Power Club 501 7-13th Oct

[Mr E S Capegoat]

So with Doylo’s backing I wanted to introduce a new form of sports performance psychology nearly exclusively to power club members. It was devised only today while eating a cheese toastie accompanied by a bag of salt n shake crisps. The approach is called ‘Gumpisms’. It basically uses wisdom extracted from the script of the film Forest Gump to help break plateaus in performance and provide a more wholistic vision of our pursuit. The assessment phase is free and then it will cost £10 per gumpism used. The assessment process will be carried out by our specialist team of ‘gumpspurts’ based at multiple centres in the Sheffield area. It will involve deep profiling of stuck states with a free initial gumpism provided at the end to get you started. One of my favourites so far, and might I add one that seems to break the deadlock is ‘Stupid is as stupid does, my mammy used to say’

 

[Simon Lee]

(Rich says hi).

Heard his cv was doing the rounds a while back and “looked to be good to be true” (non climber comment) :lol:

Presume he’s blagged his way into corporate land. He’ll go far

 

[duncan]

Simon, what do you think nudged you over the line? Why October 2019 and not before?

STG: continue rehab. Try some vertical 7as.
MTG: 7b+ by the end of the year.
LTG: tbc

M - 7km slow jog. Shoulder strength: one arm planks, side planks, IsYsTs (one arm at a time, so more like I k r).
T - Fingerboard, 18mm edge: pick-ups and one arm assisted hangs.
W - Fingerboard, 18mm edge
T - Hip stretches
F - Westway bouldering to ’V2’. Sore elbow and shoulder.
S - Shoulder strength: planks, side planks, IsYsTs. Hip and knee strength.
S - Shoulder strength 7km slow jog.

Shoulder much better, elbow taking time but going in the right direction. Siurana in two weeks: I’ve done two days of easy sport and no route training at all in the last 9 months. Onsighting will not be pretty! Hope this will encourage me to embrace redpointing more fully.

 

[Ballsofcottonwool]

M: nothing, normally its turbo trainer night, but bike was in pieces waiting for a new chainset.
T: nothing
W: Avertical World bouldering, 35deg board Black x3 Green x3 attempts, Moonboard Benchmarks 2x6A+ flashed, 2x6A+ 2nd go, 2 attempts each on another 5 other 6A+ benchmarks, 1x attempt each on first 7x6B benchmarks
T:nothing
F: Supposed to be at Transition Extreme climbing with the kids in the evening, but house was total carnage after 1st day of tattie holidays, so spent the evening and most of Saturday morning tidying up instead
S: nothing
S: Aviemore with the family to support wife doing the 10k race. Walked the kids all the way across town 1.5miles and back to the Route7 café for a great breakfast. 3.5mile walk around Loch Morlich with the whole family in the afternoon to stop Jay's legs seizing up. 6.5mile total farthest I've walked all year, legs still aching on Tuesday.

STG(November) Moonboard 6C

MTG(spring clean) clear the shite out of the garage so I have somewhere to train at home again.

LTG Moonboard 7A, f8a route

 

[Simon Lee]

Simon, what do you think nudged you over the line? Why October 2019 and not before?

Nudging over the line is about right as I was close several times before but I was always trying whereas last Friday I was all over it.

Not really sure but factors that may have helped
- Being 2kg+ lighter
- The recent campus training making the penultimate lunge move easier and with slightly better contact strength and control
- Better stamina from going on Mescalito and AeroCap systems board work

My core was also stronger releasing the first kneebar for the kick move but I’m not sure why - lack of lard? practicing for and doing the Oak throw move?

 

[SA Chris]

Heard his cv was doing the rounds a while back and “looked to be good to be true” (non climber comment) :lol:

Presume he’s blagged his way into corporate land. He’ll go far

LOL. Like to see that - fictional work.

 

[Yossarian]

M - Wall. Decent board session. Finally despatched main project that has proved remarkably stubborn. Got one move further on the next one, before finger split. Ticked a couple of problems downstairs that had resisted previous attempts.
T - Weighted pull-ups / assisted 1-arms. Will add / remove weight next time.
W - Yoga and stretching.
T - Wall. Quiet afternoon session. Similar to Monday, but with a bit less oomph. Ended up downstairs doing 3 sets of 6x problems in descending difficulty with v short rests. Quite hard work, though in retrospect I could prob do with getting pumped a bit more often as I’m a bit worried about route fitness slipping away.
F
S - Wall. Good board session again and then 6x6 of Thursday’s protocol. Knackered by the end.
S - Insanely tired and snoozed lots.

RH index finger PIP has been getting swollen and making weird clicking noises. Fingers in generally feel quite tweaky, so prob best to have an easier week.

Desperate to get out on some rock. Everything local is soaked. Had hoped to get out on the Friday, but forecast for the SW was abysmal. Aiming to escape coming Friday (i.e. tomorrow - originally plan was to head to Cheddar to shunt some stuff on the wave but I think it’s going to be raining. Contemplating diverting to Churnet or Peak instead, which is a major mission for a day trip without an early start, but desperate times, etc...