Power Club 645 16-22 May 2022

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - upper body complex: RDL, clean, press, bentover row, high pulls.
Tue - rest.
Wed - ab wheel dynamic/static, high pulls.
Thu - weights.
Fri - weights.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - wheel, thruster and high pulls.

 

[JohnM]

M - Indoor bouldering. Trail run 7km +254m.

T - Trail run 16.89km +578m.

W - Indoor endurance training + campus laddering. Way too hot to train these days. Trail run 17.85km +794m.

T - Leg stretches, hamstring exercises + elbow rehab.

F - Outdoor climbing at Silz. About 30 degrees and failed on everything apart from the 6b warm up. 50% heat and 50% lack of confidence above the bolts.

S - Trail run 45.76km +3,012m.

S - Fly fishing 7km +191m of boulder hopping and bush whacking.

 

[tommytwotone]

Goal: New Font 7a outdoors by year end

Mini YYFY, major NNFN


Backstory - knee slowly getting better but no way I'd load it / fall on it / do any pistol squats.


Tues: Picked up dirt-cheap (and slightly faulty) exercise bike from guy off Facebook Marketplace
Weds: Physio appointment. Positive noises, inc OK to do some low-impact stuff like exercise bike and swimming
Thurs: Went to swanky new local leisure centre to swim (for first time in over a decade), did c.20 lengths, very slowly / badly
Fri: Watching TV in evening. Shifted in my seat, something in my knee went pop, excruciating pain. Had to be helped up the stairs to go to bed.
Sat / Sun: Not moving very much.


NNFN. Back to (before) square one. Suspected for a while that physio's prognosis wasn't correct, guess this proves it. Booked in with knee specialist (via works healthcare scheme thing) but not until 7th June.

 

[Ross.Cooper]

M: 1 mile local walk. G1. Hangs: 20mm HC & OH 7s BW, +10lb, +20lb, +25lb *3. Kilterboard 40deg 1V3, 2V4, 9V5. Shoulder press 45lb, chest press 50lb X5 *3sets. 10 mins stairmaster at setting 8 (tough going after leg day).

T: 1 mile local walk. Core. 2.3 mile walk round Westminster Hills dog park.

W: 1 mile local walk. Lower body stretching. G1. Hangs: 20mm HC & OH 7s BW, +10lb, +20lb, +25lb, +30lb, +35lb. Kilterboard 40deg 1V3, 1V4, 4V5, 3V6. Shoulder press 45lb, chest press 50lb X6 *3sets. 10 mins stairmaster at setting 8.

T: 1 mile local walk. Guanella Pass. Evening potter doing 16 V-points V1-3. Pulled on a few harder things but was definitely tired from the day before.

F: Core

S: Black Hole Morrison. Several inches of wet spring snow overnight meant a trip to the weatherproof Black Hole. Warmed up and quickly repeated Helicopter, sandbag V5 - CO rite of passage. V psyched. Did a new linkup (for me), Tendonitis Traverse into Air Jordan to make Tendonitis Jordan at V6. Finished the day sending Missile V5 which was really good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urTM7ETOmVA

S: G1. Legs. Squats 175lb X5 *5. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *3. RDLs 60lb X2 X5 *3sets. Lower body stretching. 10 mins Stairmaster

 

[oldfella]

Goal: New Font 7a outdoors by year end

Major NNFN. Back to (before) square one. Suspected for a while that physio's prognosis wasn't correct, guess this proves it. Booked in with knee specialist (via works healthcare scheme thing) but not until 7th June.

Sorry to read this Tommy. Sincerest Empathies mate.

 

[tommytwotone]

Cheers - a bit annoying as I'd actually got to the point of being able to do some exercise, even if it was exercise that I don't like and am really poor at...my swimming is more "semi-competent drowning avoidance"!


Had my fair share of upper body climbing tweaks, but this is my first one below the waist. Actually worse as it impacts literally everything you do. Had to borrow some crutches from a family member who broke her foot recently, and had to use one of them to be able to drop my kids off at school this morning.


Hoping the specialist gives me some good news, just a bit of a pain to have to wait so long.

 

[James Malloch]

I'd imagine it'll be less busy on a weekday, but being busy is part of the fun at Ceuse. Better to embrace it or it'll just wind you up. The easy routes just to the right of Cascade are normally quiet, think the sector is called Thorgal. The Grand Face is also almost always quiet and very good. Make sure you do Petit Illusion at Berlin; unbelievable 7a+.

Cent Patates and Blocage are both excellent but neither are 7b+ really; CP is 7b and BV solid 7c! Very different, CP more of a slab climb and Blocage brutal power endurance. So good!

Way less busy today! Tried Petite Illusion today after seeing your post. Awesome route! Managed to drop it on the onsight* going to the jug at the penultimate bolt. Got the sequence right but should have put a LF on to get the extra inch I needed rather than just rocking up.

Next go I fell a few moves earlier. Feeling pretty shattered and looking forward to a rest day tomorrow and then back on it next time we’re up. Maybe Blocage is a bit much for me at the moment!

Really enjoying it, not got scared yet other than on a polished 7a and taken plenty of falls which isn’t like me!

 

[spidermonkey09]

That's basically what I did on my onsight go. There's such a lot of good low 7s to do. Don't miss Un Pont Sur L'Infini and La Reine de Pommes, also Retour en Afrique. All absolutely brilliant. If you can be arsed my logbook from when I went back in 2018 has notes on basically everything I did so you can avoid the routes that are only 2 stars!

I'm going back in August and can't wait.

 

[James Malloch]

That's basically what I did on my onsight go. There's such a lot of good low 7s to do. Don't miss Un Pont Sur L'Infini and La Reine de Pommes, also Retour en Afrique. All absolutely brilliant. If you can be arsed my logbook from when I went back in 2018 has notes on basically everything I did so you can avoid the routes that are only 2 stars!

I'm going back in August and can't wait.

I’ll have a look at it, thanks. If I get my visa sorted I’ll be here around august too I think. Fingers crossed!

 

[Fiend]

Poor TTTTT, that sounds real bad luck just going again like that.

 

[duncan]

I remember the muddy pocket because I managed to simultaneously slip out of it and get the rope through the biner on the chains just as I started falling, was happy to call that a tick!

TICK!

Way less busy today!

Phew! As others have said, Un pont sur l'infini and eastwards is often much quieter.

Shifted in my seat, something in my knee went pop, excruciating pain. Had to be helped up the stairs to go to bed.

Good luck TTT.


M - see last week.
T - Shoulder conditioning: lock-offs at various angles, side planks, handstands.
W - Shoulders.
T - Shoulders, 5km walk.
F - Fingerboard: 15mm edge: 10s hangs with a 4 finger half-crimp, 5s “trying hard” one arm at a time with a 3 finger crimp. A decent session considering.
S - Exhausted.
S - Fingerboard as Friday. 5km walk (to a concert at the Barbican). Exhausted.
M - Review appointment at the hospital. Leg is still somewhat swollen but looking less red and unhappy. The repeat US scan shows no DVT and blood tests are back to normal. Saw a different doctor who thinks the US does not rule out a superficial thrombus - ie the sapheous vein - but he's not concerned and the treatment for this is a simple NSAID or asprin rather than a stronger anticoagulant. He didn't want to restart antibiotics and was happy to sign a piece of paper saying I was fit to travel. I’m still a bit concerned about the somewhat conflicting advice from different people but I’m going to go to France and hope I get fit enough for the Céüse walk-in whilst I’m there. Walked 7km, longest in two weeks.

I have a BMC multi-trip insurance from January. I phoned the helpline yesterday to ask if I was covered and the person was singularly unhelpful. I’m not sure they realised I already had a policy as they were just keen to sell. I’ve emailed but no reply as yet. Any thoughts?

Any suggestions for crags with a less onerous approach than Céüse?! Ideally with some easy stuff as I'll need to be pretty cautious for a day or two, not in the full sun, and within an hours drive! Orpierre seems a possibility?

 

[Fiend]

Glad there's progress, Duncan!

 

[jwi]

Depending on where you are staying, Rue de masque is also within one hour driving. Less than 60 km from Gap.

 

[Fultonius]

Sounds like some positive progress Duncan!

I would have though that as long as you are "fit to fly" and have not been told by a GP/med professional not to fly, then you will be covered. I'm sure the tedious small print will explain it somewhere.

Hope Ceuse is good!

 

[spidermonkey09]

Duncan - worth renting an ebike to take the edge off the approach? Glad things are improving though; I'd have thought the approach would be ok if you give yourself plenty of time to wander up in the mornings.

 

[SA Chris]

Orpierre seems a possibility?

My first though, or Sisteron?

Glad it looks like things are improving.

 

[James Malloch]

I remember the muddy pocket because I managed to simultaneously slip out of it and get the rope through the biner on the chains just as I started falling, was happy to call that a tick!

TICK!

Way less busy today!

Phew! As others have said, Un pont sur l'infini and eastwards is often much quieter.

Shifted in my seat, something in my knee went pop, excruciating pain. Had to be helped up the stairs to go to bed.

Good luck TTT.


M - see last week.
T - Shoulder conditioning: lock-offs at various angles, side planks, handstands.
W - Shoulders.
T - Shoulders, 5km walk.
F - Fingerboard: 15mm edge: 10s hangs with a 4 finger half-crimp, 5s “trying hard” one arm at a time with a 3 finger crimp. A decent session considering.
S - Exhausted.
S - Fingerboard as Friday. 5km walk (to a concert at the Barbican). Exhausted.
M - Review appointment at the hospital. Leg is still somewhat swollen but looking less red and unhappy. The repeat US scan shows no DVT and blood tests are back to normal. Saw a different doctor who thinks the US does not rule out a superficial thrombus - ie the sapheous vein - but he's not concerned and the treatment for this is a simple NSAID or asprin rather than a stronger anticoagulant. He didn't want to restart antibiotics and was happy to sign a piece of paper saying I was fit to travel. I’m still a bit concerned about the somewhat conflicting advice from different people but I’m going to go to France and hope I get fit enough for the Céüse walk-in whilst I’m there. Walked 7km, longest in two weeks.

I have a BMC multi-trip insurance from January. I phoned the helpline yesterday to ask if I was covered and the person was singularly unhelpful. I’m not sure they realised I already had a policy as they were just keen to sell. I’ve emailed but no reply as yet. Any thoughts?

Any suggestions for crags with a less onerous approach than Céüse?! Ideally with some easy stuff as I'll need to be pretty cautious for a day or two, not in the full sun, and within an hours drive! Orpierre seems a possibility?

Glad to hear your on the mend. I think we’re staying here (at the campsite) for another week at least. Maybe see you at the crag?

Not sure if it’s possible, but all the locals are on e-bikes. Looks like the pros often get them when here too - maybe you could hire one somewhere and cut out a lot of the walk? Not sure how intense any pedalling is, but sounds like it cuts out a lot of walking effort!

Happy to help with ropes etc too if you want a packhorse for a day to stash things up there.

 

[James Malloch]

11.6-9 average 163.4 up 0.1lb

M

T

W. AM Home warm up. Tor. Temps ok when I arrived but soon got too hot. Played on Bens. Didn’t feel as fresh and good as I hoped after 4 days rest. However, more solid on cross thru finding that pulling body across as well as inwards helped. Also identified why I’ve been finding second move of crux section harder lately which is because I’m getting less out of the pocket when I’m extended because I’m holding it differently which in turn means theres more of my weight on the other arm on the crimp when swinging right leg out then in to toe hook. I’m sure this move will be ok in better conditions. Also next time will explore if I can make it easier by moving RF somewhere first. :-\

T.

F. Trad day 5. Earlyish start. Brief home warm up then High Tor with Simon K. He led Perseus which I followed. My aim was to do Lyme Cryme in a single pitch. Bit of offputting drizzle when I started but did the groove and runout to the break ok which I was dreading but then unexpectedly found myself pumped and scared on the crux groove in the bulge and ended up dogging past the terrible looking peg with the tat though might have done it clean with the confidence of an extra cam to back the peg. Felt like an ordeal to the top but chuffed with my rope work as there was no rope drag. Great way to do it as a single pitch especially as the midway belay is a faff to set up. Clearly still got a long way to go with trad fitness

S.

S.

Easier week this week. Feel like I’ve lost impetus and direction though plenty to look forward to. Mingulay in 10 days time for 5 days then out to Briancon with family and the Barkers for 10 days. Also Sonia keen to book flights for Chicago in mid October for the marathon so decided it would be silly not to tag on an RRG trip after as it’s only a short internal flight or 6.5hour drive. No climbing partners or accommodation sorted but worst case I can camp at Miguel’s and climb with randoms

What dates are you in Briancon? I think that might be our next stop.

 

[duncan]

Thanks everyone.

Depending on where you are staying, Rue de masque is also within one hour driving. Less than 60 km from Gap.

We're staying in walking distance of the crag, so RdM is a little further than one hour. Looks a decent option tho'.


[/quote]

I think we’re staying here (at the campsite) for another week at least. Maybe see you at the crag?

Not sure if it’s possible, but all the locals are on e-bikes. Looks like the pros often get them when here too - maybe you could hire one somewhere and cut out a lot of the walk? Not sure how intense any pedalling is, but sounds like it cuts out a lot of walking effort!

Happy to help with ropes etc too if you want a packhorse for a day to stash things up there.

Duncan - worth renting an ebike to take the edge off the approach? Glad things are improving though; I'd have thought the approach would be ok if you give yourself plenty of time to wander up in the mornings.

We're arriving on the 29th. Noted the idea of the e-bikes, I wonder where you rent them? I guess the pros have them in their campervans. Ironically the walk-in was my relative strength on previous visits but that was then...

If I take the walk slowly, allow a stop or two, take an afternoon nap, and make plenty of cups of tea I should be OK. I'll take a drybag and might stash some gear up there.

 

[James Malloch]

Thanks everyone.

Depending on where you are staying, Rue de masque is also within one hour driving. Less than 60 km from Gap.

We're staying in walking distance of the crag, so RdM is a little further than one hour. Looks a decent option tho'.

I think we’re staying here (at the campsite) for another week at least. Maybe see you at the crag?

Not sure if it’s possible, but all the locals are on e-bikes. Looks like the pros often get them when here too - maybe you could hire one somewhere and cut out a lot of the walk? Not sure how intense any pedalling is, but sounds like it cuts out a lot of walking effort!

Happy to help with ropes etc too if you want a packhorse for a day to stash things up there.

Duncan - worth renting an ebike to take the edge off the approach? Glad things are improving though; I'd have thought the approach would be ok if you give yourself plenty of time to wander up in the mornings.

We're arriving on the 29th. Noted the idea of the e-bikes, I wonder where you rent them? I guess the pros have them in their campervans. Ironically the walk-in was my relative strength on previous visits but that was then...

If I take the walk slowly, allow a stop or two, take an afternoon nap, and make plenty of cups of tea I should be OK. I'll take a drybag and might stash some gear up there.
[/quote]

You can hire them here, but it’s €40 per day so not the cheapest.

We’ve been walking up early to avoid the heat and climbing until lunch then having a 3 hour chill. But the forecast is looking good for cloudier, cooler days.