Simon Lee
insect overlord #1
11.5-7 average 160.3 up 0.6lbs
M. Llandudno with Paul on a slightly iffy forecast. Couple of light showers but otherwise mint. Couple of tie ins on Statement. The holds appeared to have shrunk. Thought I’d be skipping across the top traverse but it’s still challenging. Third tie in I split a tip that delaminated the middle of one of my tips. Came down and taped up with superglue. Next go made better work of the top traverse but not still not in a oner. Bummer.
T. Nice weather in morning whilst the tide was in but previously unforecasted bad weather rolled in during the afternoon and we could see from a distance that the top of Statement was drenched even before the hail and lightening started. Taped my tip up again and had a go on Rock Atrocity with Paul. Could do the first move and almost the second and third. Didn’t try the finish. Good problem. Lacking lock strength for it. Could see myself getting involved with if it was at the Tor.
W.
T.
F. LPT cancelled so felt unmotivated. Lunch Managed to get my shit together to do a set of recruitment and speed pulls.
PM/Eve Tor. Reasonably busy but ok. Tip a lot better but taped up anyway to protect it. Decided I’d have a concerted effort at working on doing the throw move by the more standard and more static method. Thought it would all be about the lock in my left arm but the recent stretching I’ve been doing allowed me to get into position and drop my knees more comfortably which helped a lot. Only managed the move once but felt easy when I did it. Reverted to the dynamic method and did it once to the kick and then surprised myself by doing it comfortably from the throw all the way though into THFML only to drop the reach for the rail. After had a three tie ins on Tin Of including red pointing it once.
S.
S.
Weather scuppered plans this week. Had considered going back to LPT on Friday and climb with one of the locals whilst tides were good but forecast looked iffy so arranged for Malham on Thursday then shortly after bailed as Mescalito was reported as wet. By then the forecast for LPT had changed for better and persuaded Paul to go back to LPT. On Friday morning we bailed on LPT as forecast had changed to rain and ended up at Tor.
I enjoyed getting away to Llandudno and made more plans to do similar. Currently aiming to regain the level of stamina I had in the past whilst keeping strength ticking over.
No desire to get back on the Oak which is bizarre given how obsessed I’ve been with it for so long. Be interesting to see if it’s rekindled come the autumn but not going to force it. Whilst on one hand it’s nice not to have the pressure of trying the Oak but on the other I also miss the single minded focus it elicits. One consequence is that I’ve been overly relaxed with my diet so weight has been gradually creeping back up so will look to trim back a couple of pounds over next couple of weeks. Will restart food diary this week.
Weather forecast still unsettled this week so will probably have a concerted effort on Bens.
M. Llandudno with Paul on a slightly iffy forecast. Couple of light showers but otherwise mint. Couple of tie ins on Statement. The holds appeared to have shrunk. Thought I’d be skipping across the top traverse but it’s still challenging. Third tie in I split a tip that delaminated the middle of one of my tips. Came down and taped up with superglue. Next go made better work of the top traverse but not still not in a oner. Bummer.
T. Nice weather in morning whilst the tide was in but previously unforecasted bad weather rolled in during the afternoon and we could see from a distance that the top of Statement was drenched even before the hail and lightening started. Taped my tip up again and had a go on Rock Atrocity with Paul. Could do the first move and almost the second and third. Didn’t try the finish. Good problem. Lacking lock strength for it. Could see myself getting involved with if it was at the Tor.
W.
T.
F. LPT cancelled so felt unmotivated. Lunch Managed to get my shit together to do a set of recruitment and speed pulls.
PM/Eve Tor. Reasonably busy but ok. Tip a lot better but taped up anyway to protect it. Decided I’d have a concerted effort at working on doing the throw move by the more standard and more static method. Thought it would all be about the lock in my left arm but the recent stretching I’ve been doing allowed me to get into position and drop my knees more comfortably which helped a lot. Only managed the move once but felt easy when I did it. Reverted to the dynamic method and did it once to the kick and then surprised myself by doing it comfortably from the throw all the way though into THFML only to drop the reach for the rail. After had a three tie ins on Tin Of including red pointing it once.
S.
S.
Weather scuppered plans this week. Had considered going back to LPT on Friday and climb with one of the locals whilst tides were good but forecast looked iffy so arranged for Malham on Thursday then shortly after bailed as Mescalito was reported as wet. By then the forecast for LPT had changed for better and persuaded Paul to go back to LPT. On Friday morning we bailed on LPT as forecast had changed to rain and ended up at Tor.
I enjoyed getting away to Llandudno and made more plans to do similar. Currently aiming to regain the level of stamina I had in the past whilst keeping strength ticking over.
No desire to get back on the Oak which is bizarre given how obsessed I’ve been with it for so long. Be interesting to see if it’s rekindled come the autumn but not going to force it. Whilst on one hand it’s nice not to have the pressure of trying the Oak but on the other I also miss the single minded focus it elicits. One consequence is that I’ve been overly relaxed with my diet so weight has been gradually creeping back up so will look to trim back a couple of pounds over next couple of weeks. Will restart food diary this week.
Weather forecast still unsettled this week so will probably have a concerted effort on Bens.