STG - Heal finger. Get boulder strong
Lose weight back 74kg.
MTG - Boulder projects.
LTG - 7C
M - Day off after weekend. Boulder shack in Southampton due to forecast. Probably did too much, mostly comp problems.
T - Necessary rest.
W - Took a gamble on Portland in the evening based on rain radar. Torrential rain as I was driving in, streets practically flooding in Easton. Had planned on boulderfield, but instead went to New Cuttings again due to shorter walk in and shelter. Crag totally dry, rain clearly blown over top.
After warm up tried Subyouth Right 7A+ and Lats, babes and bolts 7B. All essentially crimpy nightmares. Completely shut down. Could vaguely see sequence for LBB, but no where near executing. Finished by trying a 6C+, but couldn’t do that either. Bit frustrating. Think I won’t be back here until I’m lighter and with someone who knows how to climb these boulders, because I’m out of ideas.
T - Rest.
F - Rest. Didn’t need it but long day and then drive home.
S - Weighted pull ups 5x5+20kg. Should go back up on these if I’m going to do them. Or perhaps bin them and focus on fingers which are clearly weaker point.
S - Playing around on the finger board. Decided to mix it up a bit and let try something from the ‘simple’ protocol. After warm up did some of the one arm recruitment pulls (can’t hang the middle bottom BM rung one handed yet). I’m uncertain whether trying as hard as I can really does translate to pulling as hard as I can. After that did three two handed hangs on the bottom crimps, 30s, 20s, 20s. Not quite to failure. Stopped after that. Finger feeling fine but didn’t want to push it. Next time will do more, try and do longer. Will try this for a bit and then switch back to weighted shorter hangs.
Continued rain combined with a cold is effecting psych somewhat. Two days this coming week I could get out but am unlikely to. Going to try to organise a font trip for Spring to give some extra motivation kick, but do really want to have a decent try at some of my harder local projects at some point so really need to be in shape for when it finally clears up!