Fiend
Whut
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2004
- Messages
- 13,893
Last week's STG: Touch base with several friends to try to maintain contact and be more involved with positive experiences together - no, delayed. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers - no, delayed. Make some plans for the autumn - no, tried a bit but no reply. Don't get carried away with Wiltonfest preparation - no. See if I can try hard again outside on a rope - no. The usual: Shoulder rehab x 3 - just once, stretching x 3 (increased) - just once, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - a tiny bit, finger edge pull-ups (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day) - yes.
MTG - keep incrementally regaining capability, do regular increasingly large falling practise, try to stretch bi-weekly, keep rehabbing (and moderating training if needed) to avoid injury, try to rally support and inclusion amongst climbing partners.
LTG - regain physical capability for F7a o/s, F7b+-ish r/p, to be able to take into trad, try to regain some confidence in going further afield.
M - Active rest. Easy routes at Indepence Quarry and a bit of walking. A few pleasant moves but not really progressive. Didn't feel right for falling practise due to old-fashioned partner. Low mood. Mild tingly nerve pain coming down from neck / shoulders.
T - Indoor bouldering @ Depot. 10 Blues to warm up. 2 (two) Purples (1 flash). Tried another 8-10 and ended up going quarry cleaning early because it was more appealing. One of the most frustrating bullshit Purple circuits I've ever encountered at the Depot, with almost no overlap with the prior Reds, and obviously set by an Orange-level climber who doesn't put footholds on because they can power through moves so far beneath them. Finger-edge pullups, 2 x 5 @ 25mm, 2 x 5 @ 20mm, 1 x 5, 1 x 4 @ 15mm, felt fine. Arm / shoulder fatigue - 1.5 hours scrubbing routes in Wilton. Shoulders a bit sore but mild tingly nerve pain gone.
W - Active rest / recruitment - tiny bit of outdoor bouldering. A bit of pleasant pulling but not really progressive. Could have done stretching and shoulder rehab but struggling with self-discipline. Vaguely angry mood.
T - Active rest / arm fatigue - 4 hours scrubbing routes in Wilton. Wanted to do some training too but have been getting some warning niggles so didn't. Vague niggle in left golfer's elbow which I'm wary of, then again I'm getting all sorts of mild but strange sensations down my left side: sensitive side of face, elbow niggle, tingly senitivity in fingers, sore calf on waking, tender left edge of foot. Maybe derived from neck nerve issues?? Maybe signs of incoming stroke??
F - Indoor bouldering @ Depot. 27/30 Pinks (24 flash, 2 2nd go due to not brushing holds, 1 parkour nonsense worked), 2 DNF (comedy bullshit Purple-level toe-hook bullshit, and guaranteed injury crux lunge with high feet to top of wall), 1 forgotten cos I'm senile. Okay. Finger edge pullups: 2 x 5 @ 25mm, 2 x 5 @ 20mm, 3 x 3 @ 15mm. Slightly harder than last time but warmer and more tired. Full shoulder rehab and full stretching. Shoulders not too bad. Generally angry mood.
S - Semi-active rest. Wiltonfest. Some walking, a lot of talking. People actually climbed the routes we'd spent dozens of hours cleaning. Tired but less angry mood.
S - Active rest. Easy sport @ Robin Proctors. F6a+. F6b, F6b+, fell off a F6c. Quite pissed off, so just belayed. Too sunny. Tired. Shoulders fine to start, right shoulder tweaky and impinged afterwards for no reason.
Fairly dismal week with the only things feeling at all beneficial were one Depot Pink circuit, 20 mins worth of finger edge pull-ups, and 2 small practise falls. But I got Wiltonfest out of the way and did beneficial promotion for the guidebook and hopefully crag maintenance. So hopefully just a temporary blip. More aches and pains than even usual which I will have to be careful with - going to swap out edge pull-ups for deadhangs for now.
Last week's STG: Touch base with several friends to try to maintain contact and be more involved with positive experiences together - actually do this. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers - actually do this. Make some plans for the autumn - actually do this. Look after my elbow. Look after my body and mind overall. Do a bit of training (e.g. mileage circuit) but avoid getting fatigued or injured. Do some East-facing sport if possible to avoid the stupid heatwave.
The usual:Elbow rehab x 2 (added), Shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, deadhangs (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day).
MTG - keep incrementally regaining capability, do regular increasingly large falling practise, try to stretch bi-weekly, keep rehabbing (and moderating training if needed) to avoid injury, try to rally support and inclusion amongst climbing partners.
LTG - regain physical capability for F7a o/s, F7b+-ish r/p, to be able to take into trad, try to regain some confidence in going further afield.
M - Active rest. Easy routes at Indepence Quarry and a bit of walking. A few pleasant moves but not really progressive. Didn't feel right for falling practise due to old-fashioned partner. Low mood. Mild tingly nerve pain coming down from neck / shoulders.
T - Indoor bouldering @ Depot. 10 Blues to warm up. 2 (two) Purples (1 flash). Tried another 8-10 and ended up going quarry cleaning early because it was more appealing. One of the most frustrating bullshit Purple circuits I've ever encountered at the Depot, with almost no overlap with the prior Reds, and obviously set by an Orange-level climber who doesn't put footholds on because they can power through moves so far beneath them. Finger-edge pullups, 2 x 5 @ 25mm, 2 x 5 @ 20mm, 1 x 5, 1 x 4 @ 15mm, felt fine. Arm / shoulder fatigue - 1.5 hours scrubbing routes in Wilton. Shoulders a bit sore but mild tingly nerve pain gone.
W - Active rest / recruitment - tiny bit of outdoor bouldering. A bit of pleasant pulling but not really progressive. Could have done stretching and shoulder rehab but struggling with self-discipline. Vaguely angry mood.
T - Active rest / arm fatigue - 4 hours scrubbing routes in Wilton. Wanted to do some training too but have been getting some warning niggles so didn't. Vague niggle in left golfer's elbow which I'm wary of, then again I'm getting all sorts of mild but strange sensations down my left side: sensitive side of face, elbow niggle, tingly senitivity in fingers, sore calf on waking, tender left edge of foot. Maybe derived from neck nerve issues?? Maybe signs of incoming stroke??
F - Indoor bouldering @ Depot. 27/30 Pinks (24 flash, 2 2nd go due to not brushing holds, 1 parkour nonsense worked), 2 DNF (comedy bullshit Purple-level toe-hook bullshit, and guaranteed injury crux lunge with high feet to top of wall), 1 forgotten cos I'm senile. Okay. Finger edge pullups: 2 x 5 @ 25mm, 2 x 5 @ 20mm, 3 x 3 @ 15mm. Slightly harder than last time but warmer and more tired. Full shoulder rehab and full stretching. Shoulders not too bad. Generally angry mood.
S - Semi-active rest. Wiltonfest. Some walking, a lot of talking. People actually climbed the routes we'd spent dozens of hours cleaning. Tired but less angry mood.
S - Active rest. Easy sport @ Robin Proctors. F6a+. F6b, F6b+, fell off a F6c. Quite pissed off, so just belayed. Too sunny. Tired. Shoulders fine to start, right shoulder tweaky and impinged afterwards for no reason.
Fairly dismal week with the only things feeling at all beneficial were one Depot Pink circuit, 20 mins worth of finger edge pull-ups, and 2 small practise falls. But I got Wiltonfest out of the way and did beneficial promotion for the guidebook and hopefully crag maintenance. So hopefully just a temporary blip. More aches and pains than even usual which I will have to be careful with - going to swap out edge pull-ups for deadhangs for now.
Last week's STG: Touch base with several friends to try to maintain contact and be more involved with positive experiences together - actually do this. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers - actually do this. Make some plans for the autumn - actually do this. Look after my elbow. Look after my body and mind overall. Do a bit of training (e.g. mileage circuit) but avoid getting fatigued or injured. Do some East-facing sport if possible to avoid the stupid heatwave.
The usual:Elbow rehab x 2 (added), Shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, deadhangs (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day).