Porth Ysgo Beta Thread

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There is plenty that is climbable at high tide Luke but as for Made in Heaven - what Doylo said...

FWIW I've never happened upon the MIH block when it wasn't wet (although it's not like I'm there every week more's the pity...)
 
The Born in Gateshead crack start to Made in Heaven often seeps, but the stand up version can normally be done even if there is some seepage as it is less crucial. It is tidal though, although not that much (I'm sure it would be climbable an hour or two after high tide, especially if you have a towel to dry the footholds on the start). The nearby Thagomizer block is really good and is unaffected by the sea unless there is a massive storm. There is loads to do at Ysgo outside of the tidal zone. And as others have said you could always go to Clwt y Fiaren - there's some brilliant problems there:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=697
(follow the links at the bottom of the news item for more info.)

This weekend should be good conditions - plenty of wind and falling temperatures from today's high will mean fast drying rocks and no 'sweating/condensation' issues. It should be mint. Sunday looks like being the best day - I'll probably end up down there somewhere on that day.
 
Pantontino said:
The Born in Gateshead crack start to Made in Heaven often seeps, but the stand up version can normally be done even if there is some seepage as it is less crucial. It is tidal though, although not that much (I'm sure it would be climbable an hour or two after high tide, especially if you have a towel to dry the footholds on the start). The nearby Thagomizer block is really good and is unaffected by the sea unless there is a massive storm. There is loads to do at Ysgo outside of the tidal zone. And as others have said you could always go to Clwt y Fiaren - there's some brilliant problems there:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=697
(follow the links at the bottom of the news item for more info.)

This weekend should be good conditions - plenty of wind and falling temperatures from today's high will mean fast drying rocks and no 'sweating/condensation' issues. It should be mint. Sunday looks like being the best day - I'll probably end up down there somewhere on that day.

Cheers Si, really helpful thanks! Porth Nefoedd looks great too, think I'll need someone in the know to give me a tour there soon.

I didn't end up making it to Ysgo that weekend due to a house DIY emergency but went yesterday and had the worst day ever...

On the drive down the weather looked the best I've seen it on the way, when we got to the beach everything was soaked. Even with intermittent sun we waited there for 2 hours and nothing dryed and the odd shower didn't help. There was wind up top but none on the beach so I'm guessing that was the issue.

Any idea on what's the best wind direction/speed to look out for when heading down there next? I need to redeem the 5 hour round trip ASAP :(

Cheers
 
Sorry to hear about the wasted journey.

I guess northerlies aren't so good as they will tend to blow over the top. It must have rained just before you got there as I don't think there was a rising temperature on Saturday (it was certainly cold at my house). I'm genuinely surprised the boulders still remained wet after 2 hours.

I guess it doesn't help to know that Doylo and crew had good conditions the day before at Porth Nefoedd. Or that in all the years I've been bouldering down there I can only recall the odd day when the rock was too wet to climb (I did meet Andy Swann walking out once looking very dismayed given that he'd travelled a significant distance to get there only to find damp rock).

Thinking about the wind direction - a strong onshore south westerly can mess things up too, blowing too much spray into the boulder field.

One other thought: were the rocks around the Mynydd y Graig escarpment (Rhiw) not dry? Clwt y Fiaren for example is well exposed to the wind. We once rescued a sea level session (massive waves and too much spray) by going here.
 
Pantontino said:
Sorry to hear about the wasted journey.

I guess northerlies aren't so good as they will tend to blow over the top. It must have rained just before you got there as I don't think there was a rising temperature on Saturday (it was certainly cold at my house). I'm genuinely surprised the boulders still remained wet after 2 hours.

I guess it doesn't help to know that Doylo and crew had good conditions the day before at Porth Nefoedd. Or that in all the years I've been bouldering down there I can only recall the odd day when the rock was too wet to climb (I did meet Andy Swann walking out once looking very dismayed given that he'd travelled a significant distance to get there only to find damp rock).

Thinking about the wind direction - a strong onshore south westerly can mess things up too, blowing too much spray into the boulder field.

One other thought: were the rocks around the Mynydd y Graig escarpment (Rhiw) not dry? Clwt y Fiaren for example is well exposed to the wind. We once rescued a sea level session (massive waves and too much spray) by going here.

I think we were just very unlucky. I've never known anyone not being able to climb anything. Every problem I checked out out was wet, the worst part of it was we actually went to the boulders stayed for a couple of hours, walked back to the car and the sun was shining so much by then it looked promising. We walked back down then it hammered down!

Mynydd y Graig was in my mind but it was one of them thing's "I'm sure it'll dry here soon, let's sit and wait" and as I said by the end of the long wait it was raining...

Doylo said:
The norm is to drive through torrential rain to find a glorious Lleyn not the other way round . ;)

Haha, that's the weird thing. It was very sunny on the Lleyn inland!
 
If anyone's in the vicinity a broadly Scouse contingent will be hitting the Rhiw hillside on Saturday and Ysgo/Talfarach Sunday in honour of some twat's birthday... :weakbench:
 
fatneck said:
If anyone's in the vicinity a broadly Scouse contingent will be hitting the Rhiw hillside on Saturday and Ysgo/Talfarach Sunday in honour of some twat's birthday... :weakbench:

I'm keen, I'll be keeping a very close eye on the weather this time though! I was thinking of Ysgo on Saturday, weather looks a bit ropey for Sunday but the forecast will probably be wrong anyway...
 
Really excited about visiting here tomorrow for the first time. Does anyone have any good knowledge of where we can doss in our van overnight? Cheers!
 
scottygillery said:
Really excited about visiting here tomorrow for the first time. Does anyone have any good knowledge of where we can doss in our van overnight? Cheers!

Should be great conditions there tomorrow, have fun! As far as dossing I'm not too sure but the parking place by the stream (Not the one on the farm) could be OK? I'm not sure it would cause any problem. Other than that there's plenty of lanes around there.
 
This may be too late but I'd avoid staying at the parking spot over night, seem to remember this caused problems in the past. Also there was a new painted notice on the fence by the parking saying "No Camping" when we were there the other week so this may indicate people have been trying to camp there again recently?

Not very helpful I know... You could try the car park in Llanbedrog?
 
Thank you for the advice! We stayed about 20mins up the road in a quiet layby. What a great place Porth Ysgo is!! We had an amazing day :2thumbsup:
 
Hi JK - there's a campsite at the Rhiw end of Hell's Mouth beach - cool spot just above the beach and about 5 mins drive to Porth Ysgo parking (even closer to the Clwt y Fiaren, Porth Nefoedd and Talfarach parking areas). You could also camp just outside Aberdaron for better pub access - similar distance beyond Porth Ysgo and there are quite a few campsites. I wouldn't bother booking - just show up and you'll get somewhere. For details about the other areas check out www.northwalesbouldering.com and search back for info.
 

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