Power Club 501 7-13th Oct

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goals: get back to full cranking mode

M: Light core session.
T: Indoors. First proper fiddy board session in about 6 months. Felt pretty weak but at least I was able to try reasonably hard. I've really missed it.
W:
T: Indoors. Fiddy board round two. Repeated some moderates and got shut down on some harder stuff I used to be able to manage. Good session.
F:
S:
S: Light fingerboard session.

Happy to be able to climb on the board again, looking forward to trying really hard.
 
STG - Heal finger. Get boulder strong
Lose weight back 74kg.
MTG - Boulder projects.
LTG - 7C

M - Day off after weekend. Boulder shack in Southampton due to forecast. Probably did too much, mostly comp problems.

T - Necessary rest.

W - Took a gamble on Portland in the evening based on rain radar. Torrential rain as I was driving in, streets practically flooding in Easton. Had planned on boulderfield, but instead went to New Cuttings again due to shorter walk in and shelter. Crag totally dry, rain clearly blown over top.

After warm up tried Subyouth Right 7A+ and Lats, babes and bolts 7B. All essentially crimpy nightmares. Completely shut down. Could vaguely see sequence for LBB, but no where near executing. Finished by trying a 6C+, but couldn’t do that either. Bit frustrating. Think I won’t be back here until I’m lighter and with someone who knows how to climb these boulders, because I’m out of ideas.

T - Rest.

F - Rest. Didn’t need it but long day and then drive home.

S - Weighted pull ups 5x5+20kg. Should go back up on these if I’m going to do them. Or perhaps bin them and focus on fingers which are clearly weaker point.

S - Playing around on the finger board. Decided to mix it up a bit and let try something from the ‘simple’ protocol. After warm up did some of the one arm recruitment pulls (can’t hang the middle bottom BM rung one handed yet). I’m uncertain whether trying as hard as I can really does translate to pulling as hard as I can. After that did three two handed hangs on the bottom crimps, 30s, 20s, 20s. Not quite to failure. Stopped after that. Finger feeling fine but didn’t want to push it. Next time will do more, try and do longer. Will try this for a bit and then switch back to weighted shorter hangs.


Continued rain combined with a cold is effecting psych somewhat. Two days this coming week I could get out but am unlikely to. Going to try to organise a font trip for Spring to give some extra motivation kick, but do really want to have a decent try at some of my harder local projects at some point so really need to be in shape for when it finally clears up!
 
gollum said:
Sheffield Depot...
play briefly on the Moonboard and discover that I’m still not keen on it

Sorry if i haven't been payng attention but what is it you don't like about it? After using the Foundry's I was surprised at how rough some of the holds were on the Depot board, feared for my skin pulling and slapping. Not sure I'd be too enthusiastic about it if that had been my first experience of one.
 
nai said:
gollum said:
Sheffield Depot...
play briefly on the Moonboard and discover that I’m still not keen on it

Sorry if i haven't been payng attention but what is it you don't like about it? After using the Foundry's I was surprised at how rough some of the holds were on the Depot board, feared for my skin pulling and slapping. Not sure I'd be too enthusiastic about it if that had been my first experience of one.

I just find that it’s a style that doesn’t particularly suit me. I do find the holds quite rough but have only used the Moonboards at Sheffield Depor and The Climbing Lab in Leeds. Think I maybe just need to stick with it a bit.
 
I never liked the feet-follows-hands rule in the past but have accepted it's a style I'm not good at but will be good for me if I sick at it. Definite improvements after just a few sessions but I'd find it hard to use the moonboard and not the woodies at the depot.
 
Nice one Simon, psyched!

Rotation of one day at piscineta, one day in Mascun continues. Highlight this week was doing an amazing 7c+ at Piscineta called der des ders (translates as last of the last, a French ww1 thing). Incredible bouldery climbing between kneebars on pristine rough tufas on 35 degree overhanging wall. I have been really spoiled by climbing here as the rest of Rodellar feels incredibly polished by comparison. It's still great, but I definitely feel that a) it is probably a better area for those knocking out steep 8s quickly, which I am not with my current levels of bouldering power and b) it's best days may be behind it in the 7s at least. Have also tried No Limit at Surgencia but got shut down: first 10m is incredibly hard to compensate for the 10m of 6a climbing that follows.

Had two sessions on Adios Pepito, the classic Piscineta 8a. Much more my style being 40m of pure endurance without any bouldery sections. Felt impossible and very run out to start with but made some good links today and know where the knees are now so am hopeful of getting that done in the next 10 days, after which I'm off to Siurana for a bit. If not, never mind!
 
Given that you just did bat route, "boulder power" per se seems unlikely to be a limiting factor in onsighting 8a in rodellar, let alone doing them fast. More likely to be a stylistic issue - comfort on the terrain, being strong at thug etc as it sounds like your experience of harder sport is v malham focused?

May just be semantics but I just found it too weird to read to resist commenting!
 
nai said:
I never liked the feet-follows-hands rule in the past but have accepted it's a style I'm not good at but will be good for me if I sick at it. Definite improvements after just a few sessions but I'd find it hard to use the moonboard and not the woodies at the depot.

Yep, that about sums it up for me
 
(disclaimer - I've never been or seen a moonboard)

I was gently trying to persuade a local wall owner to invest in a MB and one of the reasons he wasnt so keen was that it was short... (as in few moves).

(true? Shrugs)
 
Moon boards are essentially ‘normal’ board size but have been dwarfed in recent years by the massive Beastmaker style boards like the depot examples.
 
Nice one Simon. Shame the weather is so crap that you can't carry your success onto the oak. If you don't manage to get it done how about some oak style bouldering over the winter? I guess anything steep and powerful will do. I guess you've done gorilla warfare etc.

Friday
couple of hours at the works. some how got RR to sleep in the buggy in the climbing wall. bit out of shape and cold coming on meant really ached the next day. concentrated of roofy stuff.

Summary
ribs feeling much better. But staying off one armed stuff for a little bit.
 
Power Club

Mon - some system stuff, tired. Weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, BM pockets very strong. Weights.
Thu - PE low +8 kg 30" x10, tired but did it. Weights.
Fri - weights.
Sat - rest.
Sun - weights.
 
M - nowt
T - nowt
W - no bouldering, 5 k run and quick relook at some boulders I've not been to for a while. Surrounded by gorse now, had to choose between nettles and gorse to get out, opted for nettles.
T - lunch hill reps. I hate hill reps. Necessary evil though.
F - nothing
S - climbing wall with kids in afternoon, grabbed a couple of probs between belay duties. Shoulder feeling OK, until i tried to do an awkward press problem in a corner.
S - long run in afternoon - 21 km. felt OK, only needed a brief interlude in bushes after Wagamamma curry took sudden effect....
 

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