Duma
Well-Known Member
Power Club
M - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Few crunches and back bridges for knee, which although much improved from last Thursday's dodginess, is still well below average (which is itself a step below healthy since cider soak 2 years ago). Eve session, Cheddar, the Wave. Nipped across the road to try and tick off another from my cheddar 7a list to warm up, Dada. It's apparently soft but I slipped off damp holds after misreading the crux. Tbh it's not great, and we only had the eve, so stripped it without redpointing. Realised as I did that it's half term and you're not allowed on the South side, doh! Hopefully got away without arousing the wrath of either Cheddar Gorge and Caves, or Martin Crocker! Over on the Wave, got stuck into Greed a 7b+ I'd always dismissed as it's meant to be very reachy and doesn't get many ticks. The obvious crux is reachy, but I could just about span, and there's some really good moves before and after, finishing with a big move from crimps and a high foot to a flat finishing hold. Took a couple of goes to sort the sequence, but managed it 4th try, by the absolute skin of my teeth on the last move, very satisfying. Nipped up Billy Crystal a surprisingly ok 6b+ before dark to bring me one closer to ticking the Wave.
T - knee still a bit tweaky. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Walked to and from TCA in the hope it might help knee. Saw Jonny there who did something similar recently and passed on an exercise Huffy gave him so will try that for a few weeks. Tried to flash all the new purples (5 - 6B), failed on one, mainly as still warming up and not concentrating. Amusing how much easier this was than the orange circuit I did in font a couple of weeks ago. Knee rehab in eve.
W - Knee rehab in morning. Drive to Portland pm, chill in campsite with more knee rehab and 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
T - Knee rehab in morning. Coastguard North, planned South but got distracted after walking down. I've done a lot of the routes here 20 years ago, but still a few gaps. The Man Who Never Found Himself (6a+) to warm up, then dropped the last move of Van People (7a) on OS, steady 2nd go. Managed an OS of Spare Rib (7b) before lunch. Swim and a sandwich, then got Prison Sex (7c+) 3rd go. Weather was great, every route I did was amazing, and felt like I was climbing well. Lush day.
F - knee rehab in morning. Blacknor South/Far South. Bit more cloud around but still warm and dry. Did a 5 ( It's My Life) by the descent but then moved away from the crowds to Far South. Rag n Bone Man 6b, then 3 excellent 7a+'s on the left: Bushwacked dropped the OS but ok 2nd go, The Singing Bush satisfyingly easy flash, and best of the lot Chaos UK slipped off a smear on the OS, only just got it next go.
S - Knee rehab in morning. Coastguard again. OS a newer line at North Payback Day 6c+, looks a bit squeezed in but climbs well and independently. Then round to coastguard South, so good here! Xavier's Wall 6a for another warm up, then tried the gloriously named Full Fathom Five 7b, guessed wrong on the OS, then took a while to work out the crux. Managed it 2nd go, but felt a struggle in the heat. Last route was Bermuda Triangle 6c, initial cherty steepness leads to a complete change of scene at half height with a brilliant slab to finish. Messed about too long at the bottom on the OS (suspect energy levels were pretty low by this point too) and failed at the 2nd bolt, but it was so good that doing it again was a pleasure.
S - exhausted so drove home
Excellent long weekend, great to come back to Portland after many years away. The new campsite (sweet hill farm) is a real bonus, perfect location (walking distance from loads of the best crags) and makes it a much more appealing destination for the weekend
71.5 kg
2022 plank total 155 min
M - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Few crunches and back bridges for knee, which although much improved from last Thursday's dodginess, is still well below average (which is itself a step below healthy since cider soak 2 years ago). Eve session, Cheddar, the Wave. Nipped across the road to try and tick off another from my cheddar 7a list to warm up, Dada. It's apparently soft but I slipped off damp holds after misreading the crux. Tbh it's not great, and we only had the eve, so stripped it without redpointing. Realised as I did that it's half term and you're not allowed on the South side, doh! Hopefully got away without arousing the wrath of either Cheddar Gorge and Caves, or Martin Crocker! Over on the Wave, got stuck into Greed a 7b+ I'd always dismissed as it's meant to be very reachy and doesn't get many ticks. The obvious crux is reachy, but I could just about span, and there's some really good moves before and after, finishing with a big move from crimps and a high foot to a flat finishing hold. Took a couple of goes to sort the sequence, but managed it 4th try, by the absolute skin of my teeth on the last move, very satisfying. Nipped up Billy Crystal a surprisingly ok 6b+ before dark to bring me one closer to ticking the Wave.
T - knee still a bit tweaky. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Walked to and from TCA in the hope it might help knee. Saw Jonny there who did something similar recently and passed on an exercise Huffy gave him so will try that for a few weeks. Tried to flash all the new purples (5 - 6B), failed on one, mainly as still warming up and not concentrating. Amusing how much easier this was than the orange circuit I did in font a couple of weeks ago. Knee rehab in eve.
W - Knee rehab in morning. Drive to Portland pm, chill in campsite with more knee rehab and 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
T - Knee rehab in morning. Coastguard North, planned South but got distracted after walking down. I've done a lot of the routes here 20 years ago, but still a few gaps. The Man Who Never Found Himself (6a+) to warm up, then dropped the last move of Van People (7a) on OS, steady 2nd go. Managed an OS of Spare Rib (7b) before lunch. Swim and a sandwich, then got Prison Sex (7c+) 3rd go. Weather was great, every route I did was amazing, and felt like I was climbing well. Lush day.
F - knee rehab in morning. Blacknor South/Far South. Bit more cloud around but still warm and dry. Did a 5 ( It's My Life) by the descent but then moved away from the crowds to Far South. Rag n Bone Man 6b, then 3 excellent 7a+'s on the left: Bushwacked dropped the OS but ok 2nd go, The Singing Bush satisfyingly easy flash, and best of the lot Chaos UK slipped off a smear on the OS, only just got it next go.
S - Knee rehab in morning. Coastguard again. OS a newer line at North Payback Day 6c+, looks a bit squeezed in but climbs well and independently. Then round to coastguard South, so good here! Xavier's Wall 6a for another warm up, then tried the gloriously named Full Fathom Five 7b, guessed wrong on the OS, then took a while to work out the crux. Managed it 2nd go, but felt a struggle in the heat. Last route was Bermuda Triangle 6c, initial cherty steepness leads to a complete change of scene at half height with a brilliant slab to finish. Messed about too long at the bottom on the OS (suspect energy levels were pretty low by this point too) and failed at the 2nd bolt, but it was so good that doing it again was a pleasure.
S - exhausted so drove home
Excellent long weekend, great to come back to Portland after many years away. The new campsite (sweet hill farm) is a real bonus, perfect location (walking distance from loads of the best crags) and makes it a much more appealing destination for the weekend
71.5 kg
2022 plank total 155 min
