Power Club 645 16-22 May 2022

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Any advice on a A2 strain. Apart from icing it. 4th day on today. And after a board session this evening, it’s tender & sore on my ring finger.
No acute incident or pop. Just felt sore at the end of the session.
 
James Malloch said:
duncan said:
Thanks everyone.

jwi said:
Depending on where you are staying, Rue de masque is also within one hour driving. Less than 60 km from Gap.
We're staying in walking distance of the crag, so RdM is a little further than one hour. Looks a decent option tho'.
James Malloch said:
I think we’re staying here (at the campsite) for another week at least. Maybe see you at the crag?

Not sure if it’s possible, but all the locals are on e-bikes. Looks like the pros often get them when here too - maybe you could hire one somewhere and cut out a lot of the walk? Not sure how intense any pedalling is, but sounds like it cuts out a lot of walking effort!

Happy to help with ropes etc too if you want a packhorse for a day to stash things up there.

spidermonkey09 said:
Duncan - worth renting an ebike to take the edge off the approach? Glad things are improving though; I'd have thought the approach would be ok if you give yourself plenty of time to wander up in the mornings.

We're arriving on the 29th. Noted the idea of the e-bikes, I wonder where you rent them? I guess the pros have them in their campervans. Ironically the walk-in was my relative strength on previous visits but that was then...

If I take the walk slowly, allow a stop or two, take an afternoon nap, and make plenty of cups of tea I should be OK. I'll take a drybag and might stash some gear up there.

You can hire them here, but it’s €40 per day so not the cheapest.

We’ve been walking up early to avoid the heat and climbing until lunch then having a 3 hour chill. But the forecast is looking good for cloudier, cooler days.
[/quote]

Missed the link https://www.e-pedal.fr/fr/location-velo-vtt-electrique/
 
Aussiegav said:
Any advice on a A2 strain. Apart from icing it. 4th day on today. And after a board session this evening, it’s tender & sore on my ring finger.
No acute incident or pop. Just felt sore at the end of the session.

I'm not the most experienced in these but i've had benefits from cross-taping over the knuckle so the finger can't actually go into a full crimp position. Sticking to climbing open-handed for now and at a lower load. For the acute stages a bit of rest and icing it in the short term ofc.
 
Aussiegav said:
Any advice on a A2 strain. Apart from icing it. 4th day on today. And after a board session this evening, it’s tender & sore on my ring finger.
No acute incident or pop. Just felt sore at the end of the session.

When I did mine (sounded similar) it was pretty painful but with no pop.

I took it easy climbing from then on for a while (3 months to be not thinking about it at all) and did density pulls 4/5 times a day. 30 seconds of Pulling hard enough on a hold to trigger the pain but never getting more than about 5 or 6 out of 10.

On the board I would just use grips which didn’t hurt.

I also used the pulley rings from Andy (process physiotherapy) which I think helped a lot when climbing too. I had a session with him too for the diagnosis to confirm an injury. The rings are basically a way to tape up real tight without constricting blood flow. £30 for 3 but worth it for my rehab.
 
duncan said:
I have a BMC multi-trip insurance from January. I phoned the helpline yesterday to ask if I was covered and the person was singularly unhelpful. I’m not sure they realised I already had a policy as they were just keen to sell. I’ve emailed but no reply as yet. Any thoughts?

Was that a BMC staff member you spoke to or someone from the claim handling company? Best person to speak to about policies is Jim and if you need to escalate then Arun heads up the Insurance team. Their emails are here: www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-staff-list

James Malloch said:
What dates are you in Briancon? I think that might be our next stop.

3-10 June
 
shark said:
duncan said:
I have a BMC multi-trip insurance from January. I phoned the helpline yesterday to ask if I was covered and the person was singularly unhelpful. I’m not sure they realised I already had a policy as they were just keen to sell. I’ve emailed but no reply as yet. Any thoughts?

Was that a BMC staff member you spoke to or someone from the claim handling company? Best person to speak to about policies is Jim and if you need to escalate then Arun heads up the Insurance team. Their emails are here: www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-staff-list

James Malloch said:
What dates are you in Briancon? I think that might be our next stop.

3-10 June

Ah cool. We’re probably staying in Ceuse for a week or two. And want to be in the Frankenjura around 20th June.

I’m keen for Briancon to visit a friend but the food near Arco is also quite a draw!

If we’re in the area I’ll let you know. I think we met at the 5/6 years ago but always nice to meet people from here.
 
Power au chocolat club...

M: 5 miler along Stanage and back - not run for ages and was well slow but was great!
T: Nowt
W: Sheaf bloc - Shut down! Utter, utter shite! Rest for Verdon!
T: Rest
F: Travel to Verdon
S: Dolce Vita F6b - Wow! Awesome and not a sandbag... Not too exposed either so felt well within my comfort zone! Best pitch was the last and still had some daylight so gave Jus the lead on Wide is Love F6a... SHIT THE BED! Almost had a breakdown, nearly missed the belay abbing in from the top, pulling the ropes with that level of exposure was almost too much to bear, chalkbag nearly falling off into the void halfway up was just the last straw... Had to have a little lie down after that! (climbing was piss tho!)
S: Dalles Grisis - Did some 4 pitch F6c (whose name escapes me)... Mostly F6a/b with one hard section... Great climbing!

Wow! Verdon is amazing, wasn't quite prepared for the feeling of utter commitment when abbing in and pulling the ropes on a hanging stance with no idea what lies below though... Quite a ride!
 
That’s sounds amazing & trouser filling all in one Duncan :clap2: :clap2: :clap2:
 

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