11.11
M. AM Tor with Mina. Connies! 14 degrees with a breeze. AM headwall. Holds felt amazing. Played on the moves. Tried to link from hole but got distracted. Second tie in jugged back up and top roped from Prow hole to overshooting last hold (a gaston) before the break ie move 1-11. Then did move 6-12 and carried on to the Crucifixion rest and fell off trying to get established over the roof. Climbed to crux but then too boxed to dog through crux. Quick play on Bens established that I was too spent to do anything more
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W Out to High Tor with John on an ok forecast. Got to Starkholmes and started spitting with rain and was super clammy. Headed to Moat which was also clammy so I just did a stint of belaying to save myself for the following day.
T Home warm up. High Tor Duncan. Great conditions. Jumped straight on Supersonic then jumped straight off after the low crux as couldn’t commit to swinging up onto the rib just like last week. Arghh. Duncan led Perseus E3 in fine style. I followed with strangely sore forearms. Back on the deck I went to retrieve my gear on Supersonic and thought I’d have a go at the moves and pissed through the crux. Duncan was encouraging me to gear up and have a proper go but with the sun coming round which would have been in my eyes decided to strip it. Duncan keen for a repeat of Robert Brown E3 and crucially happy to lead the serious first pitch as that was something I wasn’t up for. However after a lengthy and thorough risk assessment at the bulge Duncan lowered off. Retrieving the gear would have been a pain and having got bored belaying I gave it a go. Determined not to have a second ignominious retreat of the day I committed straight away over the bulge though it was more runout and had more questionable rock than I remember but fortunately all went ok. Second pitch for Duncan then home.
F Lazy start. Home warm up. Bens. Drizzly humid but ok temps with a breeze. Felt strong. Cross through at 3rd attempt Throw at 2nd. Toe hook into kick 3 attempts just failing to get right foot on pinch. Couple of abortive attempts at starting moves. Worked on getting toe on pinch. Home Ergo Edge HC. BW x 10 secs +7.5kg x 10 secs +15kg x 10 secs +20kg x 7 secs and 10 secs +22.5kg 6 and 6 secs
Drive to Devon
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S Drive back from Devon
I’ve only ever linked the Anger Management headwall once post foot breakage so psyched to almost get the link again especially after going backwards the previous week. The last and only time I got the full link was Sept 2021 after 19 sessions! over 4 months although most of them were in frustratingly shit conditions and I resolved not to take that approach again. Currently only! 7 sessions in with plenty of the year left though cool breezy conditions was the key for me on the crux section on Monday. Lot to think about. Will see how I get on tomorrow and think about my strategy.
Frustrated with my mental block on Supersonic as it feels like a general blocker to my longer term trad aspirations though did get my shit together on Robert Brown.
Surprised at how much extra weight I could deadhang after bouldering on Bens so will experiment with doing this more after climbing even though it’s about the last thing I want to do after getting home
