Next week STG: Get back on track with training and rehab, and keep going with stretching
- mostly apart from stretching. Take extra care with new and exciting GE flare-up
- mostly, a bit tender but has coped with harder climbing.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes
- made some mistakes with thumb skin management. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad
- one harder problem. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners
- decent overall due to the Lancs lot. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out
- no but sabotaged by grumpy OAP. Look after injuries
- not sure, achey today, gym x 1
- no, elbow rehab x 2
- yes, 2, shoulder rehab x 2
- yes, 2, stretching x 3
- 2, should have done more.
M - Indoor routes @ Boardroom. The bollox hieroglyphic gibberish pseudo-grades haven't spread onto their routes yet, so did F6a+, 2 x F6b, F6b+, 2 x F6c, 2 x F6c+, 2 x F7a (and attempted a F7a+ disguised as F6c+). A few practise falls earlier on but my climbing partner was a grumpy OAP who changed their mind after agreeing to my specific request of falling practise, and rather than risk a full session sulk, I sacked them off. Climbing was fun. Elbow a bit tender warming up but fine by a couple of routes in. Elbow rehab, shoulder rehab, full stretching session - pleased to do all that.
T - Active rest. 2 hours cleaning and brushing and stuff. Kept it fairly steady so not too fatiguing. New GE had occasional twinge on a couple of movements but otherwise fine. Shoulders tired after previous day.
W - Rest (unplanned - shite motivation). Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab.
T - Board climbing @ Depot 30°. Had to barge in between Adam Lincoln and Nige who should have been sticking to a proper big boys' board. 4 x easy warm-ups, 4 x medium warm-ups, 2 x harder warm-ups. 1 x repeating a harder problem for the first time since 2022. 2 x a new semi-hard problem I set last week. A few attempts on other things. Skin pulp was crushed well before muscle fatigue. New GE a bit tender warming up but fine on medium / harder stuff. Generally quite a fun, if brief, session - not any heavier/weaker than usual. Stretching session listening to an excellent hardcore techno set from DJ AniMe in the evening.
F - Thumb flapper day. Attempted 6C+. Quite close but no link. Wore away a flapper in my thumb from a sharp pinch.
S - Finger flapper day. 1:20 hours walking total. 6C (flash), 6C (3rd go), tried a 7A - did almost all the individual moves but no chance of a link. Do think it might be possible for me with good rest before, perfect leather skin, colder crisper conditions, and the whole day methodically focusing on it. 2:30 hours drive and 20 mins walk from home tho. Tore a small flapper in my finger from coarse holds.
S - Climbing day. 6C first ascent, 6B+ 3rd ascent, 6C (3 goes), 7A (3 hours). Shoulders battered after the last one. One more finger flapper from catching a sharp flake. Elbows a bit tender but okay in the circumstances. Shoulders tired and achey.
Interesting week. Mostly got back on track with training, if you count trying hard at the weekend. Trying hard isn't enough to get me up boulder problems tho :
Did okay with rehab, not so okay with stretching and once again need to try harder with that.
Next week STG: STRETCHING. Take a rest day. Shoulder mobility. Indoor steady volume session.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.
