Power Club 710 21-27 Aug 2023

[Simon Lee]

11.13

M. Home warm up. Tor. Warm with a good breeze. Quiet. Gave Ethan a few belays THFML once then swung off it second attempt. Cross thru at second attempt. Couple of unsuccessful goes on toe release section. 6 attempts to do throw and fell getting foot on pinch. 2 attempts at throw getting through to almost getting pinch on cross through. Next attempt got almost to same point but not crossing arm through as far. 3 more goes at throw then got through to kick but nothing left to try cross through. A session of two halves and was frustrating and demoralising to start with. Back was feeling it at the end and couldn’t face going to crag x.

W


T

F. Home warm up. Tor. Cooler and fresher with some air movement. Much better connies than Tuesday. Slight G&T induced headache. THFML x 3. Cross thru at first attempt. Felt good trying the toe hook release. Totally thought I was on for the link. 3 goes to do throw and fell off getting toe on pinch despite feeling good. Same story on 4th go. Got crimp again on 6th go but fingers collapsed on it. This hasn’t happened in ages. 2 goes from pocket and edge managing stab on second attempt. Disappointing. Another session of two halves but this time did worse in the second half.

S

S

Following the finger wilt on Friday decided not to do the usual weighted hangs and pull-ups session on Saturday.

Ben’s has been frustrating. Now had 7 dedicated sessions where I thought I’d climb through the crux section but somehow didn’t manage it.

Off to France on Friday. Current thought is once I get back with a bit more route fitness I’ll resume trying Cross N Angry then follow it by doing sets on the three hard moves on Bens as this approach worked well for getting solid on doing the throw move more statically and consistently. After C&A gets ticked or wet I’ll resume on Bens properly for a bit. Hopefully I’ll tick one or both by the end of the year with improving conditions and a bit of weight loss

 

[Fiend]

Last week's STG: Take less rest days- yes. Buy more therabands- yes. Touch base with several friends to try to maintain contact and be more involved with positive experiences together - kinda, inadvertantly. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers - no. Make some plans for the weekend - kinda. Make some plans for the autumn - no. Do just a bit of climbing / cleaning in Lancs- yes. Get another challenging circuit / boulder session in - yes. See if I can try hard again outside on a rope - no. Try to do some trad falling practise - accidentally by punting off an E2, or longer sport practise falls. The usual: Shoulder rehab x 3- yes, stretching x 2- yes, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out- yes, finger edge pull-ups (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day) -a bit.
MTG - keep incrementally regaining capability, do regular increasingly large falling practise, try to stretch bi-weekly, keep rehabbing (and moderating training if needed) to avoid injury, try to rally support and inclusion amongst climbing partners.
LTG - regain physical capability for F7a o/s, F7b+-ish r/p, to be able to take into trad, try to regain some confidence in going further afield.


M - Endurance circuits @ Depot. F6a, F6b, F6a+F6a, F6a+F6b, F6b+F6b, 2/3rds F6c, 1/3rd F7a, 2/3rds F6c, 1/3rd F7a (all new Depot circuit grades so completely fictious, the F6c was much harder than the F6c+s I was leading outside recently). Just plain GRIM, not much fun climbing and painful on all the finger joint skin, even with taping up. Finger edge pullups: 2 x 5 @ 25mm, 2 x 4 @ 20mm, 1 x 3 @ 15mm - hard due to sore skin dragging on the edges. Shoulder rehab and stretching session. Mental stoicism training from chatting to Serpico about fixed gear in Lancs quarries.

T - Active rest, photos / easy trad @ Wilton 3. Ended up doing an inadvertant "practise fall on trad" by actually falling off an "HVS 5a" corner onto a micro-cam (being upgraded to E2 5c *). Total shambles but at least I committed to it. Mental stoicism training from being heckled by Serpico whilst doing a prior route.

W - Indoor routes @ Awesome Walls. ~10 V3-4 (mostly flash) boulders to warm up. 3 x F6c/+. 2 x F7a attempts (both very close). Good practise falls on all. Felt quite decent. Shoulders stiff and tweaky. Shoulder mobility AM. Tummy a bit sore. Low-ish mood.

T - Outdoor sport. Brief session on short and sharp routes. F6b, F6b+, F6c, F6c/+, F6c+, attempted F6c+ with comedy bullshit grade. Okay. Did commit to moves fine. Not really suitable for falling practise. Shoulders stiff and tweaky. Shoulder mobility AM.

F - Indoor bouldering @ BUK. 8 x V3 (flash), 10 x V4 (9 flash), 8 x V5 (6 flash) and 3 x V6 (2 flash), and a few more attempts on some 5/6s (setting has changed / worsened with less straight up board style cranking so more knacky fluffable stuff). Big session, felt close to what my body would sensibly handle, so skipped finger edge pull-ups. Shoulder rehab and full stretching session. Mental stoicism training from chatting to Northern Yob and agreeing that climbing is dead, the wedge is thicker than a giant buttplug, Ken Woz Right, etc etc.

S - Active rest / arm fatigue @ Wilton 3. 3-4 hours cleaning and brushing. Not ideal but needs to be done before Wiltonfest. Shoulders stiff and fatigued but not much worse than usual.

S - Rest. Did shoulder rehab and full stretching whilst hanging out at the Depot. Bought a hoover and had a nap. Shoulders stiff and tweaky. Mental stoicism training from being aghast at AndyF's roof stamina in the Depot cave.


Okay week. Got the volume in to the point of having to ease off at the end - treading a very fine line to not overuse my body but I think I'm on the right side of that line. A bit frustrated by being torn between Lancs stuff and my own climbing stuff but that will cease in a week's time. A bit demoralised by lack of future climbing plans but hopefully I can get on the ball with that sooner rather than later.


Next week's STG: Touch base with several friends to try to maintain contact and be more involved with positive experiences together. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers. Make some plans for the autumn. Don't get carried away with Wiltonfest preparation. See if I can try hard again outside on a rope (or above a pad if needs be).
The usual: Shoulder rehab x 3, stretching x 3 (increased), falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, finger edge pull-ups (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day).

 

[Dingdong]

Lovely first week back after deload week, a few new exercises which I always enjoy when you’ve been doing the same thing for a while!

M:

- one arm engagements
- one arm iso
- 2 arm 10 second max hangs
- pulling French contrast training - this was incredible, on the non-weighted pull-ups I felt like a feather. Psyched to see how this goes by end of this block

T:

- went to Blackwell dale and did Paint it Black on my 4th redpoint of the day

- went depot after Blackwell and cleaned up on the yellows to practice technique - 10 boulders in total

- trx iyt

- Turkish get ups

- Extensor curls

W: rest

T:
- lees bottom, close on A6 and greenwood, hopefully they go in better connies

- board sesh max efforts

- max lifts 40kg

- bench press incline power

- Bench press incline max strength

- Shoulder press max strength

F:
- dangerous action man wrestling, went back to work this, hit and held the mono a number of times and went to hit the pinch but heel kept popping out

- linked boulders

- density lockoff iso 30 seconds pronated and supinated

- shoulder rotation PB, 9kg for 12 reps

- deltoid flys, 15kg for 6 reps

S: rest

S:
- yoga

- rack pulls

- Nordic curls

- Copenhagen planks

 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - double volume AM session. Loaded carries. 39°.
Tue - loaded carries. 39°.
Wed - light jog, hill sprints, stairs. 41°.
Thu - boxing bag. 39°.
Fri - light weights. Short on time. 41°.
Sat - double volume AM session. 39°.
Sun - double volume AM session. 39°. Will it ever end?

 

[duncan]

... French contrast training
... Turkish get ups
... Nordic curls
...Copenhagen planks

I need to up my exercise naming game! The Archway shoulder conditioning programme?

M - Tired, sore right elbow.
T - Swam ~700m. Proms: Schumann ***.
W - Legs conditioning: single leg squats, frog squats, heel raises; Shoulders/Elbows conditioning: handstands, side-planks, lock-offs. Proms: Handel ***.
T - Swam ~300m. Legs and shoulders conditioning as above. Fingerboard pick-ups, left hand only, progress to 14mm edge, 3 finger crimp and 10mm edge, 4 finger crimp.
F - Swam ~1000m. Shoulder and elbow conditioning. Late night Prom: Bach *****.
S - Westway autobelay: 2x 5 and 2x 5+. Elbow sore after this; not good. The lad made his concert debut with Chineke! junior orchestra playing Margaret Bonds' Montgomery Variations and Samuel Coleridge-Taylor's Symphony (Dvorak by way of Croydon). Lovely music, amazing standard of performance, excited child, proud parents etc. etc.*****
S - Swam ~400m. Fingerboard pick-ups, left hand only, progress to 14mm edge, 3 finger crimp and 10mm edge, 4 finger crimp. Legs conditioning. Proms: Mahler ****.

Frustrating week for climbing due to an elbow tweak, sorry to those I cancelled on. Hopefully with a few more days of relative rest I can start building back up again. Fingers feel strong. Some good non-climbing things compensated for this including five great concerts.

Will it ever end?

Southern Europe has been hellish this summer.

 

[Wellsy]

My reverse Uzbek curls-presses blow all those out the water mate

 

[Dingdong]

Only just realised how many of those are named after places :lol:

 

[SA Chris]

M - run 7.5 km
T - run back from leaving car at garage 7km.
W - walk to work - 5.75 km, run to garage, 4.5km
T - Fingerboard in evening.
F - meant to run, but friend gave daughter lift to rookies so i was off the hook.
S -guilt from yesterday, 7km early run, and wall session in afternoon.
S - not a lot. Wanted to climb in evening, but started pissing down as I stepped out the door.

Did either kettlebells, core or stretching most evenings.

 

[Ross.Cooper]

M: Warm-up OA hangs down to -20lb RH, -17.5lb LH. Board session.

T: Bench press 1RM, new PR: 235lb. Sumo deadlifts 1RM, never really done these before. Did 300lb, too scared to go heavier for now so guess that's a PR too. 30 mins peloton

W: Guanella Pass - Luck Dragon boulder. Managed to do all the moves on Ace of Spades V9 so started trying from the bottom. Very sharp, managed to link first couple of moves, one hard move remaining. Conditions a bit sweaty then finger too sore from a sharp edge so moved on to play on Luck Dragon V8. Conditions not favourable again and called it.

T: Bench press 200lb X3 *3, 3RM PR! Chest fly, Chest press, Shoulder press. 20 mins pelotion, PR

F: Power hour on the board

S: Mt Evans, Area C. Down to All Pigs Must Die V9 which took a while to figure out which beta would be best. Sent as skin was worsening. Moved on to In the Aeroplane over C V8 which after lots of beta changes I was able to send, maybe the third ascent of this one.
https://youtu.be/QoTYhwjymh4

 

[Duma]

M - rest after N Wales last weekend. Awful sleep
T - tired, binned training and went to bed early. Better sleep.
W - eve TCA 90 min oranges (medium easy) too hot for much else, did one of the new blues though.
T - festival
F - festival
S - festival
S - festival

71kg

 

[spidermonkey09]

Starting this again to see if it motivates me to pick training up again. I've been struggling with time and motivation what with 4 weddings this summer and the shit weather, so hoping writing it out will catalyse some psych.

M - Italy for a wedding. Drank and ate lots.
T - Italy: sightseeing in Rome in 38 degrees. Probably lost weight through sweating.
W - flight home. Knackered
T - back to work. Friend from Aus visited in the evening so a few drinks.
F- Heptonstall for some trad. Never been before, rated it. Just a few HVS and Thin Red Line, on which I got pumped. Keen for some of the harder stuff.
S - worked
S - 30th birthday! Went to Malham with the dog to celebrate as my partner was on nights. Unfortunately he wasn't brilliantly behaved which stressed me out a bit and I didn't climb well. Conditions weren't brilliant but didn't help myself with eating at the right times etc. Felt my best on the warm up!

Atm I seem to have one good tie in in me per session which is obviously dreadful. Arms feel weak, fingers feel fine. Am knocking out the start of Overnite pretty much every time now but am wilting higher on the wall. Plan is to do some arms and upper body work to address the base strength issue in the short term and go from there.

 

[oldfella]

Returning after a holiday with the family in El Chorro. We booked out the Olive Branch as an apartment. Had a great time, lazy days in the pool. Some way routes across the road in the evenings.

This week;
Club

Monday -

Tuesday


Wednesday
Campus at the depot followed by open bouldering session. Knocked off a few purples.


Thursday
Rest

Friday
Pull ups and curls

Saturday
Peloton ride 45min

Sunday
Went to Deep Rake for the morning. A very quick session. 10 to 1:30pm
Warmed up on a 6a. Then tried to Onsight Lead Vein Thrombosis. 1 Onsight attempt, 2 Redpoints. ran out of time.

Back into usual routine this week.

 

[Steve R]

M. Bench press, was aiming for 100kg but only managed a single decent rep at 90kg, felt pretty maxed out there so didn't attempt any higher. Guess will take a few sessions to get up to 100kg. kettlebell floor press and some other kettlebell stuff I don't know the names of after. PM. went to wall, persuaded to do a circuit training type thing with some friends. Various pulling and core stations (mercifully no pushing/pressing after bench earlier). Crimp block pulls after, 15mm up to 55kg.
T. Knackered. Acro yoga (god help me) and some stretching
W. Pm visit to Carlton Crags, NYM to have a look at Infusoria with Dave. Crag not catching any wind, midge horrendous by late on and I'd forgotten my midge net, fortunately Dave had his- belaying wouldn't have been feasible without. So not great cons but nice pressure free first top ropes. Amazing route. Top roped clean from deck second tie in so looking forward to lead attempt next decent cons visit but there is some wig factor to contend with. (still a bit achey and sore in places, probably did too much on Monday)
T. Wall pm. Crimp block pulls, 15mm up to 55kg. Some bouldering on newly set problems.
F. Rest
S. Wall. Crimp block pulls, 15mm up to 55kg. Some bouldering on newly set stuff, felt good. Some board after - felt ok but contact strength and accuracy felt well down. To be expected really after not doing much/any board climbing for a while. Fingers feeling healthy and strong once established on holds, just not feeling very snappy or fully coordinated on the board.
Bench press, just a few sets up to 80kg. By myself so no going to failure, just reps of 3 or 4 but 80kg felt a bit lighter than last time so hopefully 100kg not too far off. Also did some deadlifting, mainly focussing on technique.
S. Rest, just some easy problems at wall in the aerocap spirit.

 

[Fultonius]

Power Club

Mon - double volume AM session. Loaded carries. 39°.
Tue - loaded carries. 39°.
Wed - light jog, hill sprints, stairs. 41°.
Thu - boxing bag. 39°.
Fri - light weights. Short on time. 41°.
Sat - double volume AM session. 39°.
Sun - double volume AM session. 39°. Will it ever end?

I heard it snowed to 1500m yesterday or the day before?

 

[Nibile]

Hey!
Yes, apparently when we were boiling, in the North they've had very heavy rain with some floodings, and snow. Mental.

 

[Wellsy]

I've not kept up on what I've done this week but; squatting, benching, Olympic Lifting, Fingerboarding, board sessions and a couple of outdoor sessions

I'm feeling a degree of anxiety in life right now which has definitely impaired my already feeble boldness. However I will keep striving and continue to push myself, knowing I'll still get stuff done support from a fine member of the UKB parish has been very welcome