Welcome to the hardy power clubbers. I've not been out much all week, how are things at the moment: cold and crisp or cold and dank*?
M - Westway, bouldering to V2/3. Some steep problems which I wasn’t flashing: first trying hard of the year. Shoulder/elbow conditioning: lock-offs, handstands, side planks. Walked 7km, ~60 mins briskly. Left foot hurt a bit in the evening.
T - Shoulder/elbow conditioning. Foot sore.
W - Fingerboard pick-ups: 18mm edge, varied grips, 31kg. Fingerboard hangs 20 and 15mm edge, full crimp. Moderate effort overall. Foot very sore. Went to A+E, chose mid afternoon hoping it would be quieter. First visit for a minor injury in a few years and it felt like the service was really creaking. After a very long wait I was X-Rayed which thankfully showed no fracture.
T - Hip/knee conditioning and flexibility: frog squats, single leg squats, active hip flexion and abduction (side kicks). Shoulder/elbow conditioning: lock-offs, handstands, side planks. Foot sore.
F - Westway. Foot not fit for bouldering so did a power-endurance session on the autobelay: 6x 6a+/6b with relatively short rests. Aiming for 8x, but foot was getting worse. Shoulder conditioning. Guinea pigging for the Biobank research project**.
S - Hip/knee conditioning and flexibility; shoulder/elbow/wrist conditioning.
S - Shoulder/elbow/wrist conditioning and some hip stretches.
Foot tweak felt like I had a lump in my foot, further confirmation pain is not a reliable guide. Assuming it was due to bouldering, I was being pretty careful, no drops or falls more than one metre. It unfortunately means more roped climbing than bouldering for now, but more hip flexibility work than walking which is no bad thing. In the longer term, my leg conditioning needs to be more dynamic. Or I could just give up bouldering completely.
Plan: bouldering with a rope on. Outside if it's not freezing cold, which it probably will be.
*In the traditional sense
**Five hours of every test you can think of including brain, chest and abdomen MRIs, dexa and carotid US scans, and lots of questionnaires on my health, diet, and activity levels (“have you fallen recently?”). Not a health check but had they found anything potentially disastrous they’d let my GP know. I’m guessing hip arthritis wouldn’t trigger this but a silent aortic aneurysm would. An unofficial peek suggested my carotid arteries are in good shape and I have 14% body fat. The latter is about what I'd expect in mid-winter hibernation (when I'm theoretically borderline overweight, according to my BMI).
M - Westway, bouldering to V2/3. Some steep problems which I wasn’t flashing: first trying hard of the year. Shoulder/elbow conditioning: lock-offs, handstands, side planks. Walked 7km, ~60 mins briskly. Left foot hurt a bit in the evening.
T - Shoulder/elbow conditioning. Foot sore.
W - Fingerboard pick-ups: 18mm edge, varied grips, 31kg. Fingerboard hangs 20 and 15mm edge, full crimp. Moderate effort overall. Foot very sore. Went to A+E, chose mid afternoon hoping it would be quieter. First visit for a minor injury in a few years and it felt like the service was really creaking. After a very long wait I was X-Rayed which thankfully showed no fracture.
T - Hip/knee conditioning and flexibility: frog squats, single leg squats, active hip flexion and abduction (side kicks). Shoulder/elbow conditioning: lock-offs, handstands, side planks. Foot sore.
F - Westway. Foot not fit for bouldering so did a power-endurance session on the autobelay: 6x 6a+/6b with relatively short rests. Aiming for 8x, but foot was getting worse. Shoulder conditioning. Guinea pigging for the Biobank research project**.
S - Hip/knee conditioning and flexibility; shoulder/elbow/wrist conditioning.
S - Shoulder/elbow/wrist conditioning and some hip stretches.
Foot tweak felt like I had a lump in my foot, further confirmation pain is not a reliable guide. Assuming it was due to bouldering, I was being pretty careful, no drops or falls more than one metre. It unfortunately means more roped climbing than bouldering for now, but more hip flexibility work than walking which is no bad thing. In the longer term, my leg conditioning needs to be more dynamic. Or I could just give up bouldering completely.
Plan: bouldering with a rope on. Outside if it's not freezing cold, which it probably will be.
*In the traditional sense
**Five hours of every test you can think of including brain, chest and abdomen MRIs, dexa and carotid US scans, and lots of questionnaires on my health, diet, and activity levels (“have you fallen recently?”). Not a health check but had they found anything potentially disastrous they’d let my GP know. I’m guessing hip arthritis wouldn’t trigger this but a silent aortic aneurysm would. An unofficial peek suggested my carotid arteries are in good shape and I have 14% body fat. The latter is about what I'd expect in mid-winter hibernation (when I'm theoretically borderline overweight, according to my BMI).