Pinch Test Rubicon

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simon40

Sport climber, too weak to boulder
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
115
Location
buxton
Hi
Strangish question but how hard in Pinch Test compared with others such as Sissy and those to the right of Caviar
Cheers
 
Pinch test is one / two really hard moves so is difficult to grade. I thought it was easier to red point then the sissy / dangerous brothers / tribes. But those 2 moves were significantly harder than any moves on the other routes. So imo easier but I could full understand anyone that found it harder
 
Haydn mentioned this in a thread about another route
haydn jones said:
That sounds exactly like the pinch test at water cum jolly which is 7c+ and definitely not 8a
when replying to
jwi said:
remus said:
jwi said:
I know nothing, but I do know that no 7c+ has a 7B boulder on top

llEHSeh.png


;)

Hahaha. I would give it 8a.
 
I was with Zippy when he did this and it was definitely giving 7c+ and shown as such in two previous guide books so someone has tinkered with the grade. Anyway I did in jest suggest he grade it VS 7a to reflect how unbalanced it is.
 
I thought this was a great little sequence. Much easier than the Sissy and pleasant holds by Rubicon standards. Felt like a knacky font 7B so more likely 7c+ than 8a, but the holds are quite slopey and conditions dependant

My sequence was similar to Ted's in this vid. But from the LH gastony-crimp (at 1.06 in vid) rather than go again with LH to the crimpy rail (my RH would ping off the pinch) I got my RF on the break, flicked RH to small bobbly undercut, then went LH to the rail

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCTBA_8zKSA
 

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