Simon Lee
insect overlord #1
10.11-13 Average 153.2lbs 0.2lbs up
M
T Pulled plug on Malham trip as Oak wet. :'( Afternoon. Tor with Victor. Intermittent sunshine and showers. Only Churnet Matthew there - Blackwell refugee. Dawid turned up later with photos of his recent trip tonTatra which he reckoned had more potential than Rocklands. Warmed up but struggled on start to get traction on the pinch (glassy? me?) Got thru on 4th attempt and waltzed thru into THFML feeling fresh. Made a big effort to aim for the left of the rail on the reach and went too far! which left me overextended and my legs flew off but I almost reeled it back in but not quite. Failed to get thru the starting moves after that.
Following a dabbed ascent Victor then lived up to his name with a clean ascent.
Eve. Weighted deadhangs on Ergo Edge but well below par so stopped. Decided it was a signal that I needed a couple of rest days and an easier week
W
T
F We pulled plug on Malham again following reports from Jerome. Weighed light (151.6lbs) tipped down all morning so hardly inspiring Neverthelesd headed out at lunch time with dogs figuring at least they could get a nice run if it was crap connies. Forgot one of the pads. On arrival surprised that there were a dozen or so there inc Mic_b and Theo. Middle was dry but far right of crag was drenched with run off. Rain abated. About 10/12 degrees but felt warm.
Standard warm up: Jumping pull-ups on Weedkiller jug. Standing deadhangs on one of the crimps, THFML a couple of times, deadhang off the crimps on the kick move then kneepad on and then link kneebar rest to second kneebar (pissed kick move).
Bit of a break. Brushed, chalked and dried holds as appropriate. Squeezed some secret stuff liquid chalk on my fingers Felt greasy. Realised it was actually a tube of Elizabeth Arden moisturiser :slap: Spent a minute towelling off every last bit from my tips Almost as an afterthought set up the camera. Put it in a different place to keep it away from where the dogs were tied up so they didn’t knock it over. All the while most there were packing up and leaving and suddenly it was quiet.
Couple of jelly babies. Pulled on. Was worried that I would be weak on pinch like on Tuesday but it felt ok - pulled hips up high but not stable enough on it to walk my feet around but the cut loose and swivel was very controlled. Pulled chalk bag out of front of shorts (keep it there otherwise chalk spills everywhere) and chalked up Readjusted on kneebar reaching out to crimps foot up on the pinch dropped out of kneebar holding position with right foot turning on pinch and it started to lose traction a little quicker than I expected but reacted quick enough to stab for niche and get comfortably into second kneebar. Felt fresh. Next moves went smoothly into THFML and set up and executed final throw perfectly - glued on - just felt like I was just doing THFML. At final jugs I still felt fresh. It had been effortless.
Where was the fight? I was only warmed up. Surprised how overwhelmed I felt. All the doubts and anguish had instantly gone and the void filled with giddiness. It was meant to be ‘just training’. Who was I kidding? Hug with Theo. :hug:
Didn’t know what to do with myself. :tumble: Texted the news to family, sprayed the internet then took dogs for a walk then drove home. Bumped into Jenny H and Rob Barker in Fulwood on way back when I stopped for a paper. Hugs from them too.
S AM Victor keen for another 7C so I took him to Soul Crusher at Anston. Initially he wasn’t impressed: “visually zis is awful” but he soon got into it and pronounced that it was cool. Core and fingers much stronger than when last on it. Managed all the hard moves individually. Felt wiped when I got home.
S PM systems board warm up. AeroCap 20/10s 2secs per move. First set completed 120 moves. Second set blew out at 83 moves. Disappointing.
Been fairly hard at it now for a few weeks and felt like I was flagging on Tuesday so gave myself two rest days rest in case the Oak dried and used those days to cut back on the calories as I was in danger of creeping back over 11 stone. By Friday morning Id dropped 2lbs and was a whisker off my all time low at 10stone 11lbs (post send I’ve regained it again).
Overwhelmed with reaction on here, FB and elsewhere. Thank you everyone. :icon_beerchug:
I started on Bens in June 2014 and didn’t even get through to the first kneebar that year - my best effort being the below video. As it’s always dry, a short walk in and 30 mins drive It made far more logistical sense than the Oak as a project. Even now it could still keep giving as there are obviously various progressions and I’d like to get stuck into working it without kneebars into the original finish at some point.
Oak still wet. Think I’ll have another session on Soul Crusher on Tuesday. Definitely fits the power training brief. Need to keep the faith despite dismal weather and stay light. :whip:
5 years ago - a dozen sessions in, trying hard and still failing to get first kneebar
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m7n14emaniQ
Friday
https://youtu.be/z_BNFXPRUlo
M
T Pulled plug on Malham trip as Oak wet. :'( Afternoon. Tor with Victor. Intermittent sunshine and showers. Only Churnet Matthew there - Blackwell refugee. Dawid turned up later with photos of his recent trip tonTatra which he reckoned had more potential than Rocklands. Warmed up but struggled on start to get traction on the pinch (glassy? me?) Got thru on 4th attempt and waltzed thru into THFML feeling fresh. Made a big effort to aim for the left of the rail on the reach and went too far! which left me overextended and my legs flew off but I almost reeled it back in but not quite. Failed to get thru the starting moves after that.
Following a dabbed ascent Victor then lived up to his name with a clean ascent. Eve. Weighted deadhangs on Ergo Edge but well below par so stopped. Decided it was a signal that I needed a couple of rest days and an easier week
W
T
F We pulled plug on Malham again following reports from Jerome.
Weighed light (151.6lbs) tipped down all morning so hardly inspiring Neverthelesd headed out at lunch time with dogs figuring at least they could get a nice run if it was crap connies. Forgot one of the pads. On arrival surprised that there were a dozen or so there inc Mic_b and Theo. Middle was dry but far right of crag was drenched with run off. Rain abated. About 10/12 degrees but felt warm. Standard warm up: Jumping pull-ups on Weedkiller jug. Standing deadhangs on one of the crimps, THFML a couple of times, deadhang off the crimps on the kick move then kneepad on and then link kneebar rest to second kneebar (pissed kick move).
Bit of a break. Brushed, chalked and dried holds as appropriate. Squeezed some secret stuff liquid chalk on my fingers Felt greasy. Realised it was actually a tube of Elizabeth Arden moisturiser :slap: Spent a minute towelling off every last bit from my tips Almost as an afterthought set up the camera. Put it in a different place to keep it away from where the dogs were tied up so they didn’t knock it over. All the while most there were packing up and leaving and suddenly it was quiet.
Couple of jelly babies. Pulled on. Was worried that I would be weak on pinch like on Tuesday but it felt ok - pulled hips up high but not stable enough on it to walk my feet around but the cut loose and swivel was very controlled. Pulled chalk bag out of front of shorts (keep it there otherwise chalk spills everywhere) and chalked up Readjusted on kneebar reaching out to crimps foot up on the pinch dropped out of kneebar holding position with right foot turning on pinch and it started to lose traction a little quicker than I expected but reacted quick enough to stab for niche and get comfortably into second kneebar. Felt fresh. Next moves went smoothly into THFML and set up and executed final throw perfectly - glued on - just felt like I was just doing THFML. At final jugs I still felt fresh. It had been effortless.
Where was the fight? I was only warmed up. Surprised how overwhelmed I felt. All the doubts and anguish had instantly gone and the void filled with giddiness. It was meant to be ‘just training’. Who was I kidding? Hug with Theo. :hug:
Didn’t know what to do with myself. :tumble: Texted the news to family, sprayed the internet then took dogs for a walk then drove home. Bumped into Jenny H and Rob Barker in Fulwood on way back when I stopped for a paper. Hugs from them too.
S AM Victor keen for another 7C so I took him to Soul Crusher at Anston. Initially he wasn’t impressed: “visually zis is awful” but he soon got into it and pronounced that it was cool. Core and fingers much stronger than when last on it. Managed all the hard moves individually. Felt wiped when I got home.
S PM systems board warm up. AeroCap 20/10s 2secs per move. First set completed 120 moves. Second set blew out at 83 moves. Disappointing.
Been fairly hard at it now for a few weeks and felt like I was flagging on Tuesday so gave myself two rest days rest in case the Oak dried and used those days to cut back on the calories as I was in danger of creeping back over 11 stone. By Friday morning Id dropped 2lbs and was a whisker off my all time low at 10stone 11lbs (post send I’ve regained it again).
Overwhelmed with reaction on here, FB and elsewhere. Thank you everyone. :icon_beerchug:
I started on Bens in June 2014 and didn’t even get through to the first kneebar that year - my best effort being the below video. As it’s always dry, a short walk in and 30 mins drive It made far more logistical sense than the Oak as a project. Even now it could still keep giving as there are obviously various progressions and I’d like to get stuck into working it without kneebars into the original finish at some point.
Oak still wet. Think I’ll have another session on Soul Crusher on Tuesday. Definitely fits the power training brief. Need to keep the faith despite dismal weather and stay light. :whip:
5 years ago - a dozen sessions in, trying hard and still failing to get first kneebar
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m7n14emaniQ
Friday
https://youtu.be/z_BNFXPRUlo
