Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

[Duma]

M - 12 hr shift
T - eve, Cheddar, Lion Rock. Opened account on Lions Pride 8a, shares the finish of Lion Sleeps Tonight so hoping to take advantage of having that fresh in the memory. First go warming up getting clips in, only went as far as the Shadow Walker undercuts. More pumpy but easier moves than LST. Second go got through to undercuts but struggled to recover. Eventually got enough back to push on to the arête but quickly powered out before the final clip. Third go a shambles, knobbed the middle sequence horribly and had to fight really hard just to make the undercuts. Got something back and managed to reach the arête but dropped it a couple of moves earlier than previous go.
W - woke feeling really hungover, after two pints! Maybe dehydration? Eve TCA, 120 min. Mostly new stuff, mostly slabby or vert. 12 problems 6B to 7B ish. Did 10, 3 flash, should have flashed a couple more, but none of them took too long. Also pleased to make progress on a black in the roof, got round the lip for the first time but knackered by then and couldn't do the easier finishing moves.
T - Feeling pretty broken but lovely day and Adam was keen to get out. Cheddar, Lion Rock. Really hot but the shade gradually came round and breeze kept it bearable. Rock Junky 7a+ to warm up, took a couple of goes and a bit rubbish. Then dogged up LST to get clips in and show Adam some beta. Finally a bit cooler so got on Lions Pride, refined a few things up to the undercuts and worked out a bit of a knee bar to improve the rest, not by as much as hoped though. Second go went well, pretty smooth to the undercuts, didn't recover very well but got to the arête and made it a couple of moves further than Tuesday, not quite into position to clip the last bolt though. Third go tank was already empty, fell going to the peg. Good day despite not having many beans, with lower section dialled and a new high point. Adam got LST 2nd go too, impressive how much margin he seemed to have on the moves.
F - lunch, run, 7k hilly trail. Didn't time it but hot and slow. Stoke park looking lush in the sunshine though.
S - am Perch Quarry, newish venue for easy sport on the way to Cheddar. First time for me, nice spot to enjoy the sunshine and warm up, 6 routes: More to Share 6a (good), Here Comes The Son 6a (okay), Jolly Roger 6a (okay), Tall Dark and Gruesome 6a+ (lovely), Put Away Those Fiery Biscuits 6c (good), A Lady From Ireland With Flame Red Hair 7a+ (okay). All flashed. Then on to Cheddar, the plan was to get back on Lions Pride but there was already 3 people on LST/Circus Circus so we settled for a little traveled but pleasantly punchy 7a+ further up the gorge, Teenage Riot. 3rd go and a tough little boulder crux.
S - parenting

71.5 kg.

 

[duncan]

Thanks Duma, Adam is quite strong isn't he?

M - Fingerboard pickups, left only, to 38kg. R elbow rehab. exercises. Leg conditioning: box-steps, heel raises, single-leg squats. Hip flexibility: prone frog stretch, standing pancake stretch, sumo squats.

T - Fairlop: concrete bouldering Ft3+/Ft4 x ~10. Walked ~12km.

W - Westway ~6 routes to 6a. Partner brought her Ohm so no practice falls (I can take a hint!).

T - Swam in the murk for ~10 minutes at 14C. First time in 2024, ‘bracing’ is putting it mildly. Fingerboard pickups, left only, to 36kg. Under-rested and probably not a great idea to do these on the same day as cold water swimming.

F - Westway with csl. 25 practice falls from above bolts, around 100 so far this year. Led equivalent of ~8 routes to 6a.

S - Shoulder/elbow conditioning: reverse curls, handstands, side planks. Hip flexibility, as above.

S - Fingerboard pickups, left only, to 42kg. Hip flexibility.

Elbow a bit better for some gentle climbing/swimming.

Planning to do more of the same the coming week. I’ll be down in Weston on Tuesday afternoon/evening to Thursday if anyone needs their rope holding or would like to do some trad. punting.

 

[Mostly_Inanimate_Beans]

Not joined in on this before as I write it all down anyway, but thought it might generate a vague sense of accounability to actually take rest days (it probably won't).

M - Roche, did 6mil Stretch quite quickly then preceded to sweat off Faith Left for the rest of the session. Midged to death. Individual finger pulls as warm up
T - Foundry, Wave: worked a few L5s, sent nowt, individual finger pulls, prone military press [email protected], 2x5@5kg, Pancake fold 3x10@10kg. Stretching
W - Foundry, Board: managed a (soft) 7C. Pancake fold 3x10@10kg. Tried deadlifting as haven't done any in about a year, 3x3@120kg. Seated external rotation [email protected], prone military press 3x5@5kg, Arnold press [email protected]. Felt a bit rough deadlifting in a calorie deficit. Stretching
T - Went and Soloed Chocolate Blancmange Gully at Horseshoe. Name says it all really, felt a little spicy. Stretching
F - Anston, Flashed Beta Blocker, did moves on reservation blocker into the start of beta blocker first go but got stuck in heel/toe. Tweaked something in left wrist subsequent go which made pulling on the start of beta blocker feel horrid so sacked it off and sat getting midged. Individual finger pulls as warm up. Later wandered up to Mother Cap to watch northern lights and got sod all sleep as a result.
S - Tideswell, tried E.T Bone Home but couldn't figure out the top move. Bruised achilles on left heel. A few pulls on Pedal To The Nettle but feeling absolutely battered by this point. Queue further midging AND mosqutitoed to death. Individual finger pulls as warm up.
S - Stretching
Overall a fine week to be a bloodsucking insect :furious:

 

[oldfella]

Cheers Duma,

Monday -

2 hours of family tennis in the morning.
Walked around Peter Dale in the Peak, fancy a couple days out there this summer.
Evening Finger board on 18mm edges
6x 10s hangs.
3 hangs at a total weight 78kg.
Hangs 4 & 5 = 82.8kg
last hang total weight = 85.6kg
body weight 80.3kg
Effort level 7/10.
Felt good. Strength increasing.

Tuesday
Depot after work. First boulder session since pre operation in February. Steady session. Did 4 blacks and 3 reds.
Finished with weights session. Bench press, tricep extension and pistol squats with 4kg kettle bell.

Wednesday
Rest

Thursday
Fingerboard on 18mm edge. Half crimp
Six 10sec hangs. Total weight 77.6kg. Felt good. 6/10 effort level
40min peloton Tabata ride

Friday
Rest
Saturday
Rest day
Sunday
Garden work. 40min Peloton ride in the evening

 

[Duma]

Adam is quite strong isn't he?
...
I’ll be down in Weston on Tuesday afternoon/evening to Thursday if anyone needs their rope holding or would like to do some trad. punting.

He is!
Sadly I'm on nights next week so will be sleeping while you're around.

thought it might generate a vague sense of accounability

That's my thought process too, though I wouldn't write it down otherwise so that's probably a bigger benefit for me.

 

[Fultonius]

Kinda quiet week for me.

Monday - Wednesday pretty much nothing, been a bit run down and tired recently so just had a chill.
Thursday, - myopics buttress with Andy. Good session getting reaquinted with The Vibes f7c. One working go, managed most of the moves. 2 semi half arsed RPs, but powered out at the crux. Bailed and had a go on Andy's route, precious 7b+, managed all moves but was pretty trashed as they're both pretty bouldery. Keen to get back even if 7c is now a multi trip affair...

Saturday - The Big Top, E1 on Aonach Dubh with B. He was keen to get his trad head back on, but got spooked by the exposure so I did all 4 pitches, great fun!
Sunday. Minging hot TCA sesh. Dropped one white on the flash and got it 2nd go (7A apparently..) one green flags and repeated a few other 6c/7a things. Did some PE work on the 50 board.

 

[Adam Lincoln]

Planning to do more of the same the coming week. I’ll be down in Weston on Tuesday afternoon/evening to Thursday if anyone needs their rope holding or would like to do some trad. punting.

Bad timing Duncan I am back up North

 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - shoulder static holds, hell on earth, Ioved it. Bentover rows, high pulls.
Tue - AM as usual; PM board climbing, did the problem I'd set the previous session, then set and climbed another one. Board fitness increased by 100%, this inevitably means that problems' difficulty must have decreased by 100%, because the glass is always, always half empty. Back work.
Wed - DL 531 week 4. Training max 138 kg. TRX.
Thu - AM as usual; PM shoulder static holds heavy.
Fri - AM as usual; PM GM 5x5 110kg with pause, bentover rows.
Sat - AM as usual.
Su - regular weights.

 

[Duma]

Tue - AM as usual.
...Board fitness increased by 100%, this inevitably means that problems' difficulty must have decreased by 100%, because the glass is always, always half empty.

Hah!

Remind me, what's the usual AM routine? Still committed to the no rest days protocol?

 

[Nibile]

Tue - AM as usual.
...Board fitness increased by 100%, this inevitably means that problems' difficulty must have decreased by 100%, because the glass is always, always half empty.

Hah!

Remind me, what's the usual AM routine? Still committed to the no rest days protocol?

Hey Duma!
Yes, more or less I'm still trying to do something every day, it's as much a mental effort as it is a way to factor in some extra work, in the long run the small micro sessions and the consequent caloric consumption (albeit little), are something.
The usual AM session consists of a set of goblet squat and press, a set of dumbbells thruster and a set of pull ups, more or less back to back. Some days I go double, if I plan to just fingerboard in the evening (but I must admit that I almost never just fingerboard in the evening...). When I started I was also doing a set of ab-wheel, but I found that it wasn't very good for my posture (I have posterior pelvic tilt).
Cheers!

 

[Duncan Disorderly]

What's the fucking point... Club

M: Paddling in't lakes - fun.
T: Sheaf bloc - Tried hard, did all traverse moves, now feels only marginally impossible...
W: Matterhorn Ridge with the GF - Brilliant post work adventure climbing - loose, easy and bugger all decent gear... Mmmmm :smirk:
T: Shoulder kicked off! Not happy at all.
F: Shoulder and hip kicking off - managed to get a last minute quack appointment - hip pain is almost unbearable! Like someone is sticking a red hot poker into my groin!
S: Shoulder seems back to normal - hip felt like murder! Sat in a hot tub under the stars and drank cocktails...
S: Hungover.

All seems to have gone south recently - no idea what the issue with the hip is, always been tight but seems to have stepped up a gear with random bouts of agonizing pain. Thankfully ROM isn't affected and standing up actually helps... Got a physio appt now so am going to push for a scan... All this is going to be after Verdon next week though so I've got a full bag of Ibuprofen and Naproxen and will dose meself up before abbing into owt and hope for the best... Arse! :'(

 

[monkoffunk]

M - Yoga
T - Yoga
W - Yoga
T - 5k run. Been a little lax about keeping this regular. First in just under a month. Felt so good in evening after.
F - Elbow physio exercises. Yoga.
S - Nothing.
S - Yoga

Basically a rest week. Not sure when I’ll get chance to get out again, but hopefully do some more training this week.

 

[Duma]

Hope the hip eases up DD!

 

[alba]

I'm going to start journalling so I can actually remember what I did climbing wise lol.

Not going to go into specific days but I seem to be making progress and the moonboard v3/4 seems doable now which is cool. Will provide a more detailed daily breakdown for next week ha.

Mixing the climbing with some swimming. Trying not to climb consecutive days to avoid injury as am only about 3 or 4 months climbing after a 15 year break.

Losing weight will help, am about 10 stone 8 and 5ft 3 and my goal is to get down to 10 stone or even 9.5 stone but I don't want to be too obsessive about it like when I was younger.

 

[SA Chris]

Motivation not great for much right now.

M - 12.5km run, big hill and slow pace. Usual pull - ups and push ups.
T - nowt apart from usual pull - ups and push ups.
W - nowt apart from usual pull - ups and push ups.
T - nowt apart from usual pull - ups and push ups.
F - lunch time bike ride - about 25km. Went on bike as i was going to run in the evening, but didn't. Up until about 2 am photographing aurora.
S - up too early to take son to DoE hike. Headed to Fulmar Wall for first trad climbing in years. Beautiful weather, and no nesting birds at base for a change. 2nded S and HS, led 2 x VS I had actually not done before. Usual faff making things fit, but good to get out.
S - knacked. Fetched tired son from DoE hike.