Power Club 645 16-22 May 2022

[Simon Lee]

11.6-9 average 163.4 up 0.1lb

M

T

W. AM Home warm up. Tor. Temps ok when I arrived but soon got too hot. Played on Bens. Didn’t feel as fresh and good as I hoped after 4 days rest. However, more solid on cross thru finding that pulling body across as well as inwards helped. Also identified why I’ve been finding second move of crux section harder lately which is because I’m getting less out of the pocket when I’m extended because I’m holding it differently which in turn means theres more of my weight on the other arm on the crimp when swinging right leg out then in to toe hook. I’m sure this move will be ok in better conditions. Also next time will explore if I can make it easier by moving RF somewhere first. :-\

T.

F. Trad day 5. Earlyish start. Brief home warm up then High Tor with Simon K. He led Perseus which I followed. My aim was to do Lyme Cryme in a single pitch. Bit of offputting drizzle when I started but did the groove and runout to the break ok which I was dreading but then unexpectedly found myself pumped and scared on the crux groove in the bulge and ended up dogging past the terrible looking peg with the tat though might have done it clean with the confidence of an extra cam to back the peg. Felt like an ordeal to the top but chuffed with my rope work as there was no rope drag. Great way to do it as a single pitch especially as the midway belay is a faff to set up. Clearly still got a long way to go with trad fitness

S.

S.

Easier week this week. Feel like I’ve lost impetus and direction though plenty to look forward to. Mingulay in 10 days time for 5 days then out to Briancon with family and the Barkers for 10 days. Also Sonia keen to book flights for Chicago in mid October for the marathon so decided it would be silly not to tag on an RRG trip after as it’s only a short internal flight or 6.5hour drive. No climbing partners or accommodation sorted but worst case I can camp at Miguel’s and climb with randoms

 

[Fultonius]

Nice one Shark. Sounds like you're going well enough to get a decent week out of Mingulay! Let's just hope the usually good May weather turns up at some point!!

Finally managed to shift a few kg and got under 78kg for the first time since last year. Seem to be generally keeping motivation/energy levels high which is nice.

I actually missed the last 2 weeks on here.... Not been doing a huge amount of "training" and won't go into a blow by blow trip log. Suffice to say:

Had a trip to Glen Nevis but my deep biceps/briachialis/broachioradials were grumbling, so just led 3 E2s including the *** Travellin' Man and **** (and bolder than expected....) Plague of Blazes. Glen Nevis is SOOOO good pre-midge/bracken. Nice early season trad-head settlers (and some much needed low-end endurance...)

Spent the rest of the week nursing the elbows. Had a light TCA session with some foot on campus which didn't seem to affect the 'ceps at all. Gym work (pushing/shoulders/antags/core)

Headed up north for a 3 day hit. Forecast iffy but good on the Sunday (8th) so went to Loch Maree crag for the first time. Lovely! Managed to summon up enough trad psyche to leave the ground on Spirit Air, a 48m single pitch E5 that used to be 2 E4 pitches with a poor belay. WHAT AN OUTING! Trad confidence was moderate to good and I felt pretty chilled running it out where I needed to, but I didn't quite manage the pacing/resting and pump well enough, fannied around for ages on a poor rest, got flapping wing elbows and slumped onto the rope. Sally suggested I lower off and have another go rather than dogging, glad I did. Got it 2nd go. Phenomenal route! 29 runners placed and it still had 3-4m runouts...

f6c onsight for mileage

Monday was a wet forecast, but in the end it was dry enough so we went to Huntly's cave. I clearly wasn't fully recovered as I pumped off an E4 2 moves short of the good jams... Great fun though.

Tuesday: Covesea. Did a few E3s and was swithering over Fascist Octopus (E5) and Roof Crack (E6). Fascist Octupus looks great, but I felt I needed just a bit more confidence and "zip" in the arms as it needed a few hard moves above gear. Roof Crack on the other hand had overhead gear but apparently 6c jamming! Gave it a good stab, but the finger crack was unexpectedly wet as was the crucial foothold (the rest of the crag was in perfect dry condition...) Oh well!

Must have done some training later that week.... oh yeah, Friday TCA session doing some minute on minute off laps on the lattice after doing 20 problems on the minute. Some gym stuff (TRX rows, shoulder press, face pulls)

Sat-Sun just resting.

Monday: Erm... TCA session. Big session, forgot to take notes... oh yeah, 10 min warm-up on the autobelays. Just trying some problems up to 7A. Finished with lattice max moves test (exactly the same result as back in November...bah!!!) really need to get some improvement in my aerobic endurance/power and then the crimped lattice power endurance 4 x 4 type thing.

Weds: first trip to Malham! Warmed up with and onsight (not easy!) of the 6c on the left, then tried to onsight Yosemite Wall. Felt like I managed the pump and route reading ok, but came off at the traverse right to the big jugs/kneebar rest thing. Basically didn't use the best handholds and had total footwork blindness going on when I was faced with an array of poor and polished feet (my nemesis) so just tried to burl though with a big reach and came off...

2nd go went fine. Really fun route!

Then tried New Dawn and had the usual experience - totally shut down on the start, then managed the rest with a few stops and had the standard experience on the runout! Nearly, very nearly took the big ride! I'll try it agin if back, but not sure it's got me hooked for become a project.

Friday: Upper Cave with John to try The Silk Purse. Warm up TR on Hamish Teds first half (7aish) and then 3 working goes. Figured out all the moves but might need some refinement. Psyched for a 5.13 project ;D Warm down lap on HT but had to rest just before the Malena jugs.

Sat: Nowt

Today: probably nothing, maybe a FB sesh later. Bit hungover as GF back from a week away and had a fondue / drink in the pub.

 

[Simon Lee]

There is a non-powerful but knacky way to do the New Dawn start where you use a sidepull out left for your LH and right toe in one of the pockets on the tufa and left toe bridged against a vertical edge in the curving flake and hunker in to get traction out the sidepull then stand up to reach the pegged out undercut slot with your RH

 

[Neil F]

…Managed to summon up enough trad psyche to leave the ground on Spirit Air….

Isn’t Spirit Air brilliant…! Not a giveaway though - typical Kev H. I can’t believe it used to get E4 :lol:

Neil

 

[James Malloch]

M. Day trip to Girona. Nice place and nice coffee! Didn’t make it to any of the food recommendations unfortunately but It’s a really cool city!

T. Intended to climb in Sadernes but forgot to download the crags before going and no signal there. Doh! Went for a walk and swim instead. Drove to a vineyard and stayed the night. Stocked up on wine.

W. Climbing at Mouries. Tried a 7a which felt like 7c. Brutal grading!

T. Back to Mouries. Did two 5’s and two 6b’s. Feeling better. Gave a 6c a go at the end. Worked out the beta after failing to onsight.

F. Back on the 6c. Went for a go putting the draws in. Realised my beta for the crux was shit. Reworked it but felt like a 6C Boulder on its own. Then found and easy sequence and it went next go.

S. Driving to Ceuse

S. Up to cascade first thing. Thought about trying Super Mickey but went for the 6c+ on the right first as I know it’s my anti-style there. Dropped it near the top putting the drawers in, then again on RP. Should go tomorrow. Demi-Lune in the afternoon and just did some easy 6’s which Zora could try leading after. Nice day but a shame it’s so busy. Most routes had parties on them!

Tried mixing butter and Nutella. Worked well.

Might try Cent Petats or Blockage Violent tomorrow as I’m really keen for them!

 

[Duma]

M - Eve session, Cheddar, the Wave. Mate was trying Bursting so thought I'd have a look at the new "8a+" next to it, Nano. Dogged up to try the moves and warm up, did all but one ok, and had a plan for that. 2nd go excellent, through both tough starting moves, but hadn't worked out feet for a long move in the middle. 3rd go should have done it, through all the hard climbing, but a couple of mistakes low down meant I was pretty gassed by the last bolt, and hadn't worked out an exact sequence for the finishing section as I'd assumed it would be over by then. 4th go success! Really good sequence on decent edges, realistically it's 7c+ though. Not enough sleep.
T - 12 hr shift.
W - Eve session, Cheddar, the Wave. Mate still on Bursting. Forecast sketchy at best and shower started as he started climbing. Not loads left for me on this bit of rock now, but Islands in the City 7a+ didn't look to be getting too wet and gets a lot of ticks so gave that a go, decent climbing, pretty steady OS, and all the holds dry, although I got pretty wet at the top! Rain stopped and by the time it was my turn to climb again the run off had dried back. Got on Split Rambo 7b+, weird brutal boulder problem before some easy bumbling up sloping ledges to the finish. Worked out a possible method. Started raining again just as I pulled on for the redpoint, scraped through the low crux to be confronted with now soaking ledges! Crimping the edges of the slopers desperately I made it to the belay. Felt like fun session snuck in despite the weather.
T - 3 min plank with variations and press ups. (new record!) 10k run (split into 2x5k by half an hour wandering around a chossy overgrown quarry), undulating, pavement, 58 min (28 and 30). Took it easy and walked up the hills.
F - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. TCA, 2 hrs, mostly new blacks (7A-7B) tried 16, flashed 6, 3 with a bit of work, 7 only gave one attempt to. 12 hr night shift.
S - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. 12 hr night shift.
S - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. 12 hr night shift.

71.5 kg
2022 plank total 141 min

Good week, lots of psyche at the moment.

 

[Duma]

Tried mixing butter and Nutella. Worked well.

This is the sort of gem I come to power club for

 

[Bradders]

Tried mixing butter and Nutella. Worked well.

Wait, as in you had butter on your toast in addition to Nutella? If so, for the first time? What kind of civilised person doesn't have butter on their toast, irrespective of any other spread?!

 

[oldfella]

Big week. Finished on a high today.
Monday -

Monday 16 May 2022
Did fingerboard session at home.
Did some half crimp lifts with 20kg kettlebell & lattice edge.
10s hangs
BW plus 2.5 kg
BW plus 2.5kg
BW Plus 5kg
Plus 7.5kg
Plus 10kg. X5 hangs.
Finished off with a 60min Power Zone endurance ride on the Peloton

Tuesday
Awesome Walls after work.
Did the following routes.; 6a, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+ (1hang), 6a+, 6a, 6a.

Wednesday -
Rest day

Thursday
Did some half crimp lifts with 20kg kettlebell & lattice edge.
10s hangs
BW plus 2.5 kg
BW plus 2.5kg
Plus 5kg
Plus 7.5kg
Plus 10kg.
Plus 12.5x 3 hangs.
Finished off with a 60min Power Zone endurance ride on the Peloton


Friday -
Rest day

Saturday -
Project session at the School dawn session.
Splat Board traverses
Campus board pulls 2-5- match
22mm edge x2
18mm edge x 3

Warm up problems 3min rests.
✓ Svartpump (2017)
✓ Christian Wars 1.1 (2017)
✓ Easy peasy 2 (2019)
✓ Warm up problem (2019)
◦ Dom Pérignon (2019) two tries. Confused myself trying to work out the sequence.
✓ Can’t crimp won’t crimp (2016)
✓ Tall Man (2016) slipped off top jug first try. 2nd go

Projecting .
◦ VV Victoria 6b+ five tries. Best one was the 4th. Didn’t match last hold.

Conditioning
Bench Press
1set of 8 bar + 30kg (50kg)
4 sets of 4 bar + 55kg (75kg)
Pull ups
2sets of 4 BW
4sets of 4 BW plus 8kg

Overhead press (standing)
1sets of 10 bar only
3 sets of 8 30kg

Sunday.
Harpur Hill. Great day.

Went out climbing with a mate, Neil, to Harpur Hill. To Onsight & see how my knee would go.

Neil took us to Long Wall. A 12m high slabby to vertical wall. The rock quality was good and the routes all turned out to be great.

Did the following routes;
Easy In the Gas. 6a Onsight
Addit Enough. 5+. Onsight
Too Long 6a. Onsight
Long Time No See. 6a. Flash
Longevity 6b. Top rope flash, then Redpointed 5 min later. Knee was fine.
A Dea. 6a. Onsight
So Long Farewell. 6a. Onsight
Belonging. 5+. Onsight.

Best day climbing in a very long time. Very happy. Even with a dicky knee, relearned the importance & value of making climbing fun. Even with injury.

 

[Duma]

Sounds like a great day Gav, psyched for you!

 

[James Malloch]

Tried mixing butter and Nutella. Worked well.

This is the sort of gem I come to power club for

It’s a solid recovery/crag snack. It’s up there with a croissant with raspberry jam and a couple of tinned Hot Dog sausages (this is actually very good).

Discovered mixing Oreo’s and haribo on a rest day recently too. Good combo.

 

[spidermonkey09]

I'd imagine it'll be less busy on a weekday, but being busy is part of the fun at Ceuse. Better to embrace it or it'll just wind you up. The easy routes just to the right of Cascade are normally quiet, think the sector is called Thorgal. The Grand Face is also almost always quiet and very good. Make sure you do Petit Illusion at Berlin; unbelievable 7a+.

Cent Patates and Blocage are both excellent but neither are 7b+ really; CP is 7b and BV solid 7c! Very different, CP more of a slab climb and Blocage brutal power endurance. So good!

 

[Fultonius]

All this chat of Ceuse is making me think about my "close but no cigar" route back in 2004 (first ever foreign sport trip!).

It was a 7b or 7b+ iirc, which started off with a tricky 6c slab to a no-hands rest, followed by overhanging big (two hands) pockets with a tricky finale to a muddy pocket. Got to the last move twice but could never deal the deal! Checked the logbook but can't figure out which it is.

 

[SA Chris]

the upper part of Super Mickey is a series of monster buckets with a stopper mono move needed to get to the last one, although I have seen someone jump past it. Don't remember the rest at the bottom, but recall it has a kind of slabby groove to start?

 

[csl]

All this chat of Ceuse is making me think about my "close but no cigar" route back in 2004 (first ever foreign sport trip!).

It was a 7b or 7b+ iirc, which started off with a tricky 6c slab to a no-hands rest, followed by overhanging big (two hands) pockets with a tricky finale to a muddy pocket. Got to the last move twice but could never deal the deal! Checked the logbook but can't figure out which it is.

Lapinerie at Demi Lune

 

[spidermonkey09]

Good shout, I was thinking maybe Beauf Story or others around that area, which all have slabs to start before it kicks back

 

[Fultonius]

Lapinerie at Demi Lune

We have a winner! I had this strange mix of excitement at very nearly doing my first f7b outdoors (or indoors for that matter) after doing my first 6c+ earlier that week, and potentially skipping 7a/7a+ plus the disappointment of not quite getting it but I remember it opening up this whole new world of possibility! Got my first 7a+ back in Scotland a few months later and 7b+ the next spring. (Hamish Ted's at Dunkeld) suffice to say my progress has never been as speedy as that ever since!! in fact, I've only really gained 1 grades in 5 years (of mainly trad and bouldering), peaked 2 years later (after nearly a year off with a big knee surgery) and have basically plateaued ever since :lol: Maybe this year or next I'll exceed my peak.

…Managed to summon up enough trad psyche to leave the ground on Spirit Air….

Isn’t Spirit Air brilliant…! Not a giveaway though - typical Kev H. I can’t believe it used to get E4 :lol:

Neil

It's amazing aye. Did nearly come off the bold bit up to the first part of the main crack by going too direct and ripping a crimp off... Kind of 4* with heavy blinkers on or 2.5* in reality... (top was also overgrown and muddy). If I happen to be back I'll lug in a abb rope and try to give it a good clean up.

There is a non-powerful but knacky way to do the New Dawn start where you use a sidepull out left for your LH and right toe in one of the pockets on the tufa and left toe bridged against a vertical edge in the curving flake and hunker in to get traction out the sidepull then stand up to reach the pegged out undercut slot with your RH

Cheers Simon, I'll try that next time! I was actually struggling to put enough force through my toe in the new boostics on the bit of hold everyone seems to use just below the pocket in the tufa - they clearly don't have any kind of toe midsole/insert! :furious: It was genuinely pretty painfull!

 

[csl]

I remember the muddy pocket because I managed to simultaneously slip out of it and get the rope through the biner on the chains just as I started falling, was happy to call that a tick!

 

[mr chaz]

Power Club:
M. Stretching in the evening.
T.
W.
T. Board session in the evening. Warmed up with 3 max hangs. Hideous conditions but sent one of my projects? Good session.
F.
S.
S. Sport climbing at Dinbren, 1st time on a rope for a year. No expectations and a bit nervous, but managed a 6b, 6c+ onsight, 6c+ 2nd go and repeated a 7a first go. I only have stamina for 3 moves in a row so all of these were a battle. Lovely, but fuck me my harness has got tighter.

 

[Fultonius]

Power Club:
M. Stretching in the evening.
T.
W.
T. Board session in the evening. Warmed up with 3 max hangs. Hideous conditions but sent one of my projects? Good session.
F.
S.
S. Sport climbing at Dinbren, 1st time on a rope for a year. No expectations and a bit nervous, but managed a 6b, 6c+ onsight, 6c+ 2nd go and repeated a 7a first go. I only have stamina for 3 moves in a row so all of these were a battle. Lovely, but fuck me my harness has got tighter.

Those shrinking harnesses are a bitch, right?¬??