cool, but that hold does lessen the enjoyment somewhat...

Sounds like a particularly minging goutte d'eau!

Also good tick on a crashing boy racer :yes:

 

[SA Chris]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

M - no run, school meeting. Board session later, felt OK
T - nowt
W - Lunch Run - hills - 7km / 175m
T - Trails and tings Lunch Run - 7.25km
T - nowt
F - nowt. Was going to get out but work and weather conspired.
S - Run on Aberdeen seacliffs in morning while car in tyre place. 7.3 km, lovely run, stopped to reminice at old crags like Souter Head. All deserted and no chalk to be seen in spite of glorious weather. Indoor wall session with Kyle in a afternoon while it tipped down.
S - ambitions to surf early doors dampened by more rain and dismal looking waves on webcam. Went back to bed. Replaced door in afternoon,. Fun.

 

[oldfella]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

A good week. Plenty of time on rock. unk:


Monday -
Fingerboard at home
Four 10s hangs @ 84.4kg, then two 10s hangs @ 89.3kg.

Tuesday
After work session with Jackie at Stoney, Garage Buttress
Jack wanted to climb a 7a called Up Yours. And extension of a 6c Can’t Stop Now. I decided to try that. Warmed up on the 6c, Warm up/working go. Then Easy Redpoint. Jack did the same for his.
He tried another route but then it got too midgey. Bailed. Must do more after work sessions on rock.

Wednesday
Rest day fingers tired. Hard session Sunday at Peter Dale, Monday fingerboard, & then last night.

Thursday
Fingerboard session at home
6x 10s hangs 18mm edges total weight 85kg
3 sets body weight repeaters 7:3 with 1 min rests

Friday
Rest day

Saturday
Afternoon session at Embankment- Cheedale. It was pouring rain on the drive out. Met Ryan at the car park and then walked in.

The Embankment was dry. Went up the 6b and then put the draws in A man who fell to Earth. 6c+ in the way down. Had a working go, the Redpointed it next go. Felt easy than expected.
I had one session on this some time back, put it on my wish list. Wanted to get back but never managed to. So glad to get this done and I really enjoyed this route.


Tried Prawnography, couldn’t work it out. Felt like a hold had gone missing. Not that great a climb.

Tried Bream in Black 7a+ on a top rope. One move I couldn’t do. Reaching into the big jug at 2 or 3 bolt.
Managed to do the rest. Maybe go back to it.

So glad we decided to risk it and get outside , inspite of the pouring rain and shit forecast. Great day.


Sunday
Rest day.

 

[cheque]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

Tried Bream in Black 7a+ on a top rope. One move I couldn’t do. Reaching into the big jug at 2 or 3 bolt.

I used a flat right-hand undercut for this.

 

[stone]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

So glad we decided to risk it and get outside , inspite of the pouring rain and shit forecast. Great day.

I totally randomly met Ryan yesterday and climbed with him and he said what a great day he'd had with you on Saturday!

 

[oldfella]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

So glad we decided to risk it and get outside , inspite of the pouring rain and shit forecast. Great day.

I totally randomly met Ryan yesterday and climbed with him and he said what a great day he'd had with you on Saturday!

That’s made my day reading that. :dance1:
Enabling a great climbing session for someone is great feedback.

 

[Nibile]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

Power Club

Mon - shoulders, pull ups, abs.
Tue - PM DL 531 week 10. Felt tired from Monday's session, schoolboy error again. Ground through like a mofo. High pulls.
Wed - tired! Bentover rows, high pulls, pull ups.
Thu - tired. GM with pause. RDL. Abs.
Fri - AM as usual; PM loaded carries.
Sat - boxing bag, tired.
Sun - 4x AM session, push ups, back work. Tired.

 

[monkoffunk]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

M - Yoga
T - Yoga
W - Yoga

T - Gym. Deadlifts. Tried up to 130kg this time. Two reps. Felt hard, close to maximal. I have still yet to find the weight I fail on but this feels close to the limit. Good place to benchmark progression. PT help with form incredibly useful, now strength feels like limiting factor.

F - Gym. Weighted pull ups up to 30kg. I’m still not back up to my all time best on this, but feeling pretty useful. Longer session this time, variety of extra pull and push things. Good session. Maybe not as useful as climbing would be, but better than the alternative. Long work day after.

S - Long work day.

S - Long work day. Portland after for quick evening/night hit. Started on Bordo Della Terra boulder, did The Cutting Room, hard 6C+, as an intermediate tick, but used up my skin quota on this pretty effectively. That’s another problem with not climbing! Feel like Bordo should go reasonably easily at some future date. Few plays on Anasazi Lost. I’ve done an easier version of this a few years back with illegal non lip holds. By midnight not feeling hugely psyched to continue so headed back to Bournemouth to sleep.

 

[Fultonius]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

Ups and Downs all round this week for most I see - just got to keep on keeping on sometimes!

I've had another very low volume week, but got out on the rock twice.

Mon:nowt
Tues: Dumby to get reacquainted with Endurance. Well into the double digits of sessions on this now. Initially it felt hard, with some moves that used to feel solid taking a bit of working out. Spent ages flailing at the crux only to realise I was using a shit sequence, my left hand needed to bump to a piece of shit non hold that's actually useful. In the end I figured out all the moves again, and had a couple of short links. Felt a bit stronger in the shoulders on the crux, and tweaked some slight beta on the upper crux where I fell on my best rp. Between this and sufference I must have done that move 100 times, to find new beta now :lol:

Weds. Nowt - Friday, nowt. Need to get better at sneaking in some form of exercise. (not counting 30 mins of cycling round Glasgow etc.). Work annual gathering in Durham on the Thursday , boozy.
Sat: Tunnel Wall on an iffy forecast. Getting reacquainted with Railway Children. Love that route, still slightly annoyed I've climbed through all the hard climbing on session 2, only to power out on good holds and fell off in despair.
Good session despite slightly humid conditions. One proper RP through the rest, but came off at the hard move in the traverse before the crux. Plenty of refinement opportunities!
Sun: Day 1 of Keto. Experiment to drop 4kg and not tank my fragile metabolism and mental psyche.

 

[duncan]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

Late to the party...

M - Fingerboard pick-ups left hand benchmarking. 46kg full crimp which is a PB. Shoulders, elbows, wrist conditioning.

T - Westway very easy autobelay xlots to ease the elbow back in.

W - Hip flexibility

T - Westway easy autobelay 6-7 mins on / 6-7 mins off x lots.

F - Shoulders conditioning

S - Drove up to N Wales. Hip flexibility.

S - Showery morning so headed to Craig Y Forwen. A new crag to climb at for me, although I have vague memories of looking up at a soaking wet Mojo with POD, Keith Sharpholds and Max ‘long, hard and free’ Jones in the ‘summer’ of 1980 whilst on a fruitless search for dry rock. Max retired from climbing and became a mountain biking pro. shortly after! Did Duchess Direct (E1 in the proper guide) and Sangfroid (HVS; apparently still graded by 1980 standards, so about Pembroke E2). Both very good and Sangfroid Direct looks even better and is apparently no harder (??) according to a lad I had last met at El Chorro in 1994. Good social scenes.

M - Also showery so bailed from Clogwyn Y Bustach to Tremadog, first time here since about 1981. The Environmental Agent was keen I try The Plum, one I hadn’t done in my summer living in the barn. Too easy to bother leading but a little too spicy to solo? I muttered something about warm-ups but got on it and it is great technical climbing. Unfortunately I somehow twatted my left middle finger on this and that was that for the trip.


1980 revival weekend, Talking Heads on the car stereo. Good to see Tremadog still quite popular for all the same reasons as when I was last there. The cafe was deserted, the greenery and midges more prevalent, but the climbing remains excellent and technically testing.

Finger appears to be a medial collateral ligament sprain, likely from overgripping a tweaky little flake at the start of the route that is completely unnecessary if you find the correct holds. Lack of warm-up leading to nervousness and mis-reading the sequence will do that. Very unfortunately I have had to bail from what was likely to be a great trip to Scotland later this week. I have a trip to Pembroke in just over a week’s time. MIght be able to get some easy stuff done buddy taping the finger but we shall see.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGsHLKyZ8H8

 

[cheque]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

The cafe was deserted

The problem with that place seems to be that the owners bought a cafe that’s perfectly located for climbers and bikers and have put all their efforts into aiming it at neither.

 

[duncan]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

The cafe was deserted

The problem with that place seems to be that the owners bought a cafe that’s perfectly located for climbers and bikers and have put all their efforts into aiming it at neither.

My local guide suggested the owners thought they would cater for LDN CLIMBRs. I didn't check the menu for wonky tomato and first press Sicilian olive oil bruschetta (12) so no idea if there is any truth in this, or just the tendency for folk from outside the M25 to blame London for any Bad Things.

It was a bit sad to see, I wonder how Eric feels?

Also, the ad hoc verge parking seemed like it might become an issue at some point sooner rather than later.

 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

Dog ate my homework... club

M: AW with GF - Did 2 warmup routes then she bailed as had had a shite day at work - was driving so relocated to the Sheaf Bloc - Did a new problem on the LH arete and managed the traverse crux twice...
T: Nowt
W: Bouldering @ Burbage S - Mates coerced me into going out on grit in summer... Was actually pretty nice, zero midges and nice temps... Did the standard easy curcuit.
T: Nowt
F: Drove t'Lakes... Dubious forecast but meeting some mates who don't get out much so planned to do some easy mountain routes that wouldn't be too bad in showers...
S: Yomped up Bowfell to do the Classic Rock tick with a couple of mates and about halfway up the heavens opened - Friday's forecast for showers had (unbeknown to us) changed to biblical rainstorm and Bowfell Butress was more like Bowfell Waterfall - Seriously still considered doing it but after 20mins deliberating we were all so cold and soggy we decided to sack it off and go yomping... Went up Bowfell, Crinkle Craggs and back round under Pike of Blisco - Good day out!
S: Another forecast change and headed up to Gimmer to do Slab and Bracket before the rain came in (or in the rain depending on which forecast you looked at) - Lovely easy climbing and much hilarity climbing as a 3... Made it back to the pub just as the heavens opened... Quality biffing!

Not much training but good to get out in the hills and for the legs and hips to hold up - Seriously considering doing something stupid like the Lakes Classic Rock round now (just gotta convince Energizer Bunny).... Christ!

 

[Fiend]

Re: Power Club 756 10th - 16th June 2024

My local guide suggested the owners thought they would cater for LDN CLIMBRs. I didn't check the menu for wonky tomato and first press Sicilian olive oil bruschetta (12) so no idea if there is any truth in this, or just the tendency for folk from outside the M25 to blame London for any Bad Things.

That "(12)" really has me laughing, well played.