Last week's STG: Make some plans for the autumn. 2. See 1. 3. See 1. Etc etc - maybe, possible rumblings of a plan. Get away from Peak/Lancs/Yorks if weather allows - not really. Try to rally support amongst the few partners who might be keen to get away - not really. Do something challenging on a rope outside - just once, and ideally do something inspiring on a rope or above a pad outside - just once and avoided another. Do one bouldering training session and one routes training session indoors - yes.
The usual: Elbow rehab x 2 - yes x 3, Shoulder rehab x 2 - yes x 3, stretching x 3 - yes, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - just indoors, deadhangs (if suitable) - yes x 2.
MTG - keep incrementally regaining capability, do regular increasingly large falling practise, try to stretch bi-weekly, keep rehabbing (and moderating training if needed) to avoid injury, try to rally support and inclusion amongst climbing partners.
LTG - regain physical capability for F7a o/s, F7b+-ish r/p, to be able to take into trad, try to regain some confidence in going further afield.
M - Rest. Not necessary, and tedious. Felt my body seizing up as usual. Finally forced myself to do elbow and shoulder rehab at 9:30pm with the help of some nu skool jungle.
T - Indoor routes @ Summit Up. F6b, F6b, F6b+, F6c, F7a, F7a+, F7a+, attempted F7a+ (very close) and F7b (not very close at all). Decent falls on almost all. Stretching session after. Mid-reset so choice a bit limited, could had squeezed in more F6c/7a if there had been new stuff. Felt pretty decent, nice session. Watched Godzilla due to UKB peer pressure.
W - Indoor bouldering @ The Depot. 27/31 Pinks, 18 flash, 6 2nd go, 2 3rd go, 1 worked, 4 DNF (one due to being cordoned off, the other 3 really should have been DNS to save myself the bother). The Pinks have now transmogrified from a V2-5 semi-normal circuit running parallel to the Reds, into a V3-6 semi-comp style circuit, overlapping the Reds, Purples, and Comp Wall. Which is fine but I wish I'd known that before trying to do the circuit as there's plenty of droppable weirdness and a bit of "I could spend the rest of my life trying to get this toe-catch lurch or hands off mantle to randomly work, or I could just go watch paint dry instead". Deadhangs on the minute: 5 x 10s @ 25mm, 5 x 10s @ 20mm, 5 x 7s @ 15mm. Skin and pulp fine but found them hard. Too aghast by Adam Lincoln's "bordering on cultural appropriation" tan to do stretching then, but did shoulder rehab and stretching at home.
T - A little bit of sport climbing. A couple of F6s and a flash of a stiff F7a that I had to try quite hard on (being not very warmed up). Pretty pleased. Situation wasn't suitable for falling practise. Shoulders started a bit sore and stuff after previous day but felt better after.
F - Active rest / idiocy training / re-hydration - 2 hours sapling and brambling clearing @ Lester Mill in the pissing rain. Reasonable exercise and I ended up with one tiny patch at the front of my underpants that stayed dry. Shoulders started quite stiff and sore from sleeping well and peacefully (of course) but better after cleaning. Elbow rehab and shoulder rehab.
S - Active rest - a bit of Easy Trad @ Troy Quarry. A couple of nice easy routes, but talked myself out of getting on a good challenging route and was cross all the way home. Also cross about the lack of honking geese.
S - Indoor bouldering @ The Depot. 6 Purples, 3 flash, 2 2nd go, 1 worked. Tried another 10 or so with maybe a distant chance of future success on a couple. The Purples have now transmogrified from a V5-7 circuit into a V5-or-7 circuit with nothing in between. Maybe the increased difficult of Pinks provides an overlap? Will be interested to see how the Red reset goes and if they keep that as a normal circuit or do something wacky with that too. Deadhangs on the minute: 5 x 10s @ 25mm, 5 x 10s @ 20mm, 8 x 10s @ 15mm - got extra psyched so did a bonus 3 on the last set. Maybe less fatigued due to doing so little on Purples. Elbow rehab and full stretching session.
Okay week. Feeling a bit more like a climber, but hampered by weather, and also being a massive fanny on Saturday. Indoor training and rehab etc volume has been good all round and body seems to be coping with the level (so now the plan is to NOT increase it, of course). Still need to try a lot harder to find people to do diverse climbing days and/or away trips with.
The usual STG: Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, deadhangs (if suitable), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.
Next week STG: Get a fixed plan for Autumn. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers. Outside aims depend on weather. Do a leading / falling session indoors. Maybe Depot Red if weather is poor after they reset them.
